1972 OMC 155 Stringer-No reverse

[Redrig]

Re: 1972 OMC 155 Stringer-No reverse

Now that this puppy is awaiting replacement or repair, dare I delve into the impeller??
That seems to require a bit more skill or tools than I may have.

Now is absolutely the time to change that impeller and grease splines on the driveshaft, its simple and no special tools are required.

what you have done up to this point with that magnet is much harder than putting in a new impeller.

 

[hunt2labs]

Re: 1972 OMC 155 Stringer-No reverse

Thanks for the information.
Now, what source(s) has the gasket kits and impeller for this thing?
Anyone know how to go about finding the part numbers?

 

[Redrig]

Re: 1972 OMC 155 Stringer-No reverse

right here

BRP -- Parts Catalogs

get the part numbers from there, then google or ebay them.

 

[hunt2labs]

Re: 1972 OMC 155 Stringer-No reverse

Now is absolutely the time to change that impeller and grease splines on the driveshaft, its simple and no special tools are required.

what you have done up to this point with that magnet is much harder than putting in a new impeller.

Well, either I screwed up reinstalling the impeller or my thermostat just quit on me.

Here's the latest:

-I pulled the the impeller and it looked as if it had been recently replaced so I reinstalled it. I cleaned up the plate, sealed both sides with Permatech #2 per manual, used recommended 3M gasket product on the grease seal and put that back together.

-I purchased a replacement lower unit that had a broken wire in the mid-drive area. Lower unit was supposed to have been working when last operated. However the wire to the magnets was cut and I used the upper section of my original wire harness and soldered, liquid-taped, plastic electric taped, shrink tubed and sealed that with liquid tape at the ends.

-Engine started well and idled fine. However I do not have forward gear working! I do have reverse working.
Engine seemed to run quite hot (temp gauge on panel does not appear to work any longer so I cannot confirm temp).
Engine no longer idles-stalls when put into gear.

-To make matters worse, while pulling thermostat to inspect it, the regulator located to the left of thermostat (which was held on with old brittle plastic zip ties) broke off and the smaller inner coil broke off where it was rusted through at the contact points.

-So now I sit with one lower unit the goes into reverse and another unit that has forward.
-An engine that may not have the impeller working correctly. The repair manual states that exhaust gas may enter if the impeller unit is not correctly sealed.
-And a broken regulator that I cannot locate a replacement for in any OMC schematic. (Where do I find one of these?)

I guess I can pull the unit with the working reverse, pull the magnet and spring assembly, and relocate that to the lower unit with the working forward gear after rewiring the dang wires.

At this point, I am ready to send this thing to a mechanic I found an hour away who "cut his teeth" on these outdrives.

Oh well....at least the replacement lower unit I bought only cost $100 and came with a whole box of related parts and bolts.

 

[hunt2labs]

Re: 1972 OMC 155 Stringer-No reverse

I gave up and took the two lower units to that mechanic last month. He was jammed up with work and never got to my boat so I picked it up last week. I found another lower unit and installed it. Ran the boat today with the "new" lower on it and am quite happy with the latest addition to my boat.
I do have to put a new thermostat on as well as voltage regulator-unless someone can tell me which electronic ignition system to use.
Can I bypass the voltage regulator if I install a Pertronix ignitor?

 

[Boomyal]

Re: 1972 OMC 155 Stringer-No reverse

......Can I bypass the voltage regulator if I install a Pertronix ignitor?

Some times these projects do turn into odysseys, especially when it is the first time you tackle a specific job.

I think what you mean is a ballast resister, not a voltage regulator. And yes, if you go with a Pertronix, it wants a full 12 volts. Just be sure you get the Pertronix coil to go with it. Your OEM coil is made to run on reduced voltage so a constant 12 volts will overheat it.

 

[hunt2labs]

Re: 1972 OMC 155 Stringer-No reverse

Some times these projects do turn into odysseys, especially when it is the first time you tackle a specific job.

I think what you mean is a ballast resister, not a voltage regulator. And yes, if you go with a Pertronix, it wants a full 12 volts. Just be sure you get the Pertronix coil to go with it. Your OEM coil is made to run on reduced voltage so a constant 12 volts will overheat it.

Thanks for the info!
The motor diagram shows a "voltage regulator" in the same place the part I broke used to be-when looking at the front or bow-side of the motor, this part is located to the left of the thermostat. It was a thin wire coil (spring) wrapped around a ceramic insulator with a second smaller coil underneath.
This is my recollection from the last time I saw the part-the mechanic referenced earlier referred to it as a voltage regulator as well. He now has "ownership" of the part and is located too far away to drive to retrieve.
I'll look into the Pertronix ignitor-it's cost is not much more than the voltage regulator.

 

[Boomyal]

Re: 1972 OMC 155 Stringer-No reverse

Well, it does "regulate voltage", after a fashion, but it is a resistor to lower the voltage to the points to keep them from frying. It is not 'regulating' voltage from a generating source like an alternator. I am assuming that is what you are dealing with, especially if the wire goes from the device up to the coil positive.

Automotive ignition ballast resistors are pretty universal and cheap. Here is a link to a style similar to what my '75 OMC 302 190 hp motor came with. However cheap, you will be much happier going with the Pertronix Ignitor.

Heavy-Duty External Ballast Resistor for Ignition Coils, Points and Electronic Ignition Systems

btw, I do not know what kind of 'electronic ignition system' that the URL is speaking of. Some may want reduced voltage but Pertronix does want the full 12 volts.

 

[hunt2labs]

Re: 1972 OMC 155 Stringer-No reverse

Thanks once again for the help. You were right on the money in that I need to replace the ballast resistor not a voltage regulator.
So now that I know I might as well be switching to the Pertronix Ignitor, will I need the ballast resistor you pointed me towards?
Does the Pertronix Ignitor and coil system regulate the volts going back to the battery at higher RPM?