mhicks1986
Recruit
- Joined
- Jul 5, 2017
- Messages
- 1
Hello all! I picked up an 87 Sundowner 195 with an OMC cobra/4.3 2bbl. The previous owner had installed a pertronix ignitor and a cdi 123-9898-P shift assist module. I'm having some running issues and after reading countless pages, the service manuals, etc. I decided to jump in and see what's going on. I began peeling back tape to reveal the hackjob that was performed and I would like some input before I begin remedying the situation.
First thing I noticed was the alternator is not the original. It has been replaced with a gm 2 wire and the "exciter" wire is just floating in the harness not attached to anything. The two wires that would have originally been attached to the alternator, (above the oem splice) were cut, with the red/purple being wired into an electric choke thermostat on the hot air choke. Now from the best I can gather on the schematics, the purple key-on wire that feeds the splice is then fed back to the positive coil post through the PU/R "resistor wire". This is lugged with the PU/B wire to that goes to the starter for 12v at start with points (can I remove this?). There is also an orange wire that comes off coil positive to what looks like a sending unit on the manifold which has the other side attached to the hour meter in the storage compartment above the transom. Low and behold the red wire on the pertronix is attached to the coil positive as well and only receiving 9v do to the resister wire.
I hope I'm not losing anyone, lol. I know I need to hook the pertronix to a full 12v source. My questions are:
1. Is this alternator safe to use if I hook up the exciter wire to a keyed source?
2. I have 2 ohms on the coil and 2 in the resistor wire, should I keep this to power the coil (not aftermarket) to allow the cdi shift assist to work or is 4ohm too much?
3. Should I just get a 3ohm 12v coil?
4. Where is the hour meter supposed to be hooked to?
5. The rebuilt carb has no markings at all. It appears to be a Rochester. If the electric choke works can I block off the hot air port on the manifold?
This is our first boat, my girlfriend just bought it Monday. It's in great shape, just needs some tlc. I promised her it wouldn't become a project :facepalm::lol:
First thing I noticed was the alternator is not the original. It has been replaced with a gm 2 wire and the "exciter" wire is just floating in the harness not attached to anything. The two wires that would have originally been attached to the alternator, (above the oem splice) were cut, with the red/purple being wired into an electric choke thermostat on the hot air choke. Now from the best I can gather on the schematics, the purple key-on wire that feeds the splice is then fed back to the positive coil post through the PU/R "resistor wire". This is lugged with the PU/B wire to that goes to the starter for 12v at start with points (can I remove this?). There is also an orange wire that comes off coil positive to what looks like a sending unit on the manifold which has the other side attached to the hour meter in the storage compartment above the transom. Low and behold the red wire on the pertronix is attached to the coil positive as well and only receiving 9v do to the resister wire.
I hope I'm not losing anyone, lol. I know I need to hook the pertronix to a full 12v source. My questions are:
1. Is this alternator safe to use if I hook up the exciter wire to a keyed source?
2. I have 2 ohms on the coil and 2 in the resistor wire, should I keep this to power the coil (not aftermarket) to allow the cdi shift assist to work or is 4ohm too much?
3. Should I just get a 3ohm 12v coil?
4. Where is the hour meter supposed to be hooked to?
5. The rebuilt carb has no markings at all. It appears to be a Rochester. If the electric choke works can I block off the hot air port on the manifold?
This is our first boat, my girlfriend just bought it Monday. It's in great shape, just needs some tlc. I promised her it wouldn't become a project :facepalm::lol:
