1988 OMC cobra 3.0 model 302AMRGDP Engine Issue

Guru5997

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Aug 12, 2010
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I bought this boat about 2 weeks ago and have been having some issues that I would really appreciate some help with. When I first got the boat it ran fine out of water but in water it wouldn't start. I replaced the exhaust flapper valve and got it to start in water but it eventually dies when idling in the water (not usually out of water though). I tried keeping it in gear and was able to drive around for about 10 minutes until the boat suddenly lost power and died. I took it home and it started after about 30 minutes out of water. A few days later I took it out in the water again and it drove for 10 minutes and died again in the same way.

After that it wouldn't start and I wasn't getting a spark so I cleaned all of the connections in my ignition circuit, replaced the spark plugs, the spark plug wires, the ignition coil, the ignition switch and the assist solenoid (starter relay).
It now starts some of the time but not every time and idles pretty rough. I've gotten the battery checked and it's good. I've checked the starter solenoid and it seems good. The contact points in the distributor seem good. The voltage loss across the entire ignition circuit should be no more than 3.2v, but mine is closer to 4.5-5v and I can't quite figure out where that drop is coming from. I tested both the smaller leads connecting to the alternator (the "ex/exc" and the "S" leads) and they came up about .5-.7 volts less than the battery (my manual said they should have the same voltage as the battery so maybe that's it, but I'm reluctant to pull apart that wiring without hearing a person's opinion). Also someone replaced the wire from the ignition switch to the the assist solenoid bypassing the neutral start switch (the switch in the remote control that prevents starting the engine in gear).
I've done 2 oil/filter changes as there was water in the oil which I'm hoping was from the broken exhaust flapper. The second time that I drove it for 10 minutes the flapper was fixed and there doesn't appear to be any more water in the oil currently.
I also put a new fuel/water separator on there, but I'm not sure how long the fuel had been sitting before I got the boat, so maybe it's gone bad and I need to replace all of the fuel.
My current problems are that the engine sometimes doesn't start, it dies when idling in the water, and if I drive it around it eventually dies at speed. I'm not sure if it's electrical or fuel related or both, though I've had more immediate electrical problems.
I've looked at these iboat forums a lot throughout the process so far and they've helped me get past a lot of the issues I've encountered up to this point and I could really use some specific help going forward. I really appreciate the time anyone takes to read this and am thankful for any help and suggestions.
 

Gary H NC

Fleet Admiral
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Dec 1, 2005
Messages
8,972
Re: 1988 OMC cobra 3.0 model 302AMRGDP Engine Issue

The flapper valve will not put water down the exhaust and into the oil even if it was missing unless you take a big wave to the stern.

I would start by draining the fuel tank,changing filters again and cleaning the carb.
Then a compression and leak down test.
Something has me thinking a cracked block or head,exhaust manifolds bad.

Never buy a boat without a lake test. It could be running on half of its cylinders on the water hose and sound ok.

I know,too late now but lesson learned the hard way.:redface:
 

Guru5997

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Aug 12, 2010
Messages
5
Re: 1988 OMC cobra 3.0 model 302AMRGDP Engine Issue

Thanks a lot for the quick response. Ya I forgot to mention, I had a boat mechanic do a compression test and it was a little over 100 in each cylinder (It's supposed to be about 130 for my engine). He said that these numbers were low but not low enough to indicate a cracked block (at least around the cylinders). He also said that this particular block is known to be a tough one and that he'd only seen one cracked in the 20 years he'd been doing it. So I'm keeping my fingers crossed that it's not cracked. I'm not sure how long it was sitting before I got it, but I'm kinda hoping that it just accumulated some water from sitting for a while. Is that possible? I did run it for 10 minutes on the water and couldn't see any water in the oil after the valve was fixed. how long would it take to show up if it was a significant crack

Also, I realize this is a dumb question but what's the most efficient way to get gas out of the tank. Should I just siphon it out of the filler tube, or should I disconnect the tank completely so I can see if there's gunk in there?

Ya this was my first boat and I definitely should have driven it on water before buying it.
 
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