How to flush Honda Outboards, brought to you by Fishing World and Honda Outboard Engines. ...read more
So here we are. We spent a day in salt water with our boab boat. It’s important now, to wash all the salt from the exterior of the boat, and the exterior of the engine. But more importantly, what we need to do is flush the cooling system.
The reason we flush the cooling system is that, modern day outboard engines, and outboard engines in general, draw water from the lake, from the sea. And circulate that water around the power head, out through the cooling chambers, and use that water to cool down the engine. So it’s important now, that we’ve stopped the boat, to wash out that salt water. Because over time, that salt would crystalize the, and can start blocking cooling system passages.
The way in which we do that. I will just put this hose down. We use a flushing attachment, and this is called a set of ear muffs or rabbit ears. And we grab this flushing attachment; we put this flushing attachment over the inlet at the bottom of the engine, at the bottom of the outboard casing. So we put this over, and make sure that it’s nice and secure, and that it fits completely over the engine, water intake at the bottom here.
We then grab our hose. This hose is pressurized, so I just take it over quickly. Grab the hose, attach the hose to the flushing attachment, and make sure that we’re getting clean water flow over that inlet. So now we are ready to flush your outboard. We have water to the engine, topping the boat, normally keep the engine over, but I get my trusted assistant to give the engine a quick start. So now the engine’s running. It’s important to ensure that there’s water flow from the engine. We do that by looking at this tell tail. Which the indicator water is now straining through the cooling system. This is fresh water, and it is now flushing our engine. Normally flush the engine for 10, 15 minutes maybe a bit longer.
You have to ensure that the thermostat is fully opened, the engine gets to operating temperature. So with that a maximum water flow is circulating through that cooling system, to circulate through all of those little patches and chambers. Flush out the salt water, and salt crystals. Don’t leave your boat unattended whilst you’re doing this, because if the flushing attachment comes loose. Then you won’t have cooing your engine. Your engine could overheat, and potentially do some serious damage. So that’s the basic of flushing engine. It’s important to do that, after every trip in salt water.
Also in fresh water, especially if you’ve been through some mud, or sand, and there maybe some silt, through the cooling system. So I’ll just switch the engine off quickly now. We’re going through some other flushing points, on the other side of the engine. And we’ll briefly wrap up the flushing process. Sometimes it’s not practical, or viable to run your engine. So if you’re coming from a fishing trip late at night, or in the morning, you can’t always run your engine. And some of these modern day air boat motors have a secondary flushing attachment, or a flushing port. Like on this engine, we have on up here. This is not as efficient, as drawing the water through your cooling system, cause you’re not getting your thermostat open, and your thermostat working. However, this is a good second alternative, if you can’t run your engine. So we usually grab the hose, and you just connect the hose to this flushing attachment, run the hose. And allow the water pressure to circulate water through the cooling system.
A good alternative if you can’t run your engine at night. Also on some of these smaller engine, now they have a smaller 3:54. They sometimes have tricky little flushing inlet cords. What you can do, if you can’t get a set of ear muffs. You just stick them in a large bin, or a bucket, or even a canvas flush bag, fill the bucket up with water, lower the engine into the water, start the engine .And it will draw water through the cooling system, so you can have the water through the cooling system appropriately. So that’s an introduction to flushing your engine. It’s important to do so after, every trip in salt water, and I’d do after every trip in fresh water as well, just to get into a pattern, into a routine. Ensure that your cooling system is flushed. You don’t have salt crystals or grit in your cooling system. And hopefully ensure smooth running of your outboard for a long time.read less
HOW TO Make Your Honda Outboard Motor Idle Good Again
Here is a great video on how to get a Honda outboard motor running smoothly again....read more
Hi guys. Welcome back. Just a quick video for those of you who have a Honda outboard motor like this. This is a five horsepower. If you have a motor like this and it doesn't want to idle properly, I'm just going to show you something that you can quickly do and it may remedy the problem. Now obviously, you want to make sure that your carburetor is clean and that you have fresh gas in the tank before you do this.
To start with, just take the top cover off. Now, what you need to do is remove the screw on top of the carburetor right here. Make sure you have a good screwdriver to do this so you don't damage the screw. I'll take the screw right off. It's also a jet. Now I'm going to extract it with a pair of pliers.
Here's a close-up view of that jet. First, you want to make sure that all the holes on the sides are clean and you can see through so they're clean. Now, what I'm going to do is run a piece of wire through this small hole over here. The only piece of wire that will fit in there that I have is a piece from a wire brush.
I'm going to grab a wire brush. Grab one of the wires, bend it make sure it's clean and then I'm going to run it through the hole. I will run it in there a few times. It's going to clean any dirt that's in there or if the hole has shrunk a bit for whatever reasons, it's going to make it slightly bigger and it's going to idle better after the engine.
That's all I'm going to do to it. You can also air blow it with your air compressor but if you do that, wear safety glasses and make sure to hold the screw or the jet in your hands really tight because it can blow away. I'm going to put it back in the engine now, start it up and show you that the engine idles properly.
I'm just going to put it back in there and now, I'll tighten it up. You don't need to tighten it up too much. Just a bit. That's all there is to it. Also, you want to make sure that your engine is spraying out water underneath. That means that the impeller is working good to control the engine down.
That's the key over here. Now, before I did this to the jet, this engine would not idle at all even after I had adjusted the idle screw over here. If you want it to idle faster, you turn it in. You turn it out if you want it to idle slower. I had tried all that, even clean the carb and it still didn't want to run properly at idle so that ended up being the problem - just this small simple thing like that.
By the way, I mostly work on small engines. I do work on some small outboard motors from time to time so if you have other tips, please share them in the Comments section. I'm sure everybody else will appreciate that. Thanks for watching guys and we'll see you next time.