Engine stalled after panic stop

[badrano]

Long story short, I was on plane,~20kts, pulling a tube and doing my traffic scan only to be caught off guard by some guy cutting across my path. I slapped the throttle in to neutral and the engine stalled out. I may have also attempted to jump in to reverse to do a hard stop, but I don't really remember. I'm just glad there was no collision and the other guy went on his way without taking an evasive action. I wouldn't be surprised if the engine stalled out because I may have actually dropped it into reverse.

Continuing on with the day, I don't know if this is related to the panic stop. I did stop and shut down for a short bit, maybe 30min. I started it back up and it sounded like it wanted to stall out especially after putting in to gear. I gave it a shot of gas to get a jump in RPMs. On the second stop and shutdown, it was over an hour. Started it back up and it idled like crap and when I put in gear, it stumbled and stalled. Started it up again, dropped it in gear and gave a quick shot of gas but apparently not fast enough and it stalled again. 3rd time was the charm, got the engine up to 1000 rpms and went on our way. We were in a no wake zone, so while moving along at 1000 rpms it seemed to run rough. Things seemed to get better as the engine warmed up, so I'm thinking something is up with the TKS. After getting it going after the second stop, the temp gauge was halfway between operating temp and the 125 mark. I don't remember at what temp the TKS temp switch operates at and also there was no hissing. Can the temp switch get stuck ON? Lean mixture with cold engine?

Any thoughts?

 

[QBhoy]

Took water up exhaust

 

[Scott Danforth]

My guess in addition to a slug of water in the cylinders, a bunch if crud came loose and is floating around inside the carb

 

[alldodge]

The temp switch for the TKS keeps power going to the module once the motor has warmed up, even when the motor is OFF.

Agree start with the carb cleaning

 

[emilime75]

I have a similar problem with an '06 3.0 TKS. Mine isn't as extreme and didn't start after any type of event such as your panic stop - but I've only owned this boat since February, so who knows. Cold starts are great, hot starts are great, but it's those "in-between" temps when starting the engine it struggles a bit, idle seems low and is very shaky. It'll smooth out after a few minutes and then be OK again. I also had a bit of a dieseling/run on issue. Aside from the above, the boat runs great. I am able to reach WOT RPM and just shy of 40 MPH in an '06 Sea Ray 185 Sport.

A few days ago, I removed the TKS module to check for operation - the piston and bore were very clean and bench testing the module passed, no issues there. I then went through the fuel system, cleaned out the strainer at the carb inlet(it was cruddy), replaced the filter in the fuel pump(it looked like the wrong filter was installed previously and partially collapsed) and then added a fuel/water separator. Driveway/ear muff testing after this seems to have made a huge improvment in both warm starts and the dieseling. I did take it out on the lake once after doing the above, but the day didn't yield good opportunities to test things much. Cold start at the ramp - great. Shut down after about 20-30 minutes of cruise time - great, no dieseling. Re-start after about 4.5 hours - great. Shut down back at the ramp - great, no dieseling.

I get that my experience might not be very relevant to yours, but my point is that it seems like the fuel system service helped my warm re-starts. I think it is possible that your abrupt stop stirred up and/or dislodged debris and caused a partial blockage. Also, the filter cup at the bottom of the fuel pump was factory painted on the inside and mine was seriously bubbling and pulling away from the metal, but was not broken and no loose particles. I have read that in some cases this paint does bubble and split and small particles get sucked up and clog things.

 

[badrano]

My guess in addition to a slug of water in the cylinders, a bunch if crud came loose and is floating around inside the carb

I hope you're not saying the slug of water got in to a cylinder or two?

 

[badrano]

The temp switch for the TKS keeps power going to the module once the motor has warmed up, even when the motor is OFF.

Agree start with the carb cleaning

Are we talking about just running carb cleaner through the gas or a re-build?

 

[Scott Danforth]

I hope you're not saying the slug of water got in to a cylinder or two?

yes, that is what I said. when ever you cut throttle quickly and if you go to reverse, you are doing three things.

first, the rapid deceleration to neutral, with an alpha, the ignition stumbles to get out of gear. the rapid deceleration has a wave behind the boat that pushes water up the exhaust, then your moving to reverse gave it a second stumble to get it from neutral to reverse.

most likely a bit of water potentially went in the exhaust into the cylinders. hence the initial stall

the rapid movement also sloshed the fuel in the tank and carb, and any crud that was sort of growing in there got sloshed up.

 

[badrano]

most likely a bit of water potentially went in the exhaust into the cylinders. hence the initial stall

Ok. Is it safe to say that any little bit of water that got in got burned off? I'm guessing yes because if too much got in. the cylinder would have "water locked" (or what ever the term is) and that would have been the end of my day.

 

[Scott Danforth]

yes

 

[badrano]

I then went through the fuel system, cleaned out the strainer at the carb inlet(it was cruddy), replaced the filter in the fuel pump(it looked like the wrong filter was installed previously and partially collapsed) and then added a fuel/water separator.

I'm guessing you had to replace the gasket and packing set when you put the strainer back together.

Thinking of it now, probably should check that anyways since this is a 2009 engine and I have no records on any carb work (only have the boat going on 2 years). Maybe a rebuild needs to be done.

 

[Rick Stephens]

I'm guessing you had to replace the gasket and packing set when you put the strainer back together.

Thinking of it now, probably should check that anyways since this is a 2009 engine and I have no records on any carb work (only have the boat going on 2 years). Maybe a rebuild needs to be done.

If you have had the boat for a couple years and haven't gone through every maintenance item then you are asking for breakdowns. You must assume nothing was done by the previous owner and you need to check everything. Additionally, annually you should be cleaning and replacing fuel filters.

When your carburetor needs attention that means getting a rebuild kit and going through it. Not pouring something in the gas tank and spraying something down the throat of the carb. I know that is tempting, but no such thing as a mechanic in a can. Need to carefully make sure each port in the carburetor is clear and clean. Run a wire or heavy fishing line through them, check every passageway, check ball, replace parts that come in the kit, carefully set float height. That's the only way to get it out and prevent it from being a chronic problem.

Rick

 

[badrano]

If you have had the boat for a couple years and haven't gone through every maintenance item then you are asking for breakdowns. You must assume nothing was done by the previous owner and you need to check everything. Additionally, annually you should be cleaning and replacing fuel filters.

When your carburetor needs attention that means getting a rebuild kit and going through it. Not pouring something in the gas tank and spraying something down the throat of the carb. I know that is tempting, but no such thing as a mechanic in a can. Need to carefully make sure each port in the carburetor is clear and clean. Run a wire or heavy fishing line through them, check every passageway, check ball, replace parts that come in the kit, carefully set float height. That's the only way to get it out and prevent it from being a chronic problem.

Rick

I totally forgot that there is a strainer in the carb. The idea of a rebuild has been on my mind and I guess it has caught up to me. I took care of all "wear" items when I got the boat (obviously forgot about the carb strainer).

I called a mechanic for a price, going to do it. At this point, it will be the only way to get it done in a reasonable amount of time. If I had a friend who's done carb rebuilds, I'd do it with him so that I could learn.

What is a typical time frame between carb rebuilds to stay ahead of any issues?

 

[alldodge]

What is a typical time frame between carb rebuilds to stay ahead of any issues?

A lot of years to just a few. Depends on maintenance done and where you get your fuel

My 95 Rinker (bought brand new) has never had the carb done, and so far every time I go to use it, there has been no issues

 

[emilime75]

I'm guessing you had to replace the gasket and packing set when you put the strainer back together.

Thinking of it now, probably should check that anyways since this is a 2009 engine and I have no records on any carb work (only have the boat going on 2 years). Maybe a rebuild needs to be done.

I did not. I actually forgot that I'd need those parts so I reused what was there. They both looked OK and are not leaking, so not too terribly concerned, but also plan on getting back in there soon to see if any more debris is found now that I know it's been cleaned. I'll order and replace when I do that.

Also not really buying that your problem is water intrusion. The initial stall, yes, maybe, but that also could be a fuel supply/carb problem - your issues beyond that I don't think have anything to do with water. I think any permanent damage that could've been caused by the water would be present at all RPM, not just idle.