cutting partial stringer and adding 2 bulkheads

[JASinIL2006]

Quick question fellas , So I have a few new pieces of deck to be adding around the ski locker and bilge area.

1. What do I put on top of the stringers when laying down the deck ?

I used peanut butter, pretty thick and hairy.

]2. I have routed the edges of the deck where it meets the bilge , what will wrap best around that 90 degree ?

I found 1708 to be WAY easier to use, especially around a radius. No question, I'd use 1708.

3. lastly , what do I do at the seams of the deck ? my initial plans are to cut the seams at 45's and then fill the "valley" with peanut butter and then glass over the top with 1.5 CSM ,almost like a drywall seam , will that work ?

Are you talking about butt joints, i.e., seams between sections of decking (rather than where the deck meets the hull)? If you mean butt joints, I filled them with peanut butter and then glassed over the whole deck. If you're referring to the joint between deck and hull, filling with PB and then tabbing with 1708 works great.

 

[Redrig]

Are you talking about butt joints, i.e., seams between sections of decking

Yes. I apologize , butt joints. from the existing deck to my new deck transitions.

 

[DeepBlue2010]

Sorry , I am not following you here.

To explain , I have cut just a portion of my deck off to access what is underneath the deck and add a storage locker, I ran into a stringer that I wasnt expecting to be there and had to change my inital ski locker plans , see earlier in the thread.

but anyways, I now know what is under there and the forward probably 2/3 of the deck is stock and untouched , I just need to mate the " new deck pieces " around the ski locker up and to the existing deck and hopefully make a nice clean transition. Does that make sense ?

and thanks for the response and tips on the other questions.

Looking at your picture, I thought you are talking about the edges that will be touching the hull. if you are patching an area that was cut in the existing deck, your plan would work fine. I would also add a cleat under there that is bolted "not screwed". I would cut it from a composite material like Starboard so I don't worry about sealing and rot. But this is just me though. the 45 bevel and the 1708 (done right) should hold fine

 

[Redrig]

yeah , sorry deepblue , that just dawned on me , I had you confused. Sorry I was talking about the deck butt joints.

I have been studying the tabbing process to the hull and have found lots of info on that , just not the deck butt joints. So thanks and my mistake on the terms I was using.

 

[Woodonglass]

How will your deck be finished? Gelcoat, Paint, Carpet??? What does the existing deck have for a surface coating? How thick is your decking plywood? What's the span between the stringers/bulkheads? How much sq footage of new decking are you installing?

 

[Redrig]

The plan for the boat is this .

It was ugly late 70s carpet and vinyl in there , I was going to add new flooring regardless and I always wanted more storage in her so I figured I would explore this ski locker idea while she was under going this cosmetic makeover . here are some of the before pics so you have an idea





and here is where I am currently at

I have removed basically the last 4 feet of the deck. I was goign to try for some tackle boxes / storage on the SB and port sides under the deck , but it is not deep engough, that is why sections 1 and 2 were removed. also on section 2 thats where the anchor was dropped many times and it was beat up. I also wanted to check the transom while I was there and she is good to go.



sections 1 and 2 are right at about 15 x 40" section 3 is 6 x 58" and I still have not found a ski locker that I like yet . that will be going into the existing deck and I will use access from section 3 to get the foam out , ect. I already have alot of it out.

there are 3 stringers in the baot and the span between them is 15 inches.

before I found out that I had the stringer in the middle I was just going to drop in a standard ski locker in the middle , however now that I have the stringer in the middle I am going to find a larger ski locker and basically use the stringer as a "divider" of the ski locker. I dont want to cut the stringer like my initial plans. I will add the bulkheads once i have the hole for the ski locker cut out.

I have those 3 pieces of new decking all glassed and ready to drop in. it is 1/2 deck BTW but judging by the thickness of the existing deck I will need to add one more layer of 1.5 oz csm to the top. I only have 1 layer of 1.5 CSM on the top and bottom right now on my new pieces.

The flooring plan is nautolex over the entire deck once done, it was some ugly crap brown carpet in there, where I boat sand getting in there is a big problem, I like the idea of nautloex so I can just spray it out.

she is pretty bare now. I have removed all of the foam from under the 3 sections and will be refoaming it once the new deck is laid in .

I am building a new doghouse for it too out of 1/2 ply with 3/4 on top. I stand on it alot while fishing and anchoring. The last one was all 1/2 and held up pretty well so I will basically just duplicate it , but add the 3/4 on top.

I hope that all makes sense.

and sorry for the drawings, my home computer went down a few weeks ago so I cant upload any pics , those are just some recent pics of the boat.

 

[JASinIL2006]

If you're going to cover the whole thing with Nautolex, I'd be inclined to tab the deck to the hull wit PB and 1708. Same with the joint between the deck and the bilge. I wouldn't cut your butt joints on a 45 degree angle. I'd just leave an 1/8 to a 1/4 inch gap, then fill it with PB. Then I'd cover all of areas 1, 2 & 3 with 1708 (extending beyond the tabbing you already did on the bilge and hull joints. As I covered that area with 1708, I'd overlap the joint between the existing good deck and area 3 by at least 6-8". After that hardened, I'd use PB or fairing compound to smooth the line where the 1708 ended (on the existing good part of the deck) so you don't have a transition line show through the Nautolex.

That's how I'd do it.

 

[Woodonglass]

15" span with 1/2 Plywood then I agree with DB you should add some cleats. Don't think you need to thru bolt them Deck screws will be fine. Make em 3" wide (1 1/2" on either side) and 6-7" long. Use PB to butter em up on the install. PB the joints on the install then some out the squish out. Tape the Joints with CSM. Tab the Deck/Hull joints with 1708 after you fill em with PB. That's my recommendation

 

[Redrig]

.Thanks for responses fellas . I have cleats in there already and have just laid sections one and 2 and tabbed to hull.

Quick question , with this 2 part foam . Is there an ideal temp to get max expansion ? I have roughly 90 - 60 F today and tonight , when should I do it ?

please excuse brevity . I am on a cell. Thanks fellas

 

[gm280]

.Thanks for responses fellas . I have cleats in there already and have just laid sections one and 2 and tabbed to hull.

Quick question , with this 2 part foam . Is there an ideal temp to get max expansion ? I have roughly 90 - 60 F today and tonight , when should I do it ?

please excuse brevity . I am on a cell. Thanks fellas

REDRIG, I just finished mix and pouring foam in my hull last week. The 90 degrees would work perfect. You will get the maximum expansion with those temps. And there is no need to worry about the night time temps because the foam takes about 15 minutes to cure and stop expanding. So have at it and you will enjoy the process. And you will also see you have a lot more time then you think with the 30 second mixing time. Post some more pictures... :thumb:

 

[Redrig]

Hello All ,

I have a couple questions for you guys. Over the winter I have been working on a few items on the boat and need some help / ideas .

1. I made a new engine cover or doghouse , I just built baiscally the same dimensions (see above) using exterior ply . The original one has some type of plastic sheet over the wood to make it match with the rest of the interior . I have a nice A ply side all around the doghouse so I dont want to wrap carpet or whatever around it .

I think I am going to seal my new one with the "old timers recipe" but quick question on that .
What changes does that make to the appearance of the wood ? Do you use any stain ahead of time , or wil lthe old timers recipe make the plywood "look wet" and really darken it up , or will it be fairly close to its dry look ?
Does anyone have pics ?

2. I need some type of pad or cushion for the top of the doghouse , I called seadek to get a quote for thier stuff and they want like 300 bucks for a 24" x 30" piece , thats nuts . the orignal one had a nice custom upholstered pad up top , but I cant make one of those and the orignal is beaten up too badly to add on to the new one.

Does anyone know of some budget freindly items for a little bit of cushion on top?

I will upload some pics soon too , I had my buddy the welder build me a nice 48" x 24" ski locker using aluminum Z channel , Its gonna be so nice to finally have some storage in her.

I ordered the nautolex too

Thanks,

 

[Woodonglass]

PM sent

 

[Redrig]

Here is the new doghouse . I will be soaking this up in the old timers recipe shortly .



And the trim ring for my new storage / ski locker .



my buddy did an awesome job , you cant even see any seams on this . He rounded the corners up nicely too .

The plan is to make the lid out of starboard or I may just use a piece of 3/4 ply to match it with the doughouse .

 

[Woodonglass]

WOW!!! Your friend KNOWS how to weld!!! Dog House looks good! I replied to your PM!!

 

[NAT1VE]

any update, looking good!