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Marine Fuel Tank Sending Units

6 results
Universal Electric Sending Unit
Universal Electric Sending Unit
The Moeller Electric Sending Unit is designed to gather information the level of fuel in the tank. This swing arm electric sending unit operates in …
Starting at: $26.16
List price: $32.89
In stock

Moeller Reed Switch Sending Units
Moeller Reed Switch Sending Units (Wema)
The Moeller Reed Switch Sending Unit is designed to consistently provide accurate fuel gauge readings. This sending unit measures the fuel level …
Starting at: $50.27
List price: $68.59
In stock

Replacement Gasket For Moeller Sending Units
Replacement Gasket For Moeller Sending Units
If the gasket in the Moeller sending unit is damaged, then the seal will not be tight, which will reduce tank performance.  Replace the damaged …
Your price: $9.32
List price: $10.59
In stock

Moeller Conversion Capsule
Moeller Conversion Capsule
The Moeller Conversion Capsule is designed to convert the amount of fuel reading from a direct-reading gauge into an electric remote sending gauge. …
Your price: $61.34
List price: $72.99
In stock

Seachoice Fuel Gauge Kit
Seachoice Fuel Gauge Kit
One of the worst things that could happen to a sailor is to be stranded in the middle of the blue because there’s no fuel in the tank. Keep …
Starting at: $24.11
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List price: $26.95
In stock

SeaStar Universal Fuel Sender
SeaStar Universal Fuel Sender
The fuel sender is a critical component essential for proper working of the fuel gauge. Designed with 10-24 stud connections, the Teleflex Universal …
Starting at: $40.29
List price: $54.99
In stock

6 results
Boating Know How
Glastron fuel sender

How to Replace your Glastron Fuel Sender (Video)

Learn how to replace your Glastron Fuel Sender. Presented by Frisco Boater. ... read more

Video Transcript

Happy new year, everybody! It’s the first of January, 2010. Hope everybody had a safe night out last night. I know I did because I didn’t go anywhere. Sat at home. I got two kids and a wife. Been married a long time. Just don’t go out anymore. Just kind of take it easy and watch the Dick Clark thing on TV.

Anyway, today we’re replacing that fuel sending unit that is defective. You see the old one that’s down in there, and here is my new one. You can see, there’s my fuel. It is working beautifully. So the sending unit’s fine, but however, when you go all the way down to empty, my little fuel light still does not come on, so I’m not worried about that as long as my gas gauge works.

So anyway, this is one of those Moellar or Miller, or something like that, universal ones. What I need to do is I need to get that out of there and measure the depth of the tank from the top to the bottom, and then it has, on this little universal deal. It has instructions on the back to be able to cut the right length of this rod. That way, it works properly. I’m going to get that thing out, and see what we got.

Okay, I got all the screws out. Let’s see what we got. Nice. How, and pray tell, does that come out of there? It’s a little float. Ah! There we go. Awesome. So that’s the little floaty-bob thing. Oh man, and it’s got a lot of resistance on it. When it hits right there, it catches. Interesting. Could be what’s wrong with it. Cool. I’m going to go get my tape measure. Oh nice. Looks like there’s a lot of – let me turn the light on here. Alright, you see in there, a lot of corrosion around this seal. Let’s see how bad that is. Yeah, looks like I’m going to have to scrub that off. Alright let me get my tape measure and measure the length – the depth of the tank and figure out how long to make this rod.

Alright, so what I have determined is that the tank is a seven and just over a quarter-inches deep and per the instructions, it says to use the next measurement up, which is, you can see, seven and a half inches. So that means that the arm needs to be 5-13/16’s from the sender, so I’m going to measure that from right here. I’m guessing. They don’t really say. I guess they mean the whole length of the arm from here to there. That’s what I’m going to measure off. Then it says to take and push the entire thing up to match that and then snip it off.

They said do not push these the wrong way. You push them once and once you've figured out how far you want them, stop because you can’t take them back. So let me do that. I’ll mark off this and slide it up.

Alright, so you can see my little green mark down there is 5-13/16 from there. So it said to push a little bit past it, so therefore I can slide this other retainer up just past this and leave 5/16 and then leave a little bit of play between the float and the little retainers.

Okay, so I slid it up and cut off the excess, left just a teensy bit of play around it to allow it to do that and go up and down. So now I’m going to tackle all that corrosion. I’m going to scrape it off, sand it down, make it look real good.

Alright, about 10 minutes of scraping. I used a chisel to kind of scrape the top stuff off, then I stuck my hand in there with a hundred grit sandpaper and just basically sanded it all down, trying to make sure I didn’t drop anything down inside the hole. Looks like there is some stuff down there. Some crud and some trash, but it’s probably just left over. It was there when I pulled the sender out. That’s why they make a fuel filter for, right? But anyway, I’m going to stick this back in there with its new gasket and everything like that. These things are kind of in a star pattern, so it only goes on one way. So kind of nice. No guessing. I’m going to put it in.

It wasn’t too bad. It took me a little while to get the holes exactly lined up. Seemed like every which way I tried, it wouldn’t work and I was like, “Ned, what did I do? Buy the wrong piece?” Well once you get it to line up, lines up perfectly. Screws right down, and each one of the new screws it came with had the little bit of metal at the end of the screw head, I guess to kind of help give it a good seal. It says don’t tighten it down, so I did it to 15 inch pounds of torque to make sure that it’s nice and good and sealed.

It says to pressure test it. I guess before we take it on the lake this year, I’ll take it up to the marina and have them back pressure test it to make sure it’s sealed nicely, but my dash is showing half a tank. It goes off, it goes on, and if you shake it, you see it does move, so it is reading, and that’s where I had was about a little over half a tank whenever I’d put it in storage, or started taking it to port. Hopefully that’s about what I remember correctly, but we’ll see come spring. We’ll get it in there. At least it shows me what’s going on.

As you can see, it’s not hard to replace a fuel sending unit. It takes a little bit of time, little bit of thinking to measure out everything right to get it correct, but not hard. Not hard at all.
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