New outdrive, possible overheat?

[Slice of Life]

I just put together and installed a brand new SE116 outdrive as a replacement for my original Alpha one gen II a week ago. Following all of the procedures for putting the upper and lower unit together per the manual, and installing the outdrive to the boat, I then put muffs on with the water hooked up and on, and started the engine up for the first time this season. The engine was on for approx 3-4 mins total, and never over 1000 RPM, as I was letting it idle knowing not to have it too high while on muffs. Due to the temp gauge not working (or as I found just out just now the water temp sending unit not working as the temp readings were never above 100 last season) I do not the what temps the engine actually got to. I bought an laser thermometer to test temps now in the future. The big warning and shock however was when I saw a bit of smoke coming from the engine, specifically from the manifolds and risers, or in that general area. I checked the impeller, thinking it was going to be in many pieces if there was no water going to it, despite the muffs being on. The impeller looks BRAND NEW and now signs of wear, the tips are still shinny and soft and there was no signs of any damage at all. That's the real kicker!

I made the assumption that with he water to the muffs, and outdrive correctly installed, that the engine would get sufficient water to cool, just as I had run on muffs on the previous outdrive. I later pulled the water intake hose off the cooler assembly that connects the hose to the thermostat to the intake hose, and noticed that it was completely dry and had no sings of water going through it. I also opened the drain plugs on the block and hoses to the manifolds and there was no water to be found.

I put a bit of water to the intake hose on the bell housing with the drive off to see if there was a blockage, and with the hose disconnected to the cooler assembly, water flows freely through there. Closed thermostat? I'm reading that's an easy fix, hopefully. The real question is if the engine is ok or not. I'm aware of the potential for damage due to overheat.

Questions: Can I test to see if water from the muffs that's going through the impeller is going through the upper unit when the driver is turning by turning it manually while the drive is off the boat? I tried but no water came out, though perhaps this cannot be done manually fast enough to get any water flow out of the upper. Is it possible to put the water hose to the water intake hole to the intake hose that goes to the engine from the bell housing and see if I can get water to the block without the engine being on? I'm terrified to start this again until I know there's a sufficient water flow.

The exhaust shutters/flappers were just put on brand new and I checked them after the possible overheat and they are still there and seem unchanged.

Thanks.

 

[Slice of Life]

Ok, so I just put the water hose to the water intake hole that goes to the intake hose to the engine, kept it on for about 30 secs, and found no blockage apparently. Water comes out of every drain hole once the plug is removed. I removed the drain plugs on the bottom part of the block, and a long flow of water came out of each side. So maybe this brand new aftermarket outdrive is a piece of **** and is not doing it's basic function of pumping water out? Going to contact SEI when they are open next time. If I have engine damage then they should be liable. Though I know I'm probably most at fault.

 

[Bt Doctur]

The SEI unit comes in 2 section and the owner is responsible for putting it together correctly. When in doubt, ask.
the 116 is similar to the GEN II drive. Did you get the copper water installed correctly? If not, the water leaves the pump body but dosent get up to the engine.

 

[achris]

Whenever I put a drive back together the first thing I watch as I fire up the engine is that the excess water flowing from around the muffs suddenly drops. That indicates the drive water pump is picking up water. The next thing is to check that water is actually getting to the engine. It appears yours was not. That could mean you missed the water tube when installing the two sections of the drive or that one of the hoses has collapsed. Pull the drive and push a hose into the water passage on the port side of the bell housing. Even with a cold engine (thermostat closed) you should get water coming out of the exhaust reliefs fairly quickly. That shows the engine hoses are good.

HTH,

Chris..........

 

[Slice of Life]

The SEI unit comes in 2 section and the owner is responsible for putting it together correctly. When in doubt, ask.
the 116 is similar to the GEN II drive. Did you get the copper water installed correctly? If not, the water leaves the pump body but dosent get up to the engine.

Yes, the water tube was put into the guide tube and slid right in. It's actually a white plastic one on this model, I think the SE 106 has the copper one. I really don't see how somebody could miss that part when putting the halfs together. And yes, I took the water hose to the water passage and water flowed completely through the engine and out of the exhaust hoses.

Can the drive be turned manually when off of the boat when muffs are hooked up and water be seen visually out through the upper unit, or can that not be accomplished?

 

[achris]

Can the drive be turned manually when off of the boat when muffs are hooked up and water be seen visually out through the upper unit, or can that not be accomplished?

In theory, yes. But the force required to turn the shaft fast enough to see water flow would require, I don't know, an engine? JK... Did you do the observation of the water flooding out from around the muffs thing? Result?

 

[Slice of Life]

Nice one, achris I put the water hose up to the water passage with the drive off and observed water flowing out properly, yes, but have not tried starting the engine again yet to observe the excess water flowing out of the muffs stop when the engine is running. I'm getting ready to reinstall the drive again and attempt a muff start again, but am very apprehensive of doing so.

 

[Bt Doctur]

Yes, the water tube was put into the guide tube

The copper tube is installed in the upper unit first if not already installed by the factory. the guide tube installs on top of the water pump housing.There are 2 O rings that do the sealing. Guess you haven't serviced a drive that the owner missed with the copper water tube.

 

[Watermann]

If you didn't miss the copper water tube then could the impeller key (#28) have slipped on you?

 

[Slice of Life]

The impeller key was on correctly, as it was factory installed first and then after I put the housing back on with impeller I made sure the key had 2-4-C on it and back on properly.

 

[Slice of Life]

I started the engine on muffs again today and can detect water is flowing through into the engine. I cannot however see streams of water coming out of the exhaust ports. When the drive was off I could put the water hose up to the water passage on the port side of the bell housing and within 10 seconds see a steady flow of water out of the bottom exhaust ports on each side. Is this normal when running on muffs not to see this flow due to insufficient pressure?

The temp on the thermostat housing never got passed 100 F after the engine was on for about 1.5 minutes. My infrared thermometer detected temps as high as 165 on the port side riser and manifold, and about 150 on the starboard. I thought the new temp gauge and new temp sending unit had still not fixed my temp indication problem, but the laser thermometer said the thermostat housing was never over 99 F, so I guess the gauge was reading correctly...faulty thermostat maybe?

 

[achris]

I started the engine on muffs again today and can detect water is flowing through into the engine. I cannot however see streams of water coming out of the exhaust ports. When the drive was off I could put the water hose up to the water passage on the port side of the bell housing and within 10 seconds see a steady flow of water out of the bottom exhaust ports on each side. Is this normal when running on muffs not to see this flow due to insufficient pressure?

No, even on muffs you should (must) see water coming out of the exhaust reliefs.

The temp on the thermostat housing never got passed 100 F after the engine was on for about 1.5 minutes. My infrared thermometer detected temps as high as 165 on the port side riser and manifold, and about 150 on the starboard. I thought the new temp gauge and new temp sending unit had still not fixed my temp indication problem, but the laser thermometer said the thermostat housing was never over 99 F, so I guess the gauge was reading correctly...faulty thermostat maybe?

Maybe.

 

[Bt Doctur]

if you ran it on muffs and had good flow exiting the motor thru the reliefe ports and do not see the same thing using the outdrive,something is still wrong with the pump or its connection or gaskets or something.

 

[Slice of Life]

So I put the drive back on today, and checked the water hose connections on the engine. Apparently three hoses were loose, and two of them had clamps that could be moved by hand. This was my fault as I did not tighten them back enough after I disconnected them when I did the winterization last year. The hoses need to be tight and secure, not just connected. It seems like there would be no problem as long as the water is flowing, however the pressure must not be sufficient enough to have water flow through the relief ports if the connections are not good and tight.

There is now a solid stream of water out of the port side relief hole, and a constant spit or splatter of water out of the starboard side relief hole. Going to check the connections again on the starboard side to make sure. It does get a bit warmer on the risers/manifolds than the port side.

 

[achris]

... It does get a bit warmer on the risers/manifolds than the port side.

That's not unusual. Nothing to be concerned about.