Your negative wire is getting positive voltage from somewhere. If it's wired like you say (and correctly at the stereo) I can't think of how that could happen. The stereo may have a few positive inputs (main power, remote wire, memory power). I'd try disconnecting everything else first. Also...
The slave or the actual starter solenoid?
Sounds like your wires are getting hot from a bad connection, increasing the resistance more. When you've tried starting with the key and it's having trouble, does it still start right away when you jump the slave? And by hard to start, you mean it isn't...
Not necessarily. The gauge reads max pressure in the cylinder.
Stuck valve, worn valve guides, worn cylinder/rings, broken rings. Sticking valve, broken rings, piston slap could cause a racket
Typically a bad exhaust manifold leaking into the cylinders. Might try a cylinder drop test, though might be hard to figure out if it's running that rough. Tach issues make it sound electrical though. Try disconnecting gray tach wire from coil.
If there's a hole, you can get behind it. He doesn't have access to the underside. Big difference. Difficult if not impossible to fill a 1" hole with epoxy without some support.
If it's the ignition sensor, that's $40 and 30 minutes like scott said. If it's the ICM, that's $700 and 30 minutes of time. Either way, I'm suspect of anybody selling something that just needs an easy fix (why wouldn't you fix it?). I'd
1) Verify that you're not getting a spark. Assume that...
Sounds like you have a short to voltage somewhere. If it's on the buzzer sensor side, that would explain the buzzing (and who knows what weird things it would do with the power on). If it's on the ignition side (stereo wired wrong, etc), it would take another fault (short to ground) in the...
I'd cut something that you can get behind the hole and fasten it to the underside with 5200 or whatever. Then depending on thickness of plywood either fill remaining gap with 5200 or use a hole saw to cut a plug of plywood and goop in with 5200.
Well, first thing is you need to see where you lose power transmission. I.e., when you turn the wheel, does the steering cable move at the stern? Then does the linkage move on the outdrive? Etc
I think he's talking about the o ring between drive and Bell housing. That just needs to stay in place while assembling. I usually just put a dab of grease on there
There's plenty on Craigslist, look for $1k junk boats. Even get something with a cracked block. I'd assume that any motor from a trashed boat is also junk and needs a rebuild. Mine had cracked block and manifolds unknown to me when I bought it. Got a truck block from the pull a part for $180...
