N = 1984 K = 1985 J = 1986 H = 1987 G = 1988 F = 1989 D = 1990 P = 1991 Q = 1992 R = 1993 S = 1994 T = 1995 U = 1996 V = 1997 W = 1998 X = 1999 Y = 2000 Z = 2001 A = 2002 B = 2003 C = 2004 D = 2005
*Note: Starting in April 2005 (2006 Model Year and newer) Yamaha no longer designated model years at the end of the model number identification. The production date can be found on the transom bracket of post 2004 motors.
Tips on how to care for your Yamaha 6hp 4-stroke outboard engine, presented by Yamaha. ...read more
Dan, we have a lot of questions in Australia on how to transport boats properly when we are traveling. What are the main things we are looking for?
It’s pretty important that we take good care of our portable outboard when we are transporting it. There’s a few main points that we can learn for all outboard motors. Focusing on prevent water from getting into the engine. We want to prevent oil from leaking out into the car. And we want to prevent fuel from leaking out as well.
Once we’ve had the motor in the water. There is water in the exhaust section or lower area of the upper motor. Good idea is to once you’ve pulled it off the boat is to hold it upright for a few minutes so the water can drain out.
Never lift the outboard with the propeller higher than the outboard engine. In that case any water that remains in the exhaust area can run into the engine. And we don’t want water into our engine.
So after the oil, I think you mentioned about the fuel.
Nice portable outboards have their own fuel tank. The fuel has a vent on the cap here. We want to make sure that that is tight. A good practice is to turn the fuel tap off. Turn it off while the engine is running allowing the engine to stall out. What that will do is run out any residual fuel that may remain in the engine. To prevent that from leaking out as well.
We want to make sure that the orientation of the outboard is correct when we lie it down flat.
I noticed that on the back you have a curved handle so I’m assuming that prevents you from trying to lie it down that way. Therefor taking the carbon from the bottom.
They have thought a lot about that. Good selling point of this engine is that it can be laid down on all three sides. And not from that forth side.
Like all of Yamaha’s portable outboards the 6hp four-stroke is ergonomically designed to make lifting, carrying and storing the motor as easy as possible. Of course, placing the motor on a blanket or map is always a good idea too. Saving it from scratches and protecting your vehicle.
The 6hp 4-stroke Yamaha is equipped with four different manual tilt positions, to facilitate both shallow water operation and also to allow the leg to be lifted clear of the water for launch and recovery. Obviously these different tool positions are handy in operating in shallow waterways or coming into shore.
Another really neat feature of the 6hp 4-stroke Yamaha is the option it offers to attach an external fuel tank for a longer run for extended use.
To fit an external tank simply close the fuel tap for the built in tank, then attach the fuel line from the external tank to the fuel fitting on the front of the motor. As shown here. It is as simple as that. To greatly increase your operating range.
And then with the motors, the portable engines, I’m guessing there is a fairly good security risk at times when people are out and about.
The portable outboards are considered quite a prized items by thieves, and can be easily stolen, so there are a couple of preventative devices that Yamaha have available. One of them is this thumb screw lock. They prevent the thieves from getting to the thumb screws and undoing your outboard motor from your boat or wherever you are storing it. Very heavy stainless steel that can’t be cut through very easily. I think that would be a good deterrent in and of itself if a thieve were to see that. It also prevents your screw from unwinding and falling off your boat.
It is also important to take security for your outboard engine one step further by purchasing one of these individually coded Yamaha DNA anti-theft kits. Each kit contains a special tagging pin which is used to apply thousands of tiny, uniquely encoded nanotags to various areas of the motor. These tiny tags cannot be removed and are easily read under magnification. They make it simple for the police or boat brokers to instantly identify stolen outboards.
Choose clean, grease-free surfaces and don’t apply the nanotag emulsion to moving parts or load-bearing surfaces. The more areas you mark, the better. Once you’ve tag your motor with the DNA kit, apply the stickers provided to advertise the fact.
These are a great deterrent to thieves who know that it would be almost impossible to unseal the stolen motor.
To find out more about Yamaha’s wonderful little 6 hp 4-stroke engine, or any other of the motors in their range, be sure to visit their excellent website. read less
Checking Your Yamaha Outboard Oil (Video)
How to check the oil in your Yamaha outboard engine. ...read more
Although your 4-stroke outboard engine has much in common with an automobile engine, there are also significant differences, differences that affect the way you check its oil level.
An outboard motor literally stands at typical car engine’s configuration on end with a vertical crank shaft and horizontal cylinders. That means oil can pour behind the horizontal pistons and in a variety of casting services inside the block after the engine is shut down rather than draining it to the crank case like your car engine. Also, outboard motor operation is usually much different from most cars. It is common to expect extended high RPM operation at a set throttle position.
These factors mean that it is normal with some 4 stroke outboard. There is however no specification for how much oil consumption is normal so proper oil checking at regular intervals is extremely important. And fortunately, it’s not difficult to do.
In this example, we will be checking the oil level on F150TXR. Before checking the oil engine level, tilt the engine up to at least half of its total tilt range. Tilting the engine like this prior to checking the oil level is the only way you can be sure you get a true measure of the oil level.
Let the engine tilted up like this for at least five minutes. Now, tilt the engine down until it is level and proceed to check the oil. Remove the dip stick and wipe it off with a clean dry towel. Reinsert the dip stick all the way. Remove it again and inspect the oil level of the dip stick.
Dip sticks have markings to indicate the low and high levels. In this example, the dip stick has a checkered area indicating these high and low levels. If the oil level is indicated anywhere in the checkered area of the this dip stick, it means the engine has enough oil. It is not necessary to add oil to bring it up to the upper level.
Please note that there are different styles of dip sticks. Some of have this checkered area and others have drilled check holes indicating low and high. Regardless of the style of the dip stick, your outboard’s oil level needs to be between the high and low indicators of the dip stick.
If the oil level is below the L or low level, add some oil. If the oil level is above the H or high level, you’ll need to drain or evacuate some oil.
For tips on adding or removing oil from your outboard, consult your owner’s manual or contact your local authorized Yamaha dealer. read less
A step by step guide on how to change the oil and filter on a Yamaha outboard engine. ...read more
Hello everybody! How are you all doing today? In today's episode of DIY show, today we're going to be working on a Mannington Trotting. It's got a 250 Yamaha Four Stroke Outboard on it.
Today we're going to be doing a basic service on the outboard itself. We're going to be changing the oil filter. We're also going to change the fuel/water separator on it. We're also going to service the lower end.
I'm going to show all of you guys how to do all that. It's really easy to do with just few hand tools and save yourself a lot of money. So let's get on it.
Here are the stuffs we're going to need to service our outboard with. We got our lower unit gear case oil and I also got a couple of new sealant washers for the drain screws. This is our fuel/water separator. This is pretty neat. This is a Yamaha Oil Change Kit specifically for the F250 four- stroke. It's got the right amount of oil. It's got six-quartz oil. It's got your filter and your drain vault washer. It got everything you need. It's all in one little package here.
In that way there's no more guessing about how much oil you’re getting or if you're getting the right filter. I do like this. It's pretty neat.
Anytime I've done an oil filter change on a four stroke outboard, I like to hook the guard hose in it and run it for a little bit to get the motor warmed up. That way we can be sure we could get all that dirt out of there. We'll get that done and I'll show how to get the whole lot of it.
Drain vault is going to be on the lower part of the crank case, which will be right about here. We got to take this cover off to be able to get to that drain vault. There is a couple of screws that holds the crank case in place. There's one here, one up here, one down here and the rest of this snaps in with grommets. We'll take all those screws out and pull this cover off.
We'll loosen our 14mm hole drain vault. You can just hold a pan up here and catch the oil when it comes out. You need to be prepared to deal with about six quarts or so of oil. It holds a pretty fair amount.
The only thing I really don't like about these Yamaha outboards or the bigger ones like this is the location of the oil filters. They're a little difficult to get at but I'll show you where it's at. I'll show you how to get at it.
Oil filter is going to be up in the front of the motor. You'd see that or not but I will put my finger on it. It's that there. It started originally from the front with an oil filter hinge extending up there.
We'll catch a little bit of oil that comes from the bottom of it. I'll just stuff some rags under there. We'll catch that oil as it comes out and try not to make too much of a mess.
Alright I will fill our crank case with oil here. Top capacity for this outboard is going to be 5.1 quartz with oil and filter. What I'm going to do is I'll go ahead and just put four quarts in here then we'll start it up and running for a few minutes. Then we'll double check that oil and that way I can top it up and get it right to the full marker where it belongs. That way we'd all know we'll fill it. We'll have this just about right done. You know I never thought that I'd ever see the day that I'd have to have a dad gum step latter to work on an outboard motor.
While we have this engine going, I would like to take a few minutes to show you something else on this Yamaha Four Stroke. This got a plastic cover that covers up the fly wheel and the cams and the cam belts, and it just pops off some grommetts. You can set it aside. Here we could see the flat wheel, the starter ring and starter gear. Then you got your camps and your camp belt. This is a double-head camp V6 engine so you got the camp belt wrapped around here.
What you really want to be careful about is anytime that you got the engine counting off or just on a regular basis. It's a good idea to pull this off and check this for debris. In the South, we have real problem with dirt dabbers.
Dirt dabbers could build little mud in here. They'd get up in here. They'll build nasty things. Then when you start the motor up, it will take off across the lake with it. When you run the throttle up, dirt covering this can vibrate lose. Of course it will hit all these spinning parts and things like that. It turns into this big cloud of dust. It sucks it right through the motor and just causes all kinds of problems on the engine.
Also one of the things that it could do if the dirt dabber nest is solid enough, it actually gets down in the timing belt. It can actually cause the cog belt to jump a couple of cogs on the pulley. It gets your cans out of gear. That could even lead to beaten valves and all kinds of issues. Be sure to take this off every once in a while and inspect it.
If you do find dirt dabber nest, just take them off. If it's really bad, you can take the garden hose and rinse it off real good just make sure you get all that debris and trash out of there. It will save you a lot of headache down the road.
Let me show you how to change our fuel and water separator. Basically it should suck a big spin in the whole filter. What we're going to do is essentially we're going to get it. We're kind of turn it by hand. Then I've got my little container here that will stick under to catch any spillage happening when we spin this off. We just have to very carefully break that lose. There will be a little bit of fuel coming out there. It's nothing major.
I've got a new filter here and I've filled a light coating all over the ring. We simply spin it on. It's probably good that you change this every season especially out when we have to deal with fuel death and all that. You have all kinds of water and fuel separation issues. It's a good insurance to put under one of those on very spring. It will save you a lot of headache on that road of fuel problems and that kind of stuff.
Alright this looks like five and a half quartz is going to take to get us up to the full mark. After I ran the motor for a couple of minutes, I went ahead and look around the whole filter and things. We just kind of make sure we don't have any oil leaks. We checked our fuel and water separator to make sure there aren't any leaks going on there.
We've pretty much got it all done. I'll put the top back up on it and we'll have this done. Alright guys let's go complete our service on the Yamaha F250 Outboard. I hope that was a helpful information for you. Drop me a comment down here at the comment section below and as always I appreciate you all watching. You all have a good day. read less