Sangster 21 Restoraton

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Sangster21

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Mar 15, 2012
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Picked up the boat and trailer about a month ago. Pulled the engine and started gutting. Boat has the classic inline 6 power plant and a mercruiser outdrive. Boat will be used for fishing on Vancouver Island so it needs to be built strong.
 

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Sangster21

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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130
Re: Sangster 21 Restoraton

My brother helped out last weekend, and we got most of the rotten floor, stringers and foam out. Amazing that factory does not seal the undersides of floor etc! Port side stringer not too bad, starboard total mush. Below deck foam, pretty disgusting stuff, especially when in many spots it would be a miracle for trapped water to drain away. I will have to do a better job than they did in the factory in 1976!
 

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Sangster21

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Re: Sangster 21 Restoraton

Managed to put in a good week here while on Spring Break. Got everything cleaned out, all through hulls removed and hull ground bare or do I mean bear. Good grief man... not a fun job. Probably 40 hours on the dumb end of a variety of grinders getting it all cleaned up. Sure feels good to think I am done with that phase of the project! Kinda late now that I am done, but can anyone add to my fiberglass grinding techniques ? Searching showed most people using the workhorse 4-1/2 angle grinder for most of the job, but I sure found my 5 inch Makita had a lot more oomph and the disks lasted longer. I did use a diamond cut off blade for cutting through tabbing to remove deck and stringers. Good. Not so good having a spaz moment and cutting a slot through to the wet side of the hull! Apparently I am not the only one to do this, but not a particularly proud moment.
Does any one else do this? I use my 5 inch disks until they dull a bit, than I cut them down with an old pair of tin snips to make a disk for 4-1/2 grinder. Most of the wear occurs on the outer edge of the disk. I also find that the red fibre disk sanding pads only cut well for a couple of minutes, and then it is slower going. I hate using dull abrasives so I went through quite a pile of them. I found the 16 grit were the best for hogging material. Does any one use a higher quality abrasive pad? Fiberglass seems pretty tough on them and I wonder if Zirconium or other tougher/harder abrasive would be more effective? I feel I have much better control with a sharp disk rather than leaning on dull one!
Last day of grinding and I had some bigger flat areas to hit so I dug up Dad's old 7 inch Craftsman Professional Grinder ( heavy and noisy, must be circa 1970 or so). Should have brought out the big boy earlier on! Disk lasts longer and it really kicks up a snow storm of grinding debris. My advise would be to use the biggest grinder you can handle, little ones for detail work but when there is miles of thick old tabbing to get through... let the big dog eat.
 

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Sangster21

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Re: Sangster 21 Restoraton

First of many questions I will have on my first major boat project. I have blocked the boat up off the trailer at the rear corners on the chine flats and at one point under the bow.Sighting along the hull, the boat looks straight. I left the cap on to maintain some structure. Do I need to do any other support before I start on stringer repairs? In case anyone needs to similar, it is a piece of cake to take the weight off the trailer... don't need a jack or anything. Raising and lowering the trailer jack raises and lowers the transom. Make some measurements of max up and down range of the transom. Build blocking to support transom, raise trailer jack and presto the boat is off the rollers at the rear. Lower trailer jack to lower bow onto support. Done.
Any way.... does the boat seem supported in the appropriate spots before I lock it into shape with new stringers?
Regards,
Alan
 

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Sangster21

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Mar 15, 2012
Messages
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Re: Sangster 21 Restoraton

I am so looking forward to cutting some wood rather than working an angle grinder! I just finished ( I hope anyway... actually I am sure after cleaning up the hull with shop vac I will find a few spots that need grinding :() the last of the grinding this evening and am planning for transom repair. Apparently since 1976 this boat has seen some battles, the transom looks like the back stop at the local shooting range! I think starting with a clean transom and putting my own holes in sounds like a good idea.Sangster April 14 003 (640x480).jpgSangster April 14 006 (640x480).jpg
I think I just figured out how to insert bigger pictures! Hope it works!Hmm fail didn't work.
What is the smart strategy for the transom repair? I figure a re gelcoating of the transom is in order for this stage of the project for sure. I don't really want to lay on a bunch of glass patches to the inside and muck up the nice flat transom glass. Should I bevel back all of the holes patch from inside and grind flush?
Not sure on the smart strategy for this so some advice would be much appreciated!
Alan
 

Sangster21

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Mar 15, 2012
Messages
130
Re: Sangster 21 Restoraton

Vacuumed the hull clean, and picked up the grinder again. Fortunately not a long session. I did cut through the hull in one section while cutting out the stringers. How should I fix it? Put some tape on the outside, fill with PB and lay some csm or 1708 over top? I may lay a strip of cloth along the entire length of the chine, as I have created at least one other "thin" spot.
I asked in my last post for advice on filling the holes in the transom, any one have some advice for that? I can't imagine that strength is an issue with 2 layers of re enforced plywood backing it up. Can I block off the gel coat side and fill with chopped strand peanut butter or should I lay in some cloth?
Alan
 

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Tnuts2858

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May 31, 2021
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How did this go? I have a very similar sangster that I’m in the process of “podding” and just opened myself a can of worms on the floor.
 
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