Bronze Boat Bottom Paint

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Copper Bronze, Quart - Pettit (Kop Coat) - Pettit Paint
Features: Cuprous oxide for agressive antifouling protection Hard, modified epoxy finish withstands season-long use and abuse Compatible with most …
List price: $106.59
Only $81.47
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Copper Bronze Hard Racing (Pettit)
Features: For dry sailed boats or boats stored in non-fouling fresh water. Can be buffed to give a high gloss, ultra smooth surface. Suitable for …
List price: $82.29
Only $68.82
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Fiberglass Bottomkote&reg;</Sup> Racing Bronze (Interlux)
Fiberglass Bottomkote® Racing Bronze provides season long protection against fouling organisms. Fiberglass Bottomkote Racing Bronze uses an …
List price: $200.99
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$119.50
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Boating Know How
Interlux Antifouling Paint

Selecting Antifouling Paint

Anti-fouling paint is a paint coating that is applied to the hull of a vessel that fights off the growth of organisms that could attach to the hull, thus prolonging the hull's life and performance. Anti-fouling paints are ... read more made of copper biocides that help to keep organisms like barnacles, seaweed, and tube worms from sticking to the hull. It is better to use paint to prevent this happening instead of trying to find a cure once the hull has been attacked.

Selecting an antifouling paint comes down to the boater's preference and the hull style of their boat. There are three main paint styles to choose from:

1. Ablative

This type of antifouling paint is very basic in its specifications. It is good for build-up resistance and does not require little to no sanding. It is compatible with a majority of hulls and bottom paint finishes. With this application, the surface of the hull may be susceptible to wear away with time, which exposes fresh biocides and may be harmful to water life. This may be best for freshwater applications.

2. Hard

Hard antifouling paint is a much stronger, more durable paint that allows boats to be stored in the water for extended periods of time and be protected by the biocides. The coat leaves a fine, smooth finish and can withstand beaching and abuse.

3. Vivid

Vivid antifouling paint is the toughest, most durable of these three applications. It is made with high-quality technology that lasts through any season and is excellent for trailering and dry storage. It is highly resistant to build-up and decay on the hull, and comes in a variety of colors. Vivid paint would work well in salt water environments.

We recommend researching these different paint types in depth and deeply considering each option before making any purchases. We also suggest consulting with a technician or a local dealer to get a second opinion and recommendation.

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boat paint electrolysis

Electrolysis and Boat Paint (Video)

Coating the bottom of the boat to avoid electrolysis. Presented by Interlux. ... read more



Video Transcript

I'm Jim Seidel from Interlux. We're here in a boatyard looking around talking about problems people have painting the bottoms of their boat.

Actually, this boat is fairly clean on the bottom and we get a lot of calls every fall about, "The bottom of my boat looks really good. There are no barnacles on it but all the metals are felt. How come that happens? I use the same paint on boat."

The reason is you get electrolysis between the copper and the paint. In this case, it's stainless. Underneath, it's bronze. And the first thing you go, because the copper is less noble than the stainless or the bronze, the first metal to be eaten away is the copper.

I prefer the Interprotect because it's harder, it's going to last longer, and give you a better job. Plus, it's easier. It sticks to the metal better by itself.

With the Primocon, it's easier to use. It's one part product, you open the can, and brush it on but it's a lot more preparation on the metal. You have to get the metal much cleaner and you probably need three coats of the Primocon equal two of the Interprotect.
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boat bottom paint

Boat Bottom Paint - Mix your Own Colors (Video)

Learn how to mix your own boat bottom paint from different colors, presented by Interlux. ... read more



Video Transcript

I’m Jim Seidel from Interlux. We’re here in a boatyard looking around, talking about problems that people have painting the bottoms of their boat.

I want to show you this boat. Love the color of the anti-fouling paint. The owner could not find the color he wanted, so we mixed Micron 66 Green with one-quart of Micron 66 Black, probably in a three to one ratio to get this nice color Dark Green. Looks really good with the paint, with the stripe, and the Awlcraft 2000 on top.

Pretty boat. Very pretty boat.
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boat bottom paint ablative paints

Ablative Paints and How They Work (Video)

Learn what ablative paints are and how they work, presented by Interlux. ... read more



Video Transcript

I’m Jim Seidel from Interlux. We’re here in a boatyard looking around, talking about problems people have painting the bottoms of their boat.

Okay, this is a brand new paint job. It’s probably painted last week, maybe even Saturday, and then it rained, we got a lot of rain, and you could see it streaking down the boat. It’s very typical of ablative anti-fouling paint. This does not affect the way the anti-fouling works. It’s just not pretty, especially if you put on a two-hundred dollar gallon of paint.

Right now, it looks bad because it’s right here and you just did, and you spent a couple hours painting the bottom of the boat and getting it all prepared, spending a day, but that’s what caused it, and that’s one of the things about ablative paints. They do change color.

Ablative means “to wear away” and there’s a bunch of different ways paints wear away like our old red hand or that type of paint we painted the arc with as with real soft rosin-based coating’s been around. You could shake the boat and get a cloud of paint around the boat. It was very, very soft.

Then we have the top of the line, the Micron 66 that wears away chemically with the reaction of salt in the water. The Micron CSC and the Micron Extra, there’s a physical action of wearing through the water and they act the same way. You do that, you control that by the mixing of a rosin and resin and rosin is less expensive than resin, so if you want a cheaper paint, you put more rosin than resin, but it wears away faster.
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fouled boat paint

How to Treat a Fouled Hull

Learn how to treat a fouled hull, presented by Interlux. ... read more



Video Transcript

I’m Jim Seidel from Interlux. We’re here in a boatyard, looking around, talking about problems that people have painting the bottoms of their boats.

We walked by this boat. We thought this was kind of interesting because this part of the boat is fouled and nothing else is. There is a little bit of fouling. Why would that happen?

Well, my guess is that this is where they started the paint, and as they walked around the boat, they got more copper in the paint because this side’s got nothing on it. This is, you know, you really want to stir the paint up. Copper is fairly heavy. It settles to the bottom and you want to stir it up and make sure it’s uniform all the way through the gallon. You could put it on shaker for a little while, but really, stirring is the best way to make sure all the copper is up off the bottom and uniform throughout.
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antifouling paint for boat bottoms

Question About AntiFouling Paint?

Learn what anti-fouling paint is correct for your boat, presented by Interlux. ... read more



Video Transcript

Speaker 1: Hey excuse me. Can I ask a question?

Speaker 2:Yeah, sure. What do you need?

Elenor Ekman: One of the worst things you can ever do for your boat is to ask your neighbour what bottom paint they’re using and then apply that same product to your boat. That’s a big “no-no” guys. Hi, I’m Elenor Ekman from Interlux.

Nobody wants barnacles, grass, or any type of growth on the bottom of the boat. It’s ugly and more importantly, fouling destroys fuel economy. So how do you get the right information on all the choices of anti-fouling available? Simple. Just ask us, the true experts, so we can ask you a couple of key questions in return.

Like, what’s currently on your boat? Who made it? Is it a hard, conventional type of bottom paint, or is it a softer, ablative that wears away over time? Is it a felt-polishing copolymer? What’s the water temperature where the boat is kept? Is fuel consumption a major concern?

So, how do we communicate? Well it’s easy. Come and see us face-to-face at any major boat show, or if you need immediate answers, visit our website: yachtpaint.com. While you’re there, check out the industry’s only interactive forum for questions on fouling and paints.
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painting boat bottom running gear

Painting Boat Bottom Running Gear

Learn how to paint your boat bottom running gear properly, presented by Interlux. ... read more



Video Transcript

Hi. I’m Scott with Interlux. We’re here at Charleston City boatyard. Today we’re going to be talking about the most important part on your boat, running gear.

There are three steps to a successful system. Make sure that the metal is clean and rough. Next, apply two to three coats of InterProtect High Solids. It’s fortified with anti-corrosive pigments and it has micro-plate technology for long lasting performance. Finally, request Micron CF. It’s a potent, strong, long-lasting paint. It’s available in a wide range of colors, and it’s safe to put on all areas of the bottom of your boat.

If you’re tired to pay to have your running gear scraped and cleaned, do it right the first time. It will save you money in the long run and your boat will always be ready to go.

On your next haul out, request Interlux products to protect your investment, and you can also visit our website at yachtpaint.com for additional information.
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About Bronze Boat Bottom Paint

Boat Bottom Paint Essentials

Article courtesy of Tim Banse
Interlux Product
You already know that without bottom paint dutifully protecting the bottom of a boat that barnacles, zebra mussels, weeds and slime would proliferate dragging down acceleration, top speed and helm response. And that in order to inhibit marine growth we rely on quality boat bottom paint. But the big question is with the different types of anti-fouling lining the shelves of marine chandler's which one is the best choice for your boat? The answer is that in order to sort through the many offerings, it's vital to understand the basic differences between them. Only then can you intelligently pick the right product for your boat and its geographic area of operation. In this story we'll cover the basics and suggest a couple of boat bottom paints. Unfortunately there isn't room to cover the myriad of brands and offerings.

Types of Bottom Paint


Let's begin at the beginning. Know that there are two basics types: ablative and hard, each one boasting distinctive properties. Soft ablative boat bottom paints release biocide at a constant rate throughout their life span, scrubbed away with use much like a bar of soap. One benefit to this scrubbing action is that as the biocide is used up the coat goes away. This characteristic reduces buildup, which in turn reduces the amount of surface preparation required before applying a new coat.

Pettit Marine Paint's Ultima SR-60 is an example of ablative boat bottom paint. It's loaded with copper (60%) and also dual biocides (slime resistant Irgarol) lending multi season protection.

Pettit Boat Bottom Paint
In sharp contrast to ablative blends, hard bottom paints rely on contact leaching. Once it dries, the bottom is blanketed with a porous film saturated with biocides. The biocide releases in steadily decreasing amounts. Once exhausted, the hard film remains. Generally speaking, boats with hard anti-fouling coatings cannot be hauled and launched without repainting. One benefit to a hard anti-fouling coat is resistance to abrasion. Due to its low drag resistance, hard bottom products are an excellent choice for high performance boats.

Another offering is Pettit Trinidad SR, it's a hard anti-fouling blend offering multi-season protection thanks to dual biocides backed up with a high copper load. Left in the water, a bottom painted with Trinidad SR will enjoy years of protection.

So far we've given examples of ablative and hard boat bottom paints. How about one that incorporates all the benefits of both ablative and hard paints in one? That would be Pettit's multi-season Vivid offered in a palette of bright colors, including white, blue, green, yellow black and red.

Think whiter whites and blacker blacks. Primary colors can be applied as-is, or blended to create a custom color. Its hard, smooth surface withstands trailering and is easily burnished for lower drag, a godsend on high performance boats. When applied over the recommended priming system Vivid can be used on aluminum hulls and outdrives.

Blue Water Product
No matter what type or brand you decide on, it's crucial to painstakingly follow directions. Read the label, paying careful attention to the part about surface preparation. At a minimum the existing paint, which provides the foundation, must be in good condition - without flakes. Sand the entire bottom with 60 or 80-grit sandpaper, roughening the surface and lending the new coat a foothold. Question: Is this dirty, time-consuming surface preparation a Do-It-Yourself endeavor? Not if you can afford to pay the boatyard to do it.

Do It Right The First Time


Make sure the old anti-fouling and the new bottom paint are compatible. Consult the manufacturers chart. Thoroughly stir paint before and during application. Usually, the store will perform an initial shake-shake-shake with its shaker. For good reason marine supply stores will only shake cans that have never been opened. That said, even when you stir by hand with a flat wooden stick, five or 10 minutes should be sufficient to get all the biocide in suspension. The first few strokes with the stick will be difficult because the heavy compounds settle to the bottom. Be patient. And be sure to scrape down the sides of the can and the bottom to flow all of the ingredients into suspension. Stir the paint frequently during application to prevent settling.

It's absolutely critical that you follow over-coating times and immersion times. In other words, allow the product to dry thoroughly before applying another coat and before launching. If you don't, you risk the specter detaching from the hull, and all the time, energy and money you'll have spent will have been wasted. Finally, when finished, dispose of the empty cans in an environmentally friendly manner. If you're in doubt about how to do this, any boatyard will be able to tell you the proper procedure.

Tim Banse is a marine engines expert and has written about propulsion for Popular Mechanics, Yachting, Motor Boating, Boating Industry and other publications around the world. His current pet project is www.MarineEngineDigest.com, a source for free information about outboard motors, stern drives and inboards. Tim's articles will be seen here and in the iboats.com blog, plus at www.MarineEngineDigest.com.