Re: 70 hp choke problem
eggy, first off the spring you are looking for is inside the choke solenoid. It pushes the plunger outward. Manifold suction also pulls them open. But read on. They are SUPPOSED to stay shut if the motor is cold and the key is still turned on. HOWEVER, there is a service bulletin telling how to convert that to what you are thinking it should do. To explain:
That motor has a two stage choke solenoid. Notice the two wires coming out of it. The first stage is activated by a temperature switch in the exhaust manifold, and the second stage is controlled by the driver at the control. When you turn the key on, power is fed to the first stage and the choke closes lightly or partially. When you also operate the choke toggle, the second stage is activated and the choke slams shut tightly for starting.
OK, normal cold starting is: Turn the key on, operate the choke toggle, and start the motor, then release the choke toggle. The chokes will remain partally closed. That is the warm-up stage, and the chokes are preventing most of the sneezing and stalling that normally accompanies a cold start. When it is warm enough, the switch in the exhaust manifold opens, and the chokes open fully.
About the service bulletin: Everything I just described is fine. Except under certain conditions the warm-up stage would be functioning when it is undesireable, making it hard to restart a partially warmed up motor. So the modification described in the bulletin converts it to a choke entirely under the operator's control, no more warm-up stage. Now the operator must "bump" the choke toggle to stop the sneezing and keep it running till it is warm enough to keep going on its own. So, question is which do you want? Are you having restart problems? If not, probably is best to leave it as designed.
If you want to convert it, there are two wires on the solenoid, a purple with white stripe, and a purple with yellow stripe. Both go to a terminal strip that has a whole bunch of wires. The two choke wires are matched up with two more wires of like colors. What you want to do is remove the purple/yellow SOLENOID wire from its screw, and place it under the screw containing the purple/white wires. The other purple/yellow wire on the strip will no longer be connected to anything, and you will have two purple/white and one purple/yellow wires under the other screw. Now the choke will only close if you deliberately tell it to close. I might ad this--do exactly what I described, and don't merely disconnect the purple/yellow. The purple/white by itself won't close the choke tightly enough.
Whew, that was a lot of typing. But at least it is factual and the truth.
