Engine Coupler - Mercruiser 140

Joined
Jul 30, 2006
Messages
9
I have a 1975 Crestliner tri-hull with Mercruiser 140 in-line four. It is in very good condition and, I believe, sound and solid. I took the outdrive apart to repair the trim limit switch (old style in top of housing). The outdrive was a little difficult to remove but finally got it off. I found the gimbal bearing was siezed which explained the growl I had heard a couple times. I replaced the gimbal bearing, all boots, rear shift cable and repaired/reinstalled the trim switch. Bear in mind the drive operated and to my knowledge, had never been apart before.

Prior to installing the outdrive, I noticed the gimbal bearing and drive coupler bores were way out of alignment. The front of the engine was too high. I lowered the adjusting screw, removed five shim plates and finally brought them visually into alignment. The rear mounts were tight and intact. I used a straight pipe to check aligment and both bores appeared to be in alignment. I lubed and assembled the unit. I ran the unit on the muffs for half an hour, no problem. Coupler stayed cool.

Went to the lake and it ran great, for thirty minutes! By the time I smelled the burning rubber and realized what was happening, the engine over-revved. I immediately shut it down. Dead in the water, no drive, no cooling. We waved down another boat for a complimentary tow to the boat ramp. I pulled the outdrive and found I could turn the coupler hub from the rear of the boat, using a flat bar, and the engine not turn. The drive coupler was obviously shot.

Round two ...... I pulled the engine (no problem)s and installed a new coupler. Outdrive input shaft spines looked good. Checked everything over and put the engine back in. I purchased a 1" straight dowel and it fit the coupler spines perfectly. I used a sleeve on the dowel with a 1" inside diameter and 1.375" outside diameter that slid effortlessly on the dowel and into the gimbal bearing. I did have to readjust the front of the engine slightly upward from where it was on my first adventure. I lubed and installed the outdrive. It literally fell right into position. I ran the unit on the muffs, in gear, for over an hour. No problem, no heat.

Heeding the warnings in the service manual to have alignment professionally checked, I called my Mercruiser dealer. He stated he was busy but aligment was not "that critical" and not hard to set. I told him what I did and he said if the outdrive installed as easily as it did, I had to be close and should have no problem. So, I go to the lake. Its mid-week, no one is around and the lake is rough. Not wanting swim back if we had trouble, I simply backed the boat, still on the trailer, into the lake so I could run it under load. I never unloaded it. Ran about a half hour, in gear, again no problems. Coupler got a little warm but I could still put my hand on it. Engine was off of course.

Good to go, right? The weekend comes, load up the skis and the family and head to the lake. We get our darling little vessel in the water and I operate the boat conservatively (half throttle) wanting to make sure all is well. Guess what? Thirty minutes later, the same darn thing happens! I shut it down and immediately poured ice water (from my beer cooler) over the coupler. Luckily, I was able to idle back in and maintain drive and engine cooling. The least little bit of throttle caused slippage. Luckily, I had enough beer to make the trip.

I pulled the outdrive again and the shaft spines and universal joints look/act good. Internally, the outdrive appears to be fine. I obviously have an aligment issue. Is the aligment that fussy and that difficult to set?
Could I have an issue with the boat on versus off the trailer? It is a roller trailer without full bunk support.
Any other ideas or suggestions?
I either need to get another coupler (and aligment tool) or a couple sticks of dynamite.
Thanks!
 

Reel Poor

Vice Admiral
Joined
Jan 29, 2005
Messages
5,522
Re: Engine Coupler - Mercruiser 140

You really need to align it with the proper tool.
AlignmentTool.jpg


Also check the front motor mounts and make sure the engine is not moving around when the boat is under a load.

Did you get the rear mount spacer, fiber washers, and double wound lock washers back in like they are supposed to be? Also check the rear mounts for damage/sag. If the rear mounts are damaged/saging, you will never get the engine to align properly.
Merc20rear20mounts.png


 
Joined
Jul 30, 2006
Messages
9
Re: Engine Coupler - Mercruiser 140

Reel said:
You really need to align it with the proper tool.
AlignmentTool.jpg


Also check the front motor mounts and make sure the engine is not moving around when the boat is under a load.

Did you get the rear mount spacer, fiber washers, and double wound lock washers back in like they are supposed to be? Also check the rear mounts for damage/sag. If the rear mounts are damaged/saging, you will never get the engine to align properly.
Merc20rear20mounts.png


 
Joined
Jul 30, 2006
Messages
9
Re: Engine Coupler - Mercruiser 140

Thanks for the feedback.
I agree on the tool. Alignment must be the issue.
The rear mounts of the engine are fixed, resting on top of the transom plate ears. The fiber washers and spring rings are installed correctly and bolts properly torqued. Other than that, there does not seem to be any varaibles at the rear.
Good point on the front although I have not noticed any looseness or "torquing" of the engine. There is some clearance beneath the top nut/washer on the front mount screw. Is this correct or should it be tight?
Thanks
 

Reel Poor

Vice Admiral
Joined
Jan 29, 2005
Messages
5,522
Re: Engine Coupler - Mercruiser 140

They definately need to be tight. ANY movement from loose mounts is to much.

The rear mount are metal clad rubber (pressed into the flywheel cover) and if yours are origional there is a very good posibility they have saged.

Here is a parts breakdown. On the left side of the page #19 would be the part.
15.GIF

 
Joined
Jul 30, 2006
Messages
9
Re: Engine Coupler - Mercruiser 140

I looked into the mounts and can get the left side but the right is no longer available. Any suggestions?
Is there a similar arrangement at the front?
Mercruiser calls #29 a bushing.
What is disturbing is that the boat worked fine until I worked on the trim switch.
Thanks
 

qaztwo

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jun 26, 2004
Messages
384
Re: Engine Coupler - Mercruiser 140

Is the aligment that fussy and that difficult to set?

yes if your by your self. I agree you need the correct tool you can buy one, or due a search for the specs and have it made for you. The gimble bearing also needs to be aligned to the coupler with the fine tuning done with the mounts. I just changed my coupler, after it was aligned I cranked the engine and checked again. Your transom could also be flexing underpower causing some problems.

good luck
 
Joined
Jul 30, 2006
Messages
9
Re: Engine Coupler - Mercruiser 140

Finally, I believe I final have this thing figured out.
Believe it or not, I am now on my fourth coupler!
I had an alignment tool made to specs (tremendous help). I replaced the rear engine mount rubbers as they had sagged a bit. However, everytime I aligned it and went to the lake the coupler would run very hot. I returned and rechecked it to find the alignment had changed.
The real problem was to bolts going through the transom to secure the front plate to the rear plate had lossened. Tightened them and now the alignment holds.
d:)
 
Joined
Jul 30, 2006
Messages
9
Re: Engine Coupler - Mercruiser 140

I am back. I ruined my fourth engine coupler.

I had not been able to get the unit in the water until recently. At low speed (under 2000 rpm) I believe it would run all day. At higher speed, in five minutes the coupler was gone. Before the last attempt I had installed new mounts, used the correct tool, aligned it and everything was tight.

I think I have transom/structural problems and the transom is flexing under load. I can lift/lower the lower unit by hand and I can feel the transom move. I can actually pinch my fingers behind the aluminum strip (covering the joint where the bottom and top halves of the hull are put togther) as I move it.

I removed the rear section of the strip and the staples that hold the top/bottom halves together were either missing or broken off. There is no visible damage or cracks in the gel coat.

Am I correct in assuming the staple issue is a symptom and not the cause of the issue? I can clamp the fiberglass flanges togther using vise grips and the transom is very much improved but not "rock" solid.

What is involved with repairing the transom? What else can I expect?
Can you point me to any good links or products that can help?

Thanks
 

Bondo

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Apr 17, 2002
Messages
71,157
Re: Engine Coupler - Mercruiser 140

I think I have transom/structural problems

Ayuh,......... I Agree..........

You'd better wander on down to the Boat Restoration and Building forums,......
And do a search on Transom Repair,.......

It shouldn't take much more than a few Days to cover the Info there.......;)
 
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