Motor Locking up

307 Sea Ray

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Jul 31, 2017
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I just bought a 1975 Sea Ray SRV 220. The previous owner had a shop put in a rebuilt motor then only took it out once and parked it for the last 10 years. When I took it out on a test run I didn't even get out of the no wake zone and the motor locked up. After being towed in and got the trailer in the water to load it the motor started and drove on the trailer.

The motor is a 350 chevy. I took it home and replaced the thermostat with a 165. Started the motor in the yard and with it in neutral ran about 15 min. with a temp gun the hottest temp I could find was 168. When I took it out of neutral there was a couple clicking sounds and the motor locked up again. When the motor locks up it will not turn over. Gave the motor about 30 mins and it will start again.

I am just not sure where to look on what would be locking the motor up.

So far I have pulled the exhaust manifolds. They have 3 water ports that look nice and open. I pulled the main water pump to check the impeller. It has a steel impeller that looks good. The oil was changed and there was no water or metal shavings in it or the filter.

What am I not thinking of to look at or test?
 

alldodge

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The motor runs fine in neutral but when its put in gear it stops the motor. If this is the case then the problem is in the drive not the motor
 

307 Sea Ray

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Ok I can agree with that point. I have not removed a drive before but not scared to do it either. What should I try looking for that would bind the motor up?
 

307 Sea Ray

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If this is the case and I should be looking at the drive should I place this question under a different topic and rename it?
 

Scott Danforth

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your posting in the OMC section. I know that early SeaRays had OMC's. if you do have an OMC stringer drive, then you would also have an electric shift drive.

that beggs the question, what drive do you have?
 

307 Sea Ray

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I was actually just looking through that link from the top of the page! In the #4 the link for pictures changing the impeller does not work.

I will change that oil tonight and see how it looks. The prop moves freely. I moved it yesterday and had to show my daughter to look out for it after she wacked her head.

After its period of binding the motor and the motor starts again it will shifts in and out of FWD/REV good. I did not check it when it was bound up. When it stranded me on the water I know I shifted to neutral just fine and it does not feel like anything binding up while shifting.
 

307 Sea Ray

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Ok thank you. That is a good link. I will see how much I can get apart tonight. After I have it apart and see what I see I will update you guys.
Thank you
 

kenny nunez

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Watch what comes out of the upper gearcase when you drain it. That may be where he problem is.
 

307 Sea Ray

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Well I got the drive taken off last night. I pulled the plug in the middle and nothing came out. I pulled the plug on the bottom and it just was dirty oil. I did not see metal or water in it. Hopefully I will be able to pull it apart tonight and see what the insides look like.

I did put it in FWD and could not turn the prop. In REV I could turn the prop one way but not the other.
 

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kenny nunez

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No oil in the upper is really BAD NEWS. If that is what caused the locking up the upper is trashed and you will probably need a replacement.
 

southkogs

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Pull your upper off the lower unit, and try turning the ball gear by hand (or with a tool) to see if it all rotates. If it spins like it should, swap your impeller and change the lube. The upper should spin reasonably easily.
 

307 Sea Ray

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I will see what it looks like and see if everything spins like you say it should tonight. I am crossing my fingers.
I am planning on replacing the impeller while it is apart, but I figured I better look at the impeller to make sure I order the right one the 1st time. If ya know what I mean!
Hopefully if all goes good tonight I will be able to let you guys know tomorrow how everything looked and I'll bring pictures.
 

307 Sea Ray

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Well I got the upper pulled apart last night. I found a bearing blown apart. Everything actually doesnt look bad. All gears have all the teeth with no markings! I have ordered a new set of seals and bearings for the upper. Now to clean it up and get the new parts installed!
I am just having a issue pulling the ball gear off so I can get to that bearing.

Thank you guys for the help and letting me know to look at the drive and quit thinking of motor issues.
 

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kenny nunez

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Bearing replacement. There are a lot of shims in the gearcase. The one behind the rear bearing in the case may or may be trashed if the bearing spun in the case. If this happened the case is gone.
The ones in the pinion housing are under the gear. The large shims on the pinion housing should be in good condition. The plastic ones under the front bearing retainer are to pre load the rear bearing. Without the shimming tools you are really at the disantvantage. The seals in the pinion housing must be installed after the bearings have been fitted and the correct preload is set. The seals must be installed with the special seal protecter and the special mandrel that sets the seals at the correct depth. After everything is back together the case must be pressure to 15 lbs and vacuum tested to 10 in. otherwise you will be doing this job again.
I hate to have to tell you this but those are the facts. All stern drives need special tools and OMC probably needed the most.
 

southkogs

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You might also do a quick look around for an upper that matches your ratio. There's still plenty of 'em floating around out there. It might be easier than getting all the tools and fixing it yourself.
 
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