Even if they put a new long block, there's still exhaust manifolds and stuff that could be damaged. Then there is the plumbing on the boat that's probably damaged. Good to walk away.....
Exactly. As a teenager the first one I opened up was scary. After I got a look inside, I thought what the heck? There's not much in here to go wrong. A kit and checks of the specs, good to go. I was 14 then. Now 65. rebuilt to many count since then.
A friend of mine got divorces and had the aluminum canoe. She said she wanted it so he ran it over with the tractor flattening it. He said come and get it. She pulls in see's it and leaves.....lol
Yeah , I have 5 boats in the backyard at the moment. Also the duck boat at the cabin. And the one I'm restoring at the shop. She don't say much but I suppose it won't be long.....
Yup you trim the drive down so its level, put oil in the lower plug till it comes out the top. Quickly stick the bottom plug in after you install the top one. Use new gaskets at every change. I prefer the paper gaskets, I've seen a few of them yellow ones leak a bit. Also when draining and...
It just pulls apart. Then remove the setscrews and install the new one. When changing the motor, sometimes the motor shaft is a different diameter. You may have to contact the company and tell them the measurements to get the correct sizes on both ends.
Run it as is. I had an old outboard years ago that ran ok but the lower actually had a leak. Old Elgin if I remember correctly. Before the internet parts were hard to come by. I'd dump the oil after every outing and have a milkshake, re-fill and check/fill before launching. Used that thing for 5...
Do you have fenders in that area? Almost looks like it's been rubbed a bit. We have some at the marina that have those cloth covers over the fenders, the cloth collects dust/dirt and rubs the gelcoat like sandpaper.
Yeah, them long runs are a pain at time. If a dip in the hose it won't fill properly. Mine is a straight shot to the tank, and the vent has the loop to stop water intrusion.
There is numbers on your carb, that should lead you to the correct cfm. And kit also.
Also, be sure to replace the float, it usually doesn't come with the carb kit. If it's the brass float they are usually good. The plastic ones can cause issues.
I did something similar, but before gutting I measured from the floor to the outer edge in several places and marked/documented those measurements. glad I did. I adjusted all of it before stuffing the stringers in. She's good to go but in reality, I should have built the cradle.
