Re: 1975 Johnson 6hp SeaHorse 6R75R intermitently looses power - ?disapearing sp
Re: 1975 Johnson 6hp SeaHorse 6R75R intermitently looses power - ?disapearing sp
Hello to everyone,
First I want to thank everybody for keeping this message board. Afterr all it was only one source which helped me to fix my motor.
Motor is working like charm now and I want to share accumulated knowledge with all "first time" guys like myself.
about parts:
1) I ended up buying pair of QuickSilver ignition coils Part#: 802371A 1
they were $31 each (+taxes)
2) I bought 6 feet of new ignition wire (after job done only 10 inches left) = $1 per foot.
3) Original OEM OMC Tune up kit Part#: 172522
was $25 (+taxes)
I have to say that I have ordered and had on hands
Sierra TuneUp kit #18-5006.... BUT never used it and didnt even opened the package because when I got it first thing you see is the poor quality of materials and assebly of contact points, and I've decided that it's is worth to go ahead with OEM TuneUp kit. Beside that difference in price was only $2 (TWO) !!! bucks.
Here I would like to start from begining:
1) To remove the flywheel you WILL need a "HARMONIC BALANCER PULLER" anythig else will not work and you can damage the flywheel. I will probably have to stop by
closest hardware store to get bolts of apropriate size which fits holes (three of them) on the flywheel.
dont be cheap go and get this puller . it costs only 20bucks and you will need it not once in your life that's for sure. especially if you do not have a service manual like me. ( I had to take the flywheel off about ten times to get points properly adjusted)
2) since you have you flywheel off the shaft it is a good idea to take a coupe of pictures for the records just in case. then as mr. Xcusme sugested it is best to " work on only one cylinders ignition parts, at a time. If you get lost with the connections, just refer to the untouched side."
inspect the coils : I can bet you'll see cracks and burned holes.
From my experience it was relatively easy to mount all new part including new ignition wires in place.
BUT incorrect setting of poins gaps cost me skiping of this weekend fishing.
You obviously don't want to repeat my mistakes so another good advise from mr.Xcusme - " GET THE SERVICE MANUAL"
I had to spent whole sunday to set the gap "in blind"
even thoug it sounds easy " To adjust point gap, rotate crank shaft and align crank shaft keyway with the points rub block. Set point gap to .020 "
for this particular motor it isn't quite true.
you probably noticed marks on top of the flywheel 'set points 0.020" and there are marks on side of the flywheel
"set points T" and "set points B" and correspondind double line marks on the base of ignition system....
Thinking about "how the heck this thing works" will make your mind to boil...after taking off the flywheel for the fifth time ...get the manual...only one thing I can say
here.
But taking in consideration that I still don't have the manual. makes me think it's doable or it's just my luck
)
Main problem while setting the points gap is that you can allign marks on the wlywheel "set points T or B" with the lines on the ignition system base. and adjust points but nobody at any message board mentions in which position THROTTLE handle should be when you're making your adjustments. It is Important. (here's disscution wellcomed)
I will describe procedure which lead me to success. Though I cannot guarantee it is by the manual.
* disconnect spark plugs wires and remove spark plugs.
* Turn Throttle handle to START.
* allign marks on the wlywheel "set points T" with the two marking lines on the ignition system base so flywheel tooth is between those two lines.
* take the fly wheel off
* you'll see on the crank shaft base stamped mark "TOP" then space and then some numbers stamped.
* rotate Throttle handle so points rub is on the letter "o" of word "TOP"
* at this moment you can set corresponding points gap to
0.020.
* put the flywheel back on.
* rotate clockwise and allign marks on the wlywheel "set points B" with the two marking lines on the ignition system base so flywheel tooth is between those two lines.
* again rotate Throttle handle so points rub is on the letter "o" of word "TOP"
* at this moment you can set another corresponding points gap to 0.020.
* put the flywheel back on, but do not put the nut On it yet.
* With spark plug removed and held tight against block with wire on it, you should be able to spin flywheel by hand and see a spark at electrode of plug.
No spark - recheck your work.
you should see spark for both cylinders = for both wires.
* after this retighten flywheel and now you can try to start
and check your motor.
just for example of what improper gap can give you I'll list what I had while making my way.
1) no spark at lower cylinder ( even though ALLl parts were replaced on new)
2) runs ok at iddle speed but chockes dead as soon as you add more throttle.
3) runs ok at fast speed but dies on low RPMs.
it's all was because of improper gap.
I hope this posting was in any helpl for somebody out there.
Thanks again for guys who keeps this forum up and running and I hope you'll get your motor fixed.
Denis.
morda77@mail.ru
