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Mariner Outboard Anodes

Transom Bracket Power Trim Anodes 823912 825271 818298 89949 Side Mounted Pocket Anodes 823912 826134 Propeller Nut Anodes 809664 Trim Tab & Anti-Ventilation Plate Anodes 17264 31640 98432 822157 822777 15300 42121 76214 823913
Boating Know How
Boating Anodes
Tips for Servicing Outboard Anodes (Video)
A video presentation by Kevin Falvey on how to inspect and change the anodes on a Suzuki 250 outboard engine. ... read more

Video Transcript

Taking apart the shroud and callies that cover the mid-section of the pan of the Suzuki 250. What we are looking at here is to change the zincs. Alright, the engine has zincs in the cylinder banks. The land and sea four strokes have zincs that you can’t see unless you take the shroud and callies off. See this one here. On the oil pan, this cover right here, hides the zinc.

So you’ve got to look for these. You’ve got to change them and check them annually.

Now, one of the things you want to do is to pull a screw (Cylinder). At least you’d think. Once the screw’s off, calcium build up. See I can barely move this one. I might be able to grab it, pry it off, is a temptation, then I would be scratching the protective coating the factory applied.

Here’s what I do. You’ll notice it is threaded inside. The screw bits into the housing, but not into the cover. Those threads allow the threads in the retaining screw to pass through. By using a bolt with bigger threads, and thread it into the cap, I can easily get the zinc off.

This zinc has had 150 hours of use. It doesn’t look too bad. But, because I’ve gone to all this work, I’m going to change it.

Changing your zinc’s annually, is cheap insurance. Get it done.

For boating, I’m Kevin Falvey.
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Bonding and Anodes


Bonding can be a technical process so if you need some help with installation then you should consult a technician. Bonding is a process to help you ... read more equalize the potential of all different underwater metal parts. You do this process by “bonding” two different metals to an anode with copper straps and wires. When two dissimilar metals connect in water, this is where corrosion will start as we have previously discussed. This is why you connect the two metals to an anode instead of the corrosion commencing on the needed metals. Bonding all metals to the anode keeps your beautiful boat looking like the masterpiece you brag about.

So here is a little bit about the process of bonding. Your main bonding conductor needs to be well above the bilge level, to the boat's common ground point at the engine block (and on battery). Be sure to use a #8 insulated-stranded wire and use the same type of wire for individual bonding connectors. Your entire setup will connect to your sacrificial anode which is mounted to the transom of your boat. Internal electrical systems, such as engines, a/c units, etc., will also be connected to the bonding system. Metal fuel tanks, fuel pumps, and other such things can be set up through this bonded system as well. Take a look at your boat, if you think metal is exposed to corrosion, the bonding set up can help prevent corrosion in very important parts and to your boat as a whole.

It is not recommended to do a bonding system on a wooden hulled boat. If you have to do a bonding system on a wooden hull, make sure you use an insulated bonding system. Also, there is no need to bond to boat trim tabs, they will not need an anode, so take note of that if you have trim tabs. Bonding makes things very efficient for your boat and is worth the time and investment in doing it. Your boat is sure to be a classic if you take these procedures to bond to the sacrificial anode. This bonding system protects your boat in many ways and has many advantages such as suppressing radio noise and protection against lightning. Boating is exciting, so keep that ride alive!

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