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Honda Outboard Parts

1997 and earlier
1997
1998
1999
2000
2001
2002
2003
2004
2005
2006
2007 and later
2 HP
2.3 HP
5 HP
7.5 HP
8 HP
9.9 HP
10 HP
15 HP
20 HP
25 HP
30 HP
35 HP
40 HP
45 HP
50 HP
60 HP
75 HP
90 HP
115 HP
130 HP
135 HP
150 HP
175 HP
200 HP
225 HP
250 HP

Honda Serial Number Year Lookup Outboard Year Help


Honda outboard model numbers are set up in the following formats:

Example: BF2D1SCHA = Honda, 2HP, 2001 Model, 15", Centrifugal Clutch w/ Throttle Grip, USA
Example: BFP5DXLHSA = Honda, High Thrust Prop, 5HP, 1999 Model, 20", Throttle Grip, Electric Start, USA
Example: BF25A3LRTA = Honda, 25HP, 2003 Model, 20", Remote Control, Tilt & Trim, USA

Prefix HP Model Year Shaft* Steering System Starter (BF2-20)
Tilt and Trim (BF25-225)
Market
BF = Honda;
Standard prop

BFP = Honda;
High Thrust prop
(5-20 hp only)
EX:
2
5
8
9.9
15
20
25
30
35
40
45
50
75
90
115
130
135
150
200
225
BF2 - 20
DM = 1997
DT = 1997
DW = 1998
DX = 1999
DY = 2000
D1 = 2001
D2 = 2002
D3 = 2003
D4 = 2004
D5 = 2005
D6 = 2006
DK = 2007 ~

BF25 - 225
AM = 1997
AT = 1997
AW = 1998
AX = 1999
AY = 2000
A1 = 2001
A2 = 2002
A3 = 2003
A4 = 2004
A5 = 2005
A6 = 2006
AK = 2007~
S = 15"
L = 20"
XL = 25"
X = 25"
XX = 30"

C*
C = Centrifugal Clutch

R = Remote Control

H =
  • (BF2-20)
    Throttle Grip
  • (BF25-225)
    Tiller Handle
BF2-20 (starter)
  • Blank = Manual
  • S = Electric
  • T = Electric
    with power tilt
BF25-225 (tilt and trim)
  • Blank = Manual Tilt
  • T = Tilt and Trim
  • J = Jet Drive
A=USA
*NOTE: C after the length may indicate counter rotation
Categories
Boating Know How
flushing your honda outboard motor

How to Properly Flush your Honda Outboard

Learn how to properly flush your Honda Outboard Motor, presented by Team Honda Marine. ... read more



Video Transcript

So here we are, we spent a day in salt water in our Boab boat. It’s important now to wash all of the salt from the exterior of the boat and the exterior of the engine. But more importantly what we need to do is flush the cooling system. And the reason we flush the cooling system is that modern-day outboard engines and outboard engines in general draw water from the lake, from the sea and circulate that water around the power head through the cooling chambers and use that water to cool down the engine. So it’s important now that we have stopped the boat to wash out that saltwater because over time that salt could crystallize and could start blocking the cooling system passages.

And the way in which we do that, I’ll just put this hose down. Then we use a flushing attachment and this is called a set of earmuffs or rabbit ears. And we grab this flushing attachment and we put this flushing attachment over the inlet at the bottom of engine, at the bottom of the outboard casing. So we put this over and make sure that it’s nice and secure and that it fits completely over the engine water intake at the bottom here. We then grab our hose, now this hose is pressurized so I’ll just kink it over quickly and grab our hose. Attach the hose to the flushing attachment and make sure that we’re getting clean water flow over that inlet.

So now we’re ready to flush our outboard. We have water to the engine, and I would hop in the boat normally and kick the engine over. But I’ll get my trusty assistant to give the engine a quick start. So now the engines running, it’s important to ensure that there is water flow from the engine and we do that by looking at this telltale which indicates that water is now streaming through the cooling system. This is fresh water and it is not flushing our engine.

Normally flush the engine for 10 to 15 minutes, maybe a bit longer. You have to ensure that the thermostat fully opens, the engine gets to operating temperature so that the maximum water flow is circulating through that cooling system; circulating through all of those little passages and chambers to flush out the saltwater and those salt crystals. Don’t leave your boat unintended while you’re doing this. Because if the flushing attachment becomes loose, then you won’t have cooling to your engine and your engine could overheat and potentially do some serious damage.

So that’s the basics of flushing the engine. It’s important to do that after every trip in the saltwater and also in the freshwater especially if you have been through some mud and some sand and there might be some silt through the cooling system. So I’ll just switch the engine off quickly now and we’ll go through some other flushing ports on the other side of the engine and we’ll briefly wrap-up the flushing process.

Sometime it’s not practical or viable to run your engine. So if you’re coming home from a fishing trip late at night or early in the morning you can’t always run your engine. And some of these modern-day outboard motors have a secondary flushing attachment or a flushing port like on this Honda. We have one up here. This is not as efficient as drawing the water through your cooling system because you’re not getting your thermostat open and the thermostat working. However this is a good second alternative if you can’t run your engine.

So we usually grab the hose and you just connect the hose to this flushing attachment, run the hose and let the water pressure circulate water through the cooling system; a good alternative if you can’t run your engine at night. Also on some of these smaller engines now they have a small gear case that sometimes have tricky little flushing inlet ports. And what you can do if you can get the set of earmuffs over those is you can just stick them in a large bin or a bucket or even a canvas flush bag. You fill the bucket up with water, lower the engine into the water, start the engine and it will draw water through the cooling system and circulate the water through the cooling system appropriately.

So that’s an introduction to flushing your engine. It’s important to do so after every trip in the saltwater and I would do it after every trip in the freshwater as well just to get into a pattern. That will make sure that your cooling system is flushed, you don’t have salt crystals or grit in your cooling system and hopefully ensure smooth running of your outboard for a long time.
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Flushing your Honda outboard

Flushing The Honda BF150 Outboard (Video)

Learn how and why it is important to flush your Honda BF150 outboard motor. Presented by Team Honda Marine. ... read more



Video Transcript

[Andrew] Well we had a great day on the water today. We have done a bit of fishing. We have just done some great stuff. But now it’s time to clean up and check the boat first to make sure it’s all in order for the next trip.So what we’re going to do is go over some preventative maintenance; the things you should do every time you get back and just make sure the engine is right and ready for the next time.

[Steve] Absolutely Andrew, so what we’re going to do is. I would generally run over the lights on the trailer. Just make sure everything is working; you haven’t snagged or damaged the impeller blade. Tires; check your tires and also obviously check your engine, flush it out. It’s in a saltwater environment which is obviously corrosive and we want to get rid of all of that salt out of the engine. The best way to do that and the most thorough ways to do that is fit a set of muffs down to your gear case down here okay. Cover the water intakes completely. We then turned the water on.

[Andrew] I’m going to do that now.

[Steve] Start the engine and then we can flush the power head thoroughly; make sure it’s clean. And we now turn the engine on and leave it in neutral. So obviously you want to have enough water flow. So you got a good strong telltale. Just let it run for a few minutes and flush all the salt out of the engine so it’s all ready for storage, and obviously ready for your next fishing trip.

And Andrew while we’re waiting for the engine to be flushed completely of salt we might as well talk about a couple of things like the auto relief port here. So obviously when the motor is idling in the water it’s got engine gas pressure and it’s got to come in here somewhere. So this is called your auto relief and you can feel there’s a bit of pressure coming in here. Once the motor gets up, you throttle it up and there is more gas. It then comes through the prop up here. So that becomes your main exhaust.

Other points of interest we want to have a look at as part of your preventative maintenance are rear anodes. Just check those to make sure that they are in good condition and not loose or missing. It’s usually one on either side and one under the power trim and tilt unit, okay. The idea of the anode is it’s made of a material that’s readily eaten by the saltwater. And what the anode does is it sacrifices itself; it’s called a sacrificial anode. It sacrifices itself to make sure our Honda looks as good as new.

That’s a great job Andrew. With the lanolin spray that we are using, it’s a very good corrosion inhibitor. We don’t want to use too much of it though because it gets a little bit tacky and it can cause the rubber to go soft on different fittings. So you just want to give it a light dust over and that will keep your motor looking as good as new for the next time.

[Andrew] Now that we’ve got the engine cleaned washed and ready for the next outing we are going to have. A lot of people don’t check the engine before they put it in the water. Steve what are some of the things you should look for our look at on the engine before you actually go out on the water?

[Steve] I find the best way Andrew is just to run an visual. Just have a look and make sure the fasteners are tight and make sure the steering arm and everything is tight. You don’t generally see a problem but you want to make sure that everything you know. When you go and get in the water you want to make sure that everything is right. Something else I recommend to check before each outing is the engine oil. The Hondas have a sum similar to a car, it’s four cycle. So we’ll pull the dipstick out and we wipe it, and we place it back in, and we push it in back all the way in and then we pull it back out. And we see where about on the dipstick it is. So you can see you of got a low point which is that dot there and we have got a high point which to that dot here. And we are just slightly over so that’s pretty good, looks good to me. SWe can now wipe that and put that back in and we’re good to go.

[Andrew] Fantastic.
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Maintain your outboard

How to Maintain Your Outboard Motor (Video)

Learn how to maintain your outboard motor to keep it running good. Presented by Team Honda Marine. ... read more



Video Transcript

Good day Jim Hamwell here from Fishing World Magazine. I am going to run you through a few very basic outboard maintenance tips. Outboards cost a lot of money so you want to make sure you look after it. Modern outboards like this one needs to be serviced once every hundred hours or once a year and your local Honda mechanic will do that for you. Meantime there are a lot of things you can do to make sure your outboard last the distance and gives you the maximum fun on the water.

Probably the most important thing you can do is wash your outboard after every trip in the saltwater with freshwater and soap. That removes a lot of the salty deposits from the outside of your outboard and this keeps it in good working order. You want to be particularly careful about spraying up under here where your tilt and trim mechanism is and all your fuel and hydraulic steering, that’s really important to do that.

The other thing you should do is to always flush the engine after you have used it in the saltwater. What flushing does is it puts freshwater through your engine and it helps remove salt deposits from inside the engine. If you’re going to flush properly, you can do it for about five to ten minutes. That allows the engine to heat up and as the water is circulating through the engine it will remove the salty deposits.

You should always check your engine as well. The telltale is located here. It’s spraying out water when it’s running. If it’s not working, that means your impeller is not working. That means your outboard could overheat and it’s going to cause some big problems. One of the other things you can do is once every couple of trips, just remove the railing. Just give it a bit of a visual check. Maybe wipe off any salt deposits there, check that there’s no corrosion there on any wiring. Maybe give it a spray with a good lanolin based aerosol to provide corrosion resistance. Just check that things are generally okay; check your oil and those sort of things.

Also what you should do on a fairly regular basis is check your propeller. Now what can happen is that the propeller can sometimes catch fishing lines and that can cause some big problems. Because the seals inside here can get chewed away by the line. So what you should do is if you think you maybe have hooked up a bit of fishing line or you haven’t checked it for a while. Just take the propeller off; it’s not hard. This little collar pin in here; just pull him out. And under you’re nut. You need a spanner or a pair of pliers or something like that. Pull the nut off. Then you can pull your prop out.

Now there is no line on here. Probably you could put a bit of good marine grease in here. Let’s give it a bit of a cleanup. And the main thing is just to make sure there is no fishing line around this area because those will damage your seals. Then that can cause problems with your gearbox and that’s all very, very expensive. Of course check your prop; just make sure there are no dings on it. If there are any dings sometimes you can file them out yourself. Or if it is a bad ding, take it into an outboard shop and they’ll get it professionally done.

Okay this is a very basic outboard maintenance tip. Obviously if there is any serious problem you should take it straight to your local mechanic. But if you follow those basic rules, you should be right. Any way I look forward to seeing you on the water. Cheers.
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servicing your Honda BF90 outboard motor

How to Service Your Honda BF90 Outboard Motor (Video)

Learn how to service your Honda BF90 Outboard Motor. It is easy. Presented by Team Honda Marine. ... read more



Video Transcript

[Andrew] Hi I’m Andrew Winslow from Honda Australia and we’re here today to talk about the BF90 which is the best 90 in its class. It’s also backed by the Honda Australia five-year warranty. I also have Luke Kirby-Clark here who is our technical officer. Luke, explain how the five-year warranty works and what the service intervals are on the BF90.

[Luke] Yeah Andrew the good thing with Honda is it’s a true five-year warranty that’s non-declining. So basically that means that the warranty from the first day to the last day of the warranty period remains the same. And warranty itself is actually backed by Honda Japan. With all manufacturers now, warranty relies on getting your engine serviced. Servicing is basically industry-standard across the outboard range. With Honda you need a 20 hours service which is a minor service that just checks everything out. It changes oils and gets to make sure it’s running to its optimum so you’re ready to go.

From there you have a yearly or a 100 hour service which is also classed as a minor service; which is oils, filters and different things like that. A check over to make sure it's performing the way it should be. Then every two years or 200 hours is a major service. Which during that you do valve clearances, water pump and basically go right through the engine and replace filters and check it over. There are a lot of misconceptions with four-stroke that the servicing is actually newer. With four-stroke the servicing price is sort of offset to the two-stroke oil. So comparatively the four- strokes are getting cheaper and cheaper to service these days.

[Andrew] The hundred hours service for the BF90, what’s required in the service?

[Luke] Okay, with the service on the 90, the technicians are normally going to start at the power head here. Once he’s got the cover off there are a few things that he does need to check. You can check all your spark plugs now with four-strokes. A lot of them are running Iridium plugs. There are two options; you can run standard plugs or Iridium. The iridium plugs now have got a service life of 400 hours and the standard ones are down to 100.

Once he has checked these spark plugs there is also a thermostat here and the one inside the block here that he will check as well. Pull those out, clean and check if they are operating fine. The BF90 has a timing chain with a self-adjusting tensioner which you won’t need to check because it does it automatically.

Also on-board engines there are a few fuel filters; one inside the vapor separator which is a high-pressure fuel that’s going to restrict any of the finer dirt entering into the engine. And there’s also a smaller on-board fuel filter. That’s our primary fuel filter that they will check and replace if necessary. Once he has done the fuel filters and fuel side of things, he’s going to come along and he’s going to check out the oil filter and the oil. He will drain the oil and replace the oil filter. Then that’s basically the power head top-end done.

Once he has gone from there, he will take the gearbox off. He will check the water pump impeller which is vital; it’s a rubber component that needs to be checked yearly and replaced when it’s perished. Also down in the gearbox there is gear oil that needs to be checked yearly and replaced. Another thing is the prop. He will take the prop off and he will check behind the prop. Sometimes when you’re out you get fishing line wrapped around the prop and it can cause damage to the seals as well.

Once he has done all that and gets the engine back together, we has a computer system called Dr. H that he can hook into your engine and it’s basically going to tell him all the information about your engine. If there is any fault codes it will store those and he can check. It will also be able to give you accurate printouts showing the usage of the engine, the RPM and how many hours it’s done at each RPM; which is good when you’re going to resell your engine. That’s basically covering the hundred hour service.

When you go to the 200 hours or the two yearly it’s a bigger service. But what we do there, inside all four-stroke outboards they have valves. And the valves need to be adjust and regulated to keep the engine running right. If you don’t adjust the valves, later on down the track you’re going to have a fair bit of problem. Now with our outboards we are the only ones that use fully adjustable valves, and with Honda everything is quite easy to service. So in behind here is the rock and cover or tap and cover as some people call it. And in behind there are the valves. So at 200 hours it’s a relatively quick job for the mechanic to adjust the valves all up to keep your engine running in optimum condition. We’ve actually got these engines that have done well over 15,000 hours and still continue running using the original heads and cylinders.

So one thing you will always hear is a good old story about people never changing a water pump impeller for 10 years, but actually it’s fairly naïve. A lot of people don’t understand that the water pump impeller is just a rubber component. Here is actually a new water pump impeller. Which you can see that when they are new they are quite flexible and they are fairly sturdy. One thing that’s going to greatly affect your water pump and damage it very rapidly is lack of water. You need to make sure that when you’re flushing the engine you have a good constant flow of water coming out of the telltale. If the water is not coming out, stop the motor immediately. This is the type of damage that will happen with lack of water. The water bin rubber running in stainless steel housing here. You can see the rubber in the stainless steel housing is going to generate a lot of heat very quickly and even do major damage within 30 to 40 seconds. You can see here that the inside of the housing has starting to melt and from here this is how it’s just going to degenerate very quickly and cause major problems for your engine.

[Andrew] Today you see boats with single engines and twin engines on them. What’s the main difference and why would you have two against the one?

[Luke] With twin they are a lot easier to maneuver especially on catamarans; quite easier to maneuver with twin engines. When you go into offshore conditions, twins tend to ride a little bit better. Most big mono hulls they fit twin tabs. But with the twin engine installation you can adjust the trim of the engine; each engine differently to get a much better ride. Also on a boat at sea you might find the boat tends to lean over on one side, you can adjust the trim and that will ride out of it.

With the big engines up to 150 and upwards, you can get them with a counter rotating gearbox which makes the boat; you will have one left-hand rotation prop and one right-hand rotation which makes the boat track very well in the sea. The other main benefit with the bigger ones is you can actually get a lot of horsepower on the back of the boats now. So where boats previously would have been powered by inboard, you can now see the guys have started to use 200 and upwards to get up to that 500 hp around the back of a big boat which is also very good. And then once they have them on the back of the boat they have the better features of an outboard. They are purposely built for saltwater; maintenance is a lot easier because they are on the back of the boat. The legs are easier to get out of the water if you’re going to moor them. And just all around generally a better thing.

[Andrew] The BF90 has got VTEC on the engine, it was obviously developed by the Honda Formula One team and this engine is also developed on the Jazz engine. Tell us a little bit about those.

[Luke] Basically the Honda Jazz is the number one selling car worldwide and inside the 90, the power head is basically the same configuration as a Honda car based on the Honda Jazz. With the VTEC, Honda was the very first company to introduce variable valve timing and from there it’s being copied a few times but fairly unsuccessfully. The Honda VTEC is out of 1 million engines produced without one recall I tell you.
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