1972 OMC 155 I/O overheating positive battery terminal and feed to solenoid.

[hunt2labs]

Starter will not move when ignition key is turned. Left key in "on" position, and notice overheating positive battery terminals and hot wire that feeds starter solenoid.
Solenoid was replaced 2 years ago. Checked terminal connections and battery selector connections, checked wires for breaks in starter area.
Is this most likely a dead starter that is grounding out?
This happened a week after I gave the carpet a good washing and did get the engine wet.
Should I look for more open wires that may be grounding out?
How do I test the connections for issues?

 

[gm280]

Unless you turn the key to the crank position I don't see any connection to the starter. So maybe you have something else draining the battery and it has to be a pretty good drain to heat up the battery terminal. I would certainly trace the wires from the battery to the starter solenoid to see where the problem is. The only way the solenoid could be allowing current through to the starter is if it is stuck closed. And that would make the starter spin constantly...

 

[Bondo]

and notice overheating positive battery terminals and hot wire that feeds starter solenoid.

Ayuh,.... Heat means resistance, so ya got Bad wires, or more likely corroded connections,.....

Where ever the Heat is, is where it's needs Cleanin' to Shiny metal Clean,....

 

[hunt2labs]

So, I will clean up connections from battery to solenoid before I try anything else.

 

[southkogs]

Also - I believe there should be a fuse running down the starboard side of the engine in the wire harness. Not 100% sure where it is on yours, but if you really sogged it up back there, you may have blown that.

 

[hunt2labs]

Thanks for that info on the fuse. I pulled the harness connection where the plugs meet on the engine after checking that all battery and contact points were good. After pulling the harness plug apart at the engine, I no longer have the "hot" wires when I put voltage to the solonoid.
I also bypassed my battery selector and went directly to the engine grounding point with a new cable as well as with a new cable to the positive feed connection on the soleniod.
Time to get back under the dashboard and see what the heck is grounding out up there. I find it hard to believe that a wire went bad inside of the harness that has not been moved in many years.

 

[hunt2labs]

If I bypassed the harness and put power directly to the solenoid, shouldn't I have send power through to the starter?

 

[hunt2labs]

Still heating up the positive (red) wire from the solenoid as well as the negative going to engine ground.

I pulled the instrument panel to check connections-all appear fine, no fuses blown on dash, no inline fuse (that I could find in harness).

I pulled the positive lead to the alternator voltage meter on the dash and eliminated the "hot" wires issue at the engine.

So, can a voltage meter short out somehow or is it more likely to be down the line with another wire?

 

[southkogs]

When you turn the key to start, does it sound like the starter trying like it wants to go? Or is it just the solenoid clicking on you?

 

[hunt2labs]

No click-no anything. Just sends current through to the solenoid.

 

[hunt2labs]

Well,

I got out the hammer and tapped the solenoid and starter and well, no more hot wires and it is turning over.

So did I move a brush or what did I do? Or I moved a wire I could not see grounding it out under the dashboard. Fingers Crossed.

 

[southkogs]

... So did I move a brush or what did I do?

Hard to tell.

Though, I'd say swap the solenoid (cheap) and have yer' starter rebuilt (not as cheap, but cheaper than a new starter). Better'n having it schmutz out on you on the lake.

 

[Bondo]

I also bypassed my battery selector and went directly to the engine grounding point with a new cable

Ayuh,..... Donno what you've got goin' on, But,.....

There should be No ground wires at All at the battery selector switch,.... it controls Only the Positive(+) leg,....

Grounds 'tween the batteries should be common to the motor's block, or buss bars,...

Maybe ya oughta go up to the Electrical forum, 'n take a refresher course in boat electrics in the stickies at the top of that forum,....

 

[hunt2labs]

I must not have been clear when typing this earlier. Obviously there are no negative going to the battery switch. Ground goes from negative battery terminal (jumped to the 2nd battery). Common from battery switch to solenoid.

Nothing has changed in wiring since I got the boat except adding a couple of radios to the bow power supply panel.

I cannot figure this one out.