125 force help

RRitt

Captain
Joined
Mar 30, 2006
Messages
3,319
Re: 125 force help

the quickest way to break your force engine is to have a mercury dealer repair it.
 

RRitt

Captain
Joined
Mar 30, 2006
Messages
3,319
Re: 125 force help

if you can get the trim & tilt & motor & pump off your boat, I'll rebuild the whole thing for $230ish. usually takes $80 in parts and 8 hours in labor (assumming no stripped threads or parts ruined beyond repair). hardest part is learning to cut the oil lines instead of stripping the threads. If you strip the threads, then the only fix I know is to drill out hole and use a bubble flare. which means new line anyway. so it's better to cut line on seized fittings and use 6side socket to remove. <br />You can drive your boat while it is being fixed by sticking a 1/2" by 12" galvanized bolt through the tilt holes and a 3/8 x 10" rod through the swivel bracket. Use some really big zip-ties to hold the motor down for reversing. I got everything needed from hardware store for under $5. It took 10 minutes to cut the 3/8rod to length and less than 5 mintues to install. Stick two washers on end of bolt to protect paint and jam two nuts into each other to hold it in place. Don't tighten against stern brackets. Works great. I call it the "skeg saver 2000" because there's two zip ties and they will break off easily.
 

Kahrmar3912

Cadet
Joined
Apr 19, 2006
Messages
26
Re: 125 force help

Thanks for the offer at this point i already have it in shop . If he tells me my pumps are shot i will call you immediately How do i get pump to you and what is the turn around time. I appreciate<br />the help from you wish i knew that yesterday.
 

RRitt

Captain
Joined
Mar 30, 2006
Messages
3,319
Re: 125 force help

well, something already sounds fishy. trim pistons are the least likely point of failure. They have a large diameter 3/16" o-ring. The tilt piston should fail long before the trim piston. After tilt piston, next thing to go should be the motor housing. Mercury was too cheap to spring for the ball bearing. To compensate they downsized seals from 3/32 to 1/16. When these undersized seals fail water gets in and the inside of motor rusts up. It's a toss up as to whether the trim intrusion seal or pump resevoir seal should fail next. Either way, there's a lot of stuff that should have failed before your trim piston.<br /><br />how long it takes to rebuild a pump and motor depends upon how tore up the old ones are. Anywhere from 1day to 3weeks.
 

RRitt

Captain
Joined
Mar 30, 2006
Messages
3,319
Re: 125 force help

sure. if it's in good shape. don't take the valve/pump apart. just flush it. if there's no water in your system then the valve will outlast almost every other part on your boat. So check the drained hydraulic oil for water. No water means just a good flushing and inspection is almost always all that needs to be done.<br /><br />tap the holes in top of resevoir at 10/24 and use stainless steel threaded rod with SS locknuts and aluminum sealing washers to hold down brush cap. make sure armature is fully seated to resevoir then attach valve body with new SS screws and o-ring. Spin armature and make sure you hear the clicking noise. Don't worry, about armature shaft to resevoir. It's supposed to be a tight fit.<br /><br />make sure armature is still seated. put o-ring in place and put on housing. check clearance on rod to armature. if not good, pull off housing and gently bend a "C" shape into threaded rod. try again. use some marine grease to hold ball bearing in cap and o-ring in groove. Use fine wirte to keep new brushes fully retracted. and place cap onto armature. gently lower then pull out wire. put on sealing washers and locknut. screw tightly. <br /><br />ideal thing is to sandblast housing and fill with fiberglass. waterproof bondo is good. if not sandblast then good wirebrushing and rust-fighter. check inside of housing for rust signs. if rust on inside then treat that too. no need to paint until after assembly. paint sticks fine to bakelight. just scuff it some #220.<br /><br />prime and paint<br /><br />its finished.
 

RRitt

Captain
Joined
Mar 30, 2006
Messages
3,319
Re: 125 force help

Best:<br />use as568-147 for motor collar and as568a-151 for valve body to resevoir. 3/16" or 1/4" ball bearing required.<br /><br />per mercury original:<br />I don't know why you'd want this. it's not worth the $0.17 and 10 minutes labor that you save by eliminating the ball bearing (1/64" sealing surface versus 3/64"). But anyway, use AS568A-039 for motor collar and AS568A-041 for valve body to resevoir. 3/16" ball bearing optional. 1/4" ball bearing will not work with undersized o-rings and 3/32" o-rings will not work without ball bearing. 3/16" ball bearing will work with either size of o-rings.
 

Kahrmar3912

Cadet
Joined
Apr 19, 2006
Messages
26
Re: 125 force help

WOW Thats, alot of info I will get crackin sunday am. I cant thank you guys enough. I havent even got this beast into the water yet I have read all the entries in this forum I am hoping that these are my only problems. I am almost afraid of my first voyage.
 

Kahrmar3912

Cadet
Joined
Apr 19, 2006
Messages
26
Re: 125 force help

Well i got the call. The bolts are all corroted<br />and broken the mechanic is suggesting tilting manually.
 

RRitt

Captain
Joined
Mar 30, 2006
Messages
3,319
Re: 125 force help

depends which bolts he's talking about. frozen star bolts on trim cover is S.O.P. so are rusted out bolts on motor cover. If you got trim housing off boat, then you're over halfway home. If you can get cylinder sleeve out of trim housing then you're 3/4 way home.
 
Top