Here at iboats you will find a huge variety of Yamaha outboard zincs, anodes, and corrosion protection. Anodes protect the metals on your outboard motor from the costly repairs of replacing corroded motor parts. From internal engine anodes to transom bracket power trim anodes and, trim tab anodes to anti-ventilation plate anodes, shopping at iboats will ensure you find exactly what you need at a great price.
Function, Maintenance of a Yamaha Outboard's Sacrificial anode (Video)
Here is a detailed video with Jamie D discussing the function and maintenance of an anode....read more
Hello and thank you for tuning to another segment of Ask Jamie. Today we're going to talk a little about trim tabs for your outboard motor. Some of you guys know these as trim tabs, they also serve another purpose as a sacrificial anode. And the one that we're talking about today, goes right at the bottom of the anti-cavitation plate. And this little guy right here is something that you see on all the outboards but so many people don’t understand their true function.
So we're going to go through both their two main functions today. First off there are particles in the water called electrolysis. And this is generated by people that plug in their short power or a port grounding while you're at the marina. And what happens is the electrolysis process to put in the simple term, attack metal and they eat up the metal.
And to give you an example, this is an anode that came off of another boat and you can see here how much it's been eat up. This is not corrosion. This is actually due to the process of electrolysis. Very important that we use this on our outboard at all times regardless of where we boat.
Now second, because this is a single outboard configuration your outboard will create a factor called P Factor. You have heard that, it's an airplane terminology. But a propeller on a boat, much like a propeller on an airplane, is turning one way which means that it's giving unusable forces in the opposite direction.
Meaning - the motor always wants to go to right because this is a right hand rotation. This little trim tab will take that pressure and help this motor stay aligned at all times, running in a straight line, which is exactly what we want unless we want to turn it.
So, two important factors here: One, obviously it's treating against the electrolysis whenever you're out boating. Second, it help keeping your outboard running straight. Now how do we adjust this for a proper running outboard motor. Often times when you get on your boat, especially a new boat, or if you’ve repowered your board, you notice that once you get up to full throttle your motor is just not running quite straight.
You'll notice a lot of pressure on the steering wheel. Or maybe when you take your hand off the steering wheel, it will want to draft. Or in some cases actually draft and dig, and want to go to the right real quick.
Each of these trim tabs are mounted on the back on the underside of the anti-cavitation plate here and can be got into by going into the top half, at the top of the mid-section here. I'll put this guy back here; took it off for a second real quick. A nice little plastic cap or rubber cap just to keep that hole concealed.
I am using just a regular 3/8 ratchet. This is just single bolt and this guy right here happens to be a 12mm. And to adjust, sort of take this off. You just want to fish this wrench right down, to the lower unit. Found it. And we strut it off - loosening it up. You may see it. It's actually turning now.
Now if we're just adjusting the trim tab to get our outboard running straight, you will just want to loosen it up enough so you can actually come and adjust the trim tab. So the trim tab doesn’t come all the way off.
This is really important. Which direction do we point the trim tab is dependent on which direction you are having the trouble? So let's just assume that your motor falls hard to the right. You're simply going to move the trim tab to the right. You will adjust the trim tab in the direction that you're having the issue. In this case, you’re pulling to the right so we'll move this over to the right.
On the bottom - and this is going to be a little harder to see, there's actually some hatch marks from the manufacturers. Kind of like a sun valve. This is the zero degree, this is one click, two clicks, three clicks and so on. When you're adjusting your trim tab, make sure you're only doing it in one click increments. It doesn’t take a whole lot to correct the problem that you're experiencing - really important.
Also if you're having trouble with it pulling to the left - like a rotation engine or the twin engine configuration, same thing, you just want to bring this trim tab to the affected area. Now since we're going to talk about actually replacing our trim tab. We’re going take this completely off.
In the trim tab, even for you guys that leave your boats home on the trailers, you're still going to have to do this once every couple years. Each time you short see a little bit of wear and tear. This happens to be a brand new anode that we just put on. They have part numbers on the inside here. Another thing to put into your log book, or your GPS book, are the part numbers so you know exactly what model you have.
And when do you know it's time to change. This happens to be the anode that we took off. It tells that it's really starting to get beat up and it's starting to get nice and white and crusty which means it's losing all of its properties to test those electrolysis. We can see this sacrificial metal versus the outboard. This happens to be another one. The electrolysis got to the inside of it. We can tell here where it actually ate the entire bolt out of it.
When they start to show signs of wearing and tearing, or it's been longer than about two years, spend the 12 bucks and buy yourself a new one. So you saw exactly what we did. We took the 12mm socket, we simply unscrewed the bolt from the bottom of our anode.
When you have the new anode ready to go on, you simply line the new anode up with the boat already inside the motor housing. And we're going to set this one back exactly where it came from which is one click off of dead center, to the right. And just a 3/8 socket, everybody should have one of these in your toolbox, in your boat.
Let me give this thing a nice tug, not overly tight. A nice tug, and turn to make sure it goes on. Afterwards, just want to take, just hold on it or push. Make sure it's seated in there well and everything is right where it should be.
If you get the bolt in their crossways, it's not going to stay on and at some point. When it does finally come off, it's typically going to come up when you're pre propeller is turning at full speed and it could damage one of your ears. So you want to make sure this is good and secure.
Lastly, we're going to take the same old cap we took off and pop this guy right back in. So now that hole is concealed. And guys, it's simple as that. So for boating, don’t forget to check your anodes. As a matter of fact, when you get through watching this segment go outside and see what condition they're in. Thank you for watching.