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Suzuki Outboard Cooling Parts

8 Items
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Suzuki Impellers
Starting at $9.26
List price: $12.75
In stock

Suzuki 17400-96350 replacement parts
Starting at: $17.26
List price: $25.77
In stock

Water Pump Kit - Sierra
Starting at: $14.37
List price: $22.15
In stock

Suzuki 17472-95310 replacement parts
Starting at: $1.74
List price: $2.40
In stock

Suzuki 17462-93990 replacement parts
Starting at: $4.71
In stock

Suzuki Impeller Plates
Starting at: $4.70
In stock

Suzuki Outboard Thermostat Gaskets
Thermostat Gaskets
Suzuki Outboard Thermostat Gaskets - Sierra
Starting at: $1.93
List price: $2.21
In stock

Water Pump Housing
Starting at: $42.63
List price: $50.69
In stock

8 Items
Boating Know How
suzuki outboard water pump

How to Service and Change your Suzuki Outboard Water Pump -Part 1 - (Video)

Watch step by step on how to remove and service you Suzuki outboard water pump. Demonstrated by D-Ray's Shop. ... read more

Video Transcript

Hi everybody and welcome back to D-Ray’s Shop. Today I’m working on this Suzuki 25 horse 2-stroke outboard. I’m going to be replacing the water pump impeller and servicing the lower unit. So let’s get started.

Now the first thing we want to do is disconnect the shifting linkage. And your shifting linkage is located just above and on the leading edge of the lower unit, it’s right there. So I’m going to zoom in there and show you a little bit of detail on it. As we get in there and little closer, you want to back off this little jam nut right here. Then we got a barrel nut that adjust the linkage. So what we want to do, you should reach in here with your wrench, back off the jam nut just enough to break it loose, you don’t want to turn it any more than that. That way we’ll know where to put our shifting linkage when we reattach it. Then we’re just going to back that barrel nut off just enough to get it to turn loose of the shifting linkage. There we go, right there.

That has got that shifting linkage disconnected so now we’ll work on the lower unit bolts. The lower unit is held on with six bolts. Three on this side and three on the opposite side just like it. So we are going to remove these bolts and that should allow us to remove this lower unit.

Alright I’m taking the last bolt out of the lower unit here. That should allow the lower unit to come off. Now the lower unit is kind of held on with some dowel pins. So once he gets all the bumps out you have to kind of wiggle it a little bit to get it to turn loose, here we go. Then just ease that lower unit on off there, so again nothing to it.

Alright we’ll take this over to the work bench. We’ll take this water pump cover off and see what our impeller looks like. Here’s the top of our lower unit and there is our water pump housing, the impeller is right inside there. This cover is held on with four 6mm cap nuts with 10mm heads on them. So we’ll just take those off and that should allow us to take that water pump housing off. Alright now we get those nuts and lock washers off of there. I’m just going to take me a screwdriver and I’m just going to kind of very carefully pry up on that cover in a few places to kind of break it loose, just like that. Then I’m going to work that cover up off of the shaft. Just like it right there and just ease that on off. Right there is our impeller housing and you can see our impeller right there.

Now one thing that you will note about this impeller; come on zoom on in there I want you to get to a closer look at it. If you will notice, these impeller blades are curved. That’s a good thing to note because as this impeller is installed, you’re going to have to turn the shaft in the direction that shaft normally turns to orient those veins correctly. Otherwise you’ll damage the pump the first time you start the motor up. This old pump here doesn’t look too bad. Some of the impeller blades have set so along, they kind of got a kink in them. So now is a good time to replace that.

So to get that impeller off of there, what we’ll do is just take a screwdriver, just kind of very carefully pry up on it. Pry upon that shaft a little ways and what you will also notice is that there is a key way right there. That’s what keys the impeller to the input shaft, so be sure you don’t lose that. All right there’s our impeller.

Now there is our key way there, you want to kind of pry around on that, pop that key way out. Now we’ve got that impeller off of there, we’ll reach in here and very carefully pry that pump plate loose. There we go, we’ll go ahead and take that off. There is your pump plate. Then all we’ll need to do is kind of go through here and clean off all the gasket material real good. Then we’re going to inspect the pump plate and get ready to reinstall the new impeller.

We’re getting ready to reinstall our pump housing now. What I do is just took the pump housing, cleaned of all the gasket material and take a few minutes just to kind of give it a good inspection and make sure they were no real deep nicks or gouges in that pump body, that one looks really good. And this is our new impeller. One thing that you would note on it is that it has a key way cut only on one side of it; the top side is solid. So when you go to install that new impeller, be sure to install it with the key way facing down. Now you can buy just the impeller from your local Suzuki dealer or sometimes you can get them through an aftermarket source. But what I like to do is I like to go ahead to get the whole impeller kit. It’s just a few bucks more and you go ahead and get you a brand-new impeller plate. You get a new key way and new gasket. And it’s only just a few bucks more than just the impeller by itself.

Now one other thing I like to do just before I install the impeller in the pump housing. I like to take just a small dab of grease and just kind of put a light smear inside the pump housing. Now it only takes just a very very small trace. We’re only putting just enough in there to give that impeller a little bit of initial lubrication just before the water hits it. That way you don’t overheat the impeller and burn it up during initial startup. I’m going to do the same thing with this impeller. I’m just going to put just a little smear of grease on the top and bottom sides of it and a little bit on the impeller blades. Now you don’t want to overdo this grease here because you don’t want it plugging up the insides of the cylinder head and things like that. I mean this is just such a small amount, all you can see on there is it just kind of shine that up a little bit. We’re not just really getting it on there. But that will save that impeller the first time you fire it off.

Alright now we’ve got everything ready to go. Now we’ll re-install it. So let’s put this pump back together. What we are going to start out with is the pump plate to gasket. Now one thing to note, these studs that hold all these parts on are oriented in such a way that all your components will only go one way. So that way there is no way to get them wrong.

So I’ll install the gasket first, slide it down under those studs, just like that. Next we’ll install the pump plate. There again it will only go on one way. Once you get that dropped down in place, next you want to install the key way. Just put the key way in the shaft there and if you like you can take a hammer and just very carefully kind of tap that in until you get it bottomed out.

Next to go on is going to be the impeller and as we stated earlier, the impeller has a slot on one side and solid on the other. The slot end goes first, so we put it on in this direction, just like that. Now we’re going to install the impeller housing. Now what we want to do as we are installing the impeller housing, we’re actually going to turn the input shaft clockwise as viewed from the top facing down. You want to turn that clockwise because that’s the direction that the shaft normally turns when the engine is running. Now what that’s going to do is as we set that housing down there, it’s going to curve those impeller blade to have them oriented correctly so that pump will work right.

So let’s take our housing, we’ll just ease that down onto that shaft and just kind of rest it on those studs. Next we’ll turn the shaft clockwise and put just a little bit of downward pressure on there and you’ll feel those impeller blades just curl their way right on into the housing. There we go, now we’ve got the blades oriented properly and we can go ahead and put on our lock washers and our nuts. And we’ll have this lower unit about ready to install.

Alright now we got our pump housing reinstalled onto the lower unit. Just go ahead and reinstall this.
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suzuki outboard water pump

How to Service and Change your Suzuki Outboard Water Pump -Part 2 - (Video)

Watch step by step on how to remove and service you Suzuki outboard water pump. Demonstrated by D-Ray's Shop. ... read more

Video Transcript

Now we’re ready to reinstall the lower unit. One last thing I’ve done is you want to put a little dab of grease on the splines, where the power shaft plugs into the power head. Also just put a little bit of grease on the rubber grommet where the water pipe connection is. So just get your couple of bolts handy, let’s install this thing.

All you got to do is just kind of ease of that up into the lower end of the power unit. And as you get it up there kind of close, just kind of wiggle it around. You’ll feel that power shaft ease up into that lower unit. Then just kind of line the stem down, give it a little wiggle. Here we go; all right she’s in there. Take your bolt and start it up in there.

I’ve got all of the bolts in this lower unit now, and what I’m doing here is I’m just kind of run them up kind of finger tight. And I’m just kind of going around this thing a little at a time and just kind of snugging those up a little as I go. And what that does is that kind of squares this thing up on the dowel pins and kind of settles the lower unit over this casket. That way you don’t put nothing in a bind or possibly damage it. Just kind of work your way around, snug them all down a little bit at a time until you feel them all bottom out. There you go and put them all down tight. Alright, there we have it.

Our last thing to install is going to be the shift the linkage. What I’m going to do here, I have my wrench here handy. I’m just going to take this shift lever and very slowly ease that barrel nut down onto the shift shaft. Until I feel it just barely come in contact with it, just like that. Then I’m going to start threading that onto the shaft. I’m going to run it up until it just comes in contact with the jam nut, just like that. Then I’ll grab me a second wrench, I’m going to snug that up. Then we will run it through the gears a few times to make sure everything is in proper adjustment. Then we should be good to go.

Next we’re going to change the lower unit oil and this is pretty easy to do. Basically you have got a drain screw down here on the bottom. Then you have a fit screw up here on the top side. Now the second school here is a flush out for cleaning out the power head if you run in salt water or in really dirty water conditions where you want to flush that out real good. So we are not going to mess with this one here. So all we’re going to do is just take the drain screw out. Then we’ll take the vent out and that will allow all that lower unit oil to drain out.

Now our lower unit is fully drained out so now we’re going to refill it. And what we’re going to do is we’re going to pump oil in from the bottom. We’re going to fill it all the way up until it comes out of the vent hole up here on the top. Now this is what I use to fill my lower units with. This is just a generic little pump I got at my local Wal-Mart, and it pretty much screws on to just about any size 1 quart gear lube bottle. And it comes with a little piece of hose and it has got a threaded adapter that fits most of your drain screws.

So all we got to do is to take our adapter, we are just going to thread that into the bottom of the lower unit. Now we got that adapter in place, then we’ll take the pump, connect it to the hose just like that. Then we’ll just pump this gear lube into the bottom and we’ll pump it until we see it starts coming out of the top.

Okay now you see gear oil start coming out of that vent hole there. You see it’s kind of bubbling so I’m kind of just let it settle for a second. Then I’m going to hit it a few more times to make sure we get all the air worked out of it. There we go, yeah, okay. We’re pretty well full right there. So now I’m going to stop right there. I’m going to reinstall the vent plug, snug it up, just like that. Now I’m going to disconnect the pump, then I’m going to remove the adapter vendor reinstall the drain plug. If you do it in this order, when you take the drain plug out you won’t lose just a few drops of oil. That way you ensure that you still got the lower unit full. Just like that.

All right we about got this wrapped up. We are all ready guys it’s going to wrap up our water pump and lower unit service for our Suzuki 25 horse outboard. That wasn’t too hard of a job to do. I mean chute, an old fart like me can do it; by golly you can do it too, alright.

Well, appreciate you all watching and leave me a couple of comments in the comment section below. And as always you all have a good. Catch you all next time around.
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