1982 175 Johnson Sea Horse(the hole in the water i throw my money into)

[teksun]

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Ok, I have some issues with my motor.
<ol><li>When I first start out I cannot just floor it (hot foot) because it bogs out. Once it gets up on plane it does ok but after about a mile it seems to get another gear. Like its not running on all six cans, then all of a sudden it is. I call this stage 1 and stage 2. Stage 1 is about 45mph WOT Stage 2 is 53mph WOT</li><br><li>55 mph seems low to me, I have a friend with a 86' 200 that will go 70mph.</li><br><li>My prop is a 24p SS my RPMs are around 4800 WOT.</li><br><li>At WOT just befor I reach 53mph it seems to go flat. I have more pedal, I can hear it open up. </li><br><li>I am sure I need new fuel pumps. I bought some last year but the were the wrong ones. I used an iron to flatten and shink the rubber on the old ones instead. What is the correct part number to use. My fuel pumps look like a house (not a house with shoulders).</li><br><li>I have done a spark test with the meathod listed in this forum. I get a spark at 1/2in but not a bright blue one. More like yellow or orange.</li><br><li>I have done a compression test and all cylinders are around 90#</li><br><li>Where can I get a shop manual for THAT motor.</li><br><li>When I go to put the boat on the trlr it bogs down making it difficult to load</li><br>That is a start. I want to get this boat hoppin so all you techs be at my house Sat. <span class="style1">BYOB</span>

 

[jtexas]

Re: 1982 175 Johnson Sea Horse(the hole in the water i throw my money into)

Easy ones first:
Factory shop manual, I got mine at marineengine.com
Seloc is okay...written more for the do-it-yourselfer, but covers a lot of engines in one book so it's kind of general.

Fuel pump part number, go here:
http://epc.brp.com/default.aspx?brands=ej&lang=E
for your parts catalogue and schematics...drill down to your year/model #.

Weak spark: You have two powerpacks and six ignition coils yet good spark on none of 'em...only common denominator is the charge coil.

Couple things you can do before pulling the flywheel:
Examine all the wiring stator to powerpacks to coils, look for chafing, burnt, missing insulation, corrosion on the ground wires, loose connections.

Start her up at night, see if the spark plug wires are arcing.

Go here:
http://rapair.com/Forum/tabid/247/forumid/1/threadid/7/scope/posts/Default.aspx

and download the troubleshooting pdf, it gives resistance and voltage specs for your stator & power packs, but it takes a peak AC voltmeter or a multimeter with a DVA for the voltage tests.

No point thinking about anything else till you get those resolved.

IMHO.

see ya saturday.
btw did you know this is the mercury forum?

 

[twocycle]

Re: 1982 175 Johnson Sea Horse(the hole in the water i throw my money into)

This info is to help with your ignition issues which could affect your all around performance. Ouboard engine manufacturers in general had a lot of problems with stators back in the 70 & 80's and I've replaced hundreds of 'em. Everyone wanted to pot them and seal them up which caused them to not cool as well as the open winding style used in later model engines. Manufacturers also have actually designed newer flywheels to help act as air flow generators to help keep the stators cool.

A little experience with these engines can go a long way, so here's a few things to check out. Look under the flywheel and you'll probably see a black looking object that is like a big donut that the flywheel spins around. Now look at the top of the engine beneath it. Do you see a goey substance towards the front and back on top of the engine? If you do, then you most likely need a new stator. Low output here can cripple your engine. If you see the goo then your stator has overheated and once it's leaking it's BAD! A simple ohm meter can help in verifying it's condition, however you should never rely on that alone. An output test should also be performed as well. But the last thing you should also understand is that if it's leaking like I said before it's already bad, but may not necessarily be causing your problem and it's sometimes it's really hard to convince someone when their engine is running OK and we see a leaking stator that it needs replacing. Especially when the price of some of them are $400. The higher the charging output the more expensive they are.
As for the WOT you have, although you're OK it's not optimal. If you look at the serial number plate on your engine you will see that it specifiys the WOT throttle range and the range on your engine should be higher. There are sooooooo many different concepts about those numbers...........................
First of all the engine manufacturers put those there for a reason and first and foremost is to let us know how to prop the engine for the application. It's possible that the prop you're using is to high in pitch, but since I don't know your boat and what kind of condition the prop is in then I'm only speaking in generalities. Obviously if you have a performance issue then it could be that the engine just won't run at it's peak.
Lastly the ideal situation is to prop your engine so that it will turn in the RPM range recommended with an average load in your boat. It's best to take your boat out on a day when the water has a little chop, not glass, with your boat loaded like you would normally load it and open it up to WOT with the engine trimmed to it's best trim angle and check your RPM. It might also be a good idea to have the accuracy of your tach verified. We do this in the shop by the use of a shop tach while running the engine and compare it to the tach on the dash. If your prop is in good condition and your engine is running properly you now have a point from which to start. I like to tell people that it's best if they can run the RPM above the top of the range a few hundred RPM when they are lightly loaded cuz then it's gives the engine a cushion for the times when the livewells are full and the boats more heavily loaded. If you can over rev slightly under these conditions then you just need to back off the throttle a bit. Use your tach! The more RPM you can obtain at WOT (within the speciifed limits) the less your engine has to work. An engine that's under propped can cause the engine to ping and knock and self destruct. Two stroke outboards can fry in a matter of seconds!

Hope some of this makes sense.
Happy boating.
John
Owner/Operator
UB&M

 

[teksun]

Re: 1982 175 Johnson Sea Horse(the hole in the water i throw my money into)

see ya saturday.

Your On!

btw did you know this is the mercury forum?

What's a "Mercury"?:$:$:$

I checked out the link to the manuals but that is the problem I want to solve. I want a book for MY motor. I don't want to read 2 pages of junk about "On some Models"

 

[teksun]

Re: 1982 175 Johnson Sea Horse(the hole in the water i throw my money into)

Sorry for the wrong forum post. I will request moderator attention.

 

[jtexas]

Re: 1982 175 Johnson Sea Horse(the hole in the water i throw my money into)

funny I got my engine-specific OMC shop repair manual there at marineengine.com but I see yours covers the whole shebang, I'm not gonna recommend them anymore.

try kencook.com

 

[teksun]

Re: 1982 175 Johnson Sea Horse(the hole in the water i throw my money into)

Same

 

[teksun]

Re: 1982 175 Johnson Sea Horse(the hole in the water i throw my money into)

Ok, I went to Autozone and bought a cheap spark jump tester. I do have a good spark on 4 cylinders so I am ordering 2 coils, 3 carb kits, and two fuel pump repair kits.