Ablative Dark Blue Boat Bottom Paint

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Dark Blue Fiberglass Bottomkote ACT Antifouling Paint, Gallon - Interlux
    ACT uses Ablative Technology to provide excellent season-to-season protection. Ablative Technology enables it to erode away with use and eliminates …
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    Boating Know How
    Anti fouling paint

    Interlux Fiberglass Bottomkote NT Antifouling Paint (Video)

    See a presentation on Interlux fiberglass Bottomkote NT antifouling paint presented by Interlux. ... read more



    Video Transcript

    Matt: Hi, I’m Matt Anzaro with Interlux Shop Finishes and we’re here today at Brewers Sakonnet Marina here in Portsmouth, Rhode Island, and today, we’re going to be conducting the Fiberglass Bottomkote NT challenge. Before we talk about the challenge, let’s talk about the new product. Fiberglass Bottomkote New Technology or NT, utilizes the latest in anti-fouling technology.

    By formulating a product using two premier resins our dual resin technology, we’re able to provide the benefits of a traditional hard paint along with the added benefits of an ablative paint.

    So what are these benefits? The benefits are slow polishing rate for optimal performance. It also has a durable, smooth surface optimizing speed. Super fast resin which allows you to paint and launch the same day. A smart copper release system with all the performance without the excess copper, and it has a reduction in paint build-up over time. Fiberglass Bottomkote NT offers all these benefits and comes in multiple colors and sizes all at a great price.

    What is the Fiberglass Bottomkote NT challenge? Well it’s a way to show how during application, that the Fiberglass Bottomkote NT will actually go further than the leading competitor product, which we’ll be calling Product X.

    Now I’m joined by Dave Rodericks, and he’s the yard manager here at Brewers Sakonnet, and he and his crew are going to help us paint this boat with doing the NT challenge. And so Dave, can you tell us a little bit about the boat?

    Dave: What we have is a Wellcraft V-20 step lift. It’s 20 feet long, typically it should use probably two or three quarts of paint, but we’ll see what happens.

    Matt: Okay.

    Speaker 1: Twenty-Four?

    Matt: Twenty-four. So what we’re doing with the NT challenge is we’re going to split the boat down the centerline, and on the port-side we’re going to be painting the Fiberglass Bottomkote NT, and on the starboard side, we’re going to be painting on the Product X. See which one goes further. We’re going to be using the same rollers. A three-eighths snap roller for both applications.

    What I’m doing now is checking the film build on this, and we’re getting about five to six mils wet which is where we want it recommended. Generally we recommend about four or so. You can go a little lighter if you wanted to.

    New Technology. He’s putting on four mils wet still, still putting on at four mils.

    Speaker 1: Really?

    Matt: Yeah.

    Speaker 1: Huh. Might want to try this.

    Matt: Okay. Let me try this still four mils because I think all we need is one more ounce to be honest.

    Speaker 1: I’m probably going to finish it all.

    Matt: Alright. What we got now is we painted the port-side with the Fiberglass Bottomkote NT and it took 25 ounces to paint the boat. So now we’re going to use Product X and paint the starboard side.

    This is Brand X and what we’re going to do is we’re going to mix it up. We’re going to pour out 25 ounces and we’re going to be painting the starboard side with this and see how far this goes.

    Speaker 1: This one’s really thick.

    Matt: What he started out with NT is already dry to the touch. It’s about a half hour since we painted this section. We’re using the same rollers – a three-eighth snap roller for both applications. We’re going to check the film build on this as well, and what we’re seeing is four mils wet.

    Dave is still putting it on at about four to five mils which is again per manufacturer recommendations, but he’s all out of paint at this point in time. So what we have here is that the Fiberglass Bottomkote 25 ounces painted the entire side where the Product X left about a third of the boat unpainted.

    What we’ve done is we obviously have more boat to paint so we have to get some more paint. We’re going to add another seven ounces and that will be a total of 32 ounces for this side. First is 25 on the Fiberglass Bottomkote NT.

    We’ve added another seven ounces to the tray here to finish up painting the starboard side with Product X, so it’s a total of 32 ounces that we’re going to be using for the starboard side with Product X and 25 ounces for the Fiberglass Bottomkote NT.

    So Dave, what does this mean for you?

    Dave: Well from an applicator’s point of view, it’s going to be savings, obviously, material-wise for customers. The fact that we can launch the boat the same day we paint it is also a substantial goal for us as far as saving time and getting our customer’s boats in the water.

    Matt: So what we found now with the Fiberglass Bottomkote NT challenge is that the Fiberglass Bottomkote NT took 25 ounces to paint the portside of this 20 foot Wellcraft. And Product X, it took 32 ounces still wet as well. The Fiberglass Bottomkote NT gives you 20% more product in that can than Product X. So it gives you better performance, it goes further, and you’re able to paint and launch in the same day. More time to go boating. All at a great price.

    I’d like to say thanks to Dave and his guys here at Sakonnet Marina and if you’d like more information about Fiberglass Bottomkote NT, or other Interlux products, please go to our website at yachtpaint.com, and remember, your bottom leads the way, so make sure it’s Interlock on your boat.

    Thank you and have a great day!
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    Interlux Antifouling Paint

    Selecting Antifouling Paint

    Antifouling paint is a paint coating that is applied to the hull of a vessel that fights off the growth of organisms that could attach to the hull, thus prolonging the hull's life and performance. Antifouling paints are ... read more made of copper biocides that help to keep organisms like barnacles, seaweed, and tube worms from sticking to the hull. It is better to use antifouling paint to prevent this happening instead of trying to find a cure once the hull has been attacked.

    Selecting an antifouling paint comes down to the boater's preference and the hull style of their boat. There are three main antifouling paint styles to choose from:

    1. Ablative

    This type of antifouling paint is very basic in its specifications. It is good for build-up resistance and does not require little to no sanding. It is compatible with a majority of hulls and bottom paint finishes. With this application, the surface of the hull may be susceptible to wear away with time, which exposes fresh biocides and may be harmful to water life. This may be best for freshwater applications.

    2. Hard

    Hard antifouling paint is a much stronger, more durable antifouling paint that allows boats to be stored in the water for extended periods of time and be protected by the biocides. The coat leaves a fine, smooth finish and can withstand beaching and abuse.

    3. Vivid

    Vivid antifouling paint is the toughest, most durable of these three applications. It is made with high-quality technology that lasts through any season and is excellent for trailering and dry storage. It is highly resistant to build-up and decay on the hull, and comes in a variety of colors. Vivid paint would work well in salt water environments.

    We recommend researching these different paint types in depth and deeply considering each option before making any purchases. We also suggest consulting with a technician or a local dealer to get a second opinion and recommendation.

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    boat paint electrolysis

    Electrolysis and Boat Paint (Video)

    Coating the bottom of the boat to avoid electrolysis. Presented by Interlux. ... read more



    Video Transcript

    I'm Jim Seidel from Interlux. We're here in a boatyard looking around talking about problems people have painting the bottoms of their boat.

    Actually, this boat is fairly clean on the bottom and we get a lot of calls every fall about, "The bottom of my boat looks really good. There are no barnacles on it but all the metals are felt. How come that happens? I use the same paint on boat."

    The reason is you get electrolysis between the copper and the antifouling paint. In this case, it's stainless. Underneath, it's bronze. And the first thing you go, because the copper is less noble than the stainless or the bronze, the first metal to be eaten away is the copper.

    I prefer the Interprotect because it's harder, it's going to last longer, and give you a better job. Plus, it's easier. It sticks to the metal better by itself.

    With the Primocon, it's easier to use. It's one part product, you open the can, and brush it on but it's a lot more preparation on the metal. You have to get the metal much cleaner and you probably need three coats of the Primocon equal two of the Interprotect.
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    boat bottom paint

    Boat Bottom Paint - Mix your Own Colors (Video)

    Learn how to mix your own boat bottom paint from different colors, presented by Interlux. ... read more



    Video Transcript

    I’m Jim Seidel from Interlux. We’re here in a boatyard looking around, talking about problems that people have painting the bottoms of their boat.

    I want to show you this boat. Love the color of the anti-fouling paint. The owner could not find the color he wanted, so we mixed Micron 66 Green with one-quart of Micron 66 Black, probably in a three to one ratio to get this nice color Dark Green. Looks really good with the paint, with the stripe, and the Awlcraft 2000 on top.

    Pretty boat. Very pretty boat.
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    boat bottom paint ablative paints

    Ablative Paints and How They Work (Video)

    Learn what ablative paints are and how they work, presented by Interlux. ... read more



    Video Transcript

    I’m Jim Seidel from Interlux. We’re here in a boatyard looking around, talking about problems people have painting the bottoms of their boat.

    Okay, this is a brand new paint job. It’s probably painted last week, maybe even Saturday, and then it rained, we got a lot of rain, and you could see it streaking down the boat. It’s very typical of ablative anti-fouling paint. This does not affect the way the anti-fouling works. It’s just not pretty, especially if you put on a two-hundred dollar gallon of paint.

    Right now, it looks bad because it’s right here and you just did, and you spent a couple hours painting the bottom of the boat and getting it all prepared, spending a day, but that’s what caused it, and that’s one of the things about ablative paints. They do change color.

    Ablative means “to wear away” and there’s a bunch of different ways paints wear away like our old red hand or that type of paint we painted the arc with as with real soft rosin-based coating’s been around. You could shake the boat and get a cloud of paint around the boat. It was very, very soft.

    Then we have the top of the line, the Micron 66 that wears away chemically with the reaction of salt in the water. The Micron CSC and the Micron Extra, there’s a physical action of wearing through the water and they act the same way. You do that, you control that by the mixing of a rosin and resin and rosin is less expensive than resin, so if you want a cheaper paint, you put more rosin than resin, but it wears away faster.
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    About Ablative Dark Blue Boat Bottom Paint

    Boat Bottom Paint Essentials

    Article courtesy of Tim Banse
    Interlux Product
    You already know that without bottom paint dutifully protecting the bottom of a boat that barnacles, zebra mussels, weeds and slime would proliferate dragging down acceleration, top speed and helm response. And that in order to inhibit marine growth we rely on quality boat bottom paint. But the big question is with the different types of anti-fouling lining the shelves of marine chandler's which one is the best choice for your boat? The answer is that in order to sort through the many offerings, it's vital to understand the basic differences between them. Only then can you intelligently pick the right product for your boat and its geographic area of operation. In this story we'll cover the basics and suggest a couple of boat bottom paints. Unfortunately there isn't room to cover the myriad of brands and offerings.

    Types of Bottom Paint


    Let's begin at the beginning. Know that there are two basics types: ablative and hard, each one boasting distinctive properties. Soft ablative boat bottom paints release biocide at a constant rate throughout their life span, scrubbed away with use much like a bar of soap. One benefit to this scrubbing action is that as the biocide is used up the coat goes away. This characteristic reduces buildup, which in turn reduces the amount of surface preparation required before applying a new coat.

    Pettit Marine Paint's Ultima SR-60 is an example of ablative boat bottom paint. It's loaded with copper (60%) and also dual biocides (slime resistant Irgarol) lending multi season protection.

    Pettit Boat Bottom Paint
    In sharp contrast to ablative blends, hard bottom paints rely on contact leaching. Once it dries, the bottom is blanketed with a porous film saturated with biocides. The biocide releases in steadily decreasing amounts. Once exhausted, the hard film remains. Generally speaking, boats with hard anti-fouling coatings cannot be hauled and launched without repainting. One benefit to a hard anti-fouling coat is resistance to abrasion. Due to its low drag resistance, hard bottom products are an excellent choice for high performance boats.

    Another offering is Pettit Trinidad SR, it's a hard anti-fouling blend offering multi-season protection thanks to dual biocides backed up with a high copper load. Left in the water, a bottom painted with Trinidad SR will enjoy years of protection.

    So far we've given examples of ablative and hard boat bottom paints. How about one that incorporates all the benefits of both ablative and hard paints in one? That would be Pettit's multi-season Vivid offered in a palette of bright colors, including white, blue, green, yellow black and red.

    Think whiter whites and blacker blacks. Primary colors can be applied as-is, or blended to create a custom color. Its hard, smooth surface withstands trailering and is easily burnished for lower drag, a godsend on high performance boats. When applied over the recommended priming system Vivid can be used on aluminum hulls and outdrives.

    Blue Water Product
    No matter what type or brand you decide on, it's crucial to painstakingly follow directions. Read the label, paying careful attention to the part about surface preparation. At a minimum the existing antifouling paint, which provides the foundation, must be in good condition - without flakes. Sand the entire bottom with 60 or 80-grit sandpaper, roughening the surface and lending the new coat a foothold. Question: Is this dirty, time-consuming surface preparation a Do-It-Yourself endeavor? Not if you can afford to pay the boatyard to do it.

    Do It Right The First Time


    Make sure the old anti-fouling and the new bottom paint are compatible. Consult the manufacturers chart. Thoroughly stir paint before and during application. Usually, the store will perform an initial shake-shake-shake with its shaker. For good reason marine supply stores will only shake cans that have never been opened. That said, even when you stir by hand with a flat wooden stick, five or 10 minutes should be sufficient to get all the biocide in suspension. The first few strokes with the stick will be difficult because the heavy compounds settle to the bottom. Be patient. And be sure to scrape down the sides of the can and the bottom to flow all of the ingredients into suspension. Stir the paint frequently during application to prevent settling.

    It's absolutely critical that you follow over-coating times and immersion times. In other words, allow the product to dry thoroughly before applying another coat and before launching. If you don't, you risk the specter detaching from the hull, and all the time, energy and money you'll have spent will have been wasted. Finally, when finished, dispose of the empty cans in an environmentally friendly manner. If you're in doubt about how to do this, any boatyard will be able to tell you the proper procedure.

    Tim Banse is a marine engines expert and has written about propulsion for Popular Mechanics, Yachting, Motor Boating, Boating Industry and other publications around the world. His current pet project is www.MarineEngineDigest.com, a source for free information about outboard motors, stern drives and inboards. Tim's articles will be seen here and in the iboats.com blog, plus at www.MarineEngineDigest.com.