Rapid Cure Epoxy
Rapid Cure Epoxy Kits are great for quick repairs and bonding. Mix small amounts of the resin and hardener at a time. You'll have 30-45 seconds to use it and 5-10 minutes to set it. This is FAST, PERMANENT, and WATERPROOF.
Rapid Cure Kits are great for keeping on board or at home in the tool kit. Useful for quick kayak, canoe, or home repairs. Permanent, waterproof repair when you're on the move and need it done right.
- Mix Ratio: 1:1 Resin to Hardener
- Pot Life: 1-2 min at 77°F or faster
- Work Time: 1-5 min
- Sandable: 1-2 hrs
- Full Cure: 4-6 hrs
- Tensile Strength: 5700 psi
MAS Epoxies are the most advanced, high performance and user-friendly epoxy formulas in the world. We support all our products with knowledgeable, easy to reach staff, and provide a 100% money-back guarantee. Contact Mas Epoxies at 1-888-627-3769'
John Greviskis: What we'll be using with this project is an epoxy resin and that leads us to our next expert guest, who we have the thrill of having on today with us, is JB Curral and JB is the owner of Mas Epoxy, which is a very big name in the marine industry in epoxies. JB, let's talk a little bit about why we're using an epoxy resin here to build up this area of the transom, rather than a traditional polyester resin. That's what Bertrom used back in 1966 when they were first building the boat.
JB Curral: You're right, the boat was built out of polyester and polyester is a great resin to build the boat out of, but it's not a great adhesive, and epoxies are excellent adhesives. Epoxies have a bond strength of about 2,000 PSI where a polyester, if you're trying to glue this on here, might have a bond strength have 300 PSI.
John Greviskis: Okay, now I want to show everybody what I'm doing here. Okay, this is my first piece of glass. Let me pull it back off the boat. This is a little patch of 1708, knitted by Axol Fiberglass, and I'm actually going to use three pieces. I'm gonna put the smallest portion on the outboard part of this repair. Again I'm trying to build like a wedge, if you will, to make this area of the transom flat. I'm gonna put this down first, then I'm going to put a little longer layer over the top of it. Then I'll put even a larger layer over the top of that to build this out. And I'm noticing, check this out, as I'm kinda wetting out the class, JB. Notice how, this is a relatively thick piece of glass, notice how it is making it transparent right away. That is not typical when you're talking about wetting out class with epoxy. Why is your resin doing it? Why is it so easy to work with?
JB Curral: Well John today we're working with are low viscosity resin. And the low viscosity resin isn't just thinner than most epoxy resin systems, we also use what are called air release agents, or surfacants, in the system to lower the surface tension so it wants to wick through the fibers and wet out the glass, lower the air entrapment.
John Greviskis: Okay, what is going on with epoxies? You usually have something called an amin blush. What is amin blush?
JB Curral: Amin blush is from the hardeners, and it's reacting with moisture in the air and leaving a film on the surface. It can look like suntan lotion on the surface when it cures up.
John Greviskis: Okay whats the downside to amin blush?
JB Curral: Well it can act almost as a release agent. It's a contaminant. You have to remove it.
John Greviskis: How do you remove it?
JB Curral: You remove it by using a Scotch Brite pad and just some warm water, actually.
John Greviskis: How'd you work that out?
JB Curral: Well, my partner, Tony, who designed the system worked at eliminating amin blush almost 15 years ago when we started our company. And our slow, medium and fast hardeners, none them have that waxy film when it sets up. So you don't have to wash and sand in between your coats. So you can save up to 40 percent in labor by using it.
John Greviskis: How does the proxy cure? How how does a liquid turn into a very hard solid?
JB Curral: Well it works through an exothermic reaction. The chemicals create their own heat, and that's how it cures.
John Greviskis: Now with your resin, are you limited by how many layers? I mean, you know, if you have multiple layers it is going to mean more heat.
JB Curral: No, John, we've controlled the exotherm so that it won't boil. However you need to be careful because if it gets really warm outside, if we are working at 90 degrees or above, you're going to want to work with slower hardener, so that it doesn't get too hot and go off too quickly for you.
John Greviskis: Well that's one of the main reasons that I really like working with your stuff. You have the ability to mix your catalyst. You can you can kind of curtail whatever mixture you want. If you're looking for something that cures fast, you can go that way. If you want to slow it down a little bit, you can add a little bit of medium to your fast cure.
JB Curral: Right.
John Greviskis:If you want to go slow you can go slow, speed it up a little bit. You can add a little bit of fast. And typically a lot of these epoxy companies, they have these pumps, and you have to be pretty darn good at math, and you have never really good memory. Is that like 10 to 1, is that 5 to 1, is that 1 to 1. Yours is really simplified. Tell us about that.
JB Curral: It is. We've calibrated the pump so it's one pump to one pump. It's not necessarily to have the pumps with ratio. The system is 2 to 1. Two parts resin to one part hardener. And as you mentioned, we can blend the hardeners. But you never have to change that ratio. It's 2 parts resin to 1 part hardener.
John Greviskis: So you've made it easy for a dummy like me.
JB Curral: Yeah, well, me too.
John Greviskis: I've got all three layers up here. I'm going to wet this out. And once this cures we can start the process of fairing this out. But right now what we need to do is thank JB.