89 Evinrude 150 XP failing spark test on 2 cylinders

[brusk]

As recommended on another post of mine I should test spark on all 6 cylinders to make sure it's arcing like it should. The top and bottom cylinders on the starboard bank won't even arc across the spark plug. The engine does start, idle and seem to run smooth so I can't imagine that it doesn't have spark all the time. I've swapped ignition wires from one bank to the other to ensure it's not the coil packs and when I do those cylinders have no spark so it seems to be that the CDI isn't sending a signal to those two cylinders. The engine has a new Stator/rectifier, CDI, coilpacks and plugs.

 

[emdsapmgr]

Re: 89 Evinrude 150 XP failing spark test on 2 cylinders

That engine will seem to run just fine on the trailer when firing only 3, 4 or 5 plugs. There is no backpressure. You need all 6 firing when running in the lake with the prop 20" underwater. You've replaced most of the ignition components-I assume when you say CDI, that you mean the power pack. The only item not replaced is the timer base. You should test it with a special "peak reading" voltmeter. I believe it should output a minimum of 0.2 volts when cranking. [The rectifier does not interact with the ignition side of the engine's electronics. It's part of the charging system.] Your engine has the special high capacity charging system and the vented flywheel. Those special flywheels are problematic. The magnets are glued into the inside of the outer lip of that flywheel. They frequently come loose and can cause running issues. While not related to your ignition problem you may want to check to make sure they are still glued in place.

 

[brusk]

Re: 89 Evinrude 150 XP failing spark test on 2 cylinders

That engine will seem to run just fine on the trailer when firing only 3, 4 or 5 plugs. There is no backpressure. You need all 6 firing when running in the lake with the prop 20" underwater. You've replaced most of the ignition components-I assume when you say CDI, that you mean the power pack. The only item not replaced is the timer base. You should test it with a special "peak reading" voltmeter. I believe it should output a minimum of 0.2 volts when cranking. [The rectifier does not interact with the ignition side of the engine's electronics. It's part of the charging system.] Your engine has the special high capacity charging system and the vented flywheel. Those special flywheels are problematic. The magnets are glued into the inside of the outer lip of that flywheel. They frequently come loose and can cause running issues. While not related to your ignition problem you may want to check to make sure they are still glued in place.

Actually I did forget to mention the timer base had been replaced as well. I read though that the engine needs to be spinning at least 250 RPM to properly do this test. I can't be sure of that so I'll recharge the battery and make sure all the plugs are out and try it again. It always has run decent on the water even when I wasn't able to get any spark from it in the garage.

Do I have to take the flywheel off to look at the magnets?

 

[brusk]

Re: 89 Evinrude 150 XP failing spark test on 2 cylinders

I've played around with it some more using some online manuals and found that there was a wiring issue at the plug between the power pack and the timer base for #5. Now I have known good spark on 2-6 and I know that the coil and wire is good on #1. I'm not sure what testing I'm supposed to be doing from here. I've tested the resistance of the DVA? (the wires on the coil packs) back through the power pack and to the wires leading to the timer base and have the same 100 or so Ohm across all 6 wires. I tried to test for voltage on all 6 at the coil pack but the numbers I was seeing were so quick and all over the place I'm not sure if I can do it with a standard voltmeter. Not sure where to go now for this last cylinder.

 

[emdsapmgr]

Re: 89 Evinrude 150 XP failing spark test on 2 cylinders

Sounds as if you've found the problem on #5. Yes, that engine makes it's own ignition voltage-basically the starter needs to spin the crank at least 250 rpm's to fire the plugs. That's with the plugs in the engine. A weak/low battery could result in slow cranking and no fire. In addition to the .2 volts required output on the timer base, these additional cranking volts are required: charge coil should output 200 volts. To make these measurements, you really need to have a peak-reading voltmeter, or you'll get the random voltages you are seeing. You'll check between the A and B connector and the C and D connector pins of the two stator leads. Testing the power pack output voltage requires additional test equipment. The factory manual is extremely helpful when diagnosing these ignition problems. If you don't have one, you can try this website: cdielectronic.com as an alternative. They have some very helpful troubleshooting. Yes, you have to pull the flywheel to check the magnets, though they should be visible from the top of the engine with a small mirror. You can get an original factory manual from the original publisher: outboardbooks.com Did you every try cranking it in the dark? You can see any voltage shorting to ground very easily.

 

[clanton]

Re: 89 Evinrude 150 XP failing spark test on 2 cylinders

This engine should have a Quick Start timer base, which has 12 sensors, 6 for start and 6 for run. You need to know which set you are testing. You could have 6 good sparks at cold cranking, then when warmup, could loose 1 or more of the run sensors, or 4/5 start sensors working, then when engine warms 6 working.


Quick Start will shift the timing 6 degrees retard after warmup. Timing is advanced 6 degrees for starting.

 

[brusk]

Re: 89 Evinrude 150 XP failing spark test on 2 cylinders

Sounds like I better order that manual then and start testing everything one at a time. Even though pretty much everything is basically brand new.