New floor surface...

dvan1901

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Mar 26, 2006
Messages
503
I know this has been talked about quite a bit as I have read through some old threads.

I am redoing a section of my floor and I have ripped up all of the carpet. When I put the new floor down, I don't want to use carpet. So, how should I go about finishing the floor in a non-skip manner? I am aware of the many non-skip paints on the market, but my main question is, should I seal the floor with epoxy before I put on the non-skip surface? Or, should I forgo the epoxy all together. I am leaning towards Rust-Oleum Marine Topcoat with the non-skid additive. I just want to make sure I have a good seal on the finished floor and that if I epoxy then paint, the paint won't peal off.
 

Tail_Gunner

Admiral
Joined
Jan 13, 2006
Messages
6,237
Re: New floor surface...

One would think removing the old glue would expose the bare wood of the floor, for myself i would and will reseal the floor.

Right now im torn as to how to refinsh, i'm just to dam critical of my own work making it impossible to use gel coat,,,,,,,,,,,,,Nautolex makes a fairly nice flooring material but its 22.00 a yard now add back in good drop in carpet, now that could run 600 or so.............gotta draw the line somewhere............it's not looking good for me........:%
 

Boomyal

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Aug 16, 2003
Messages
12,072
Re: New floor surface...

Definitely sand then reseal the floor with epoxy. Then get out your $20.00 Harbor Freight spray gun;

www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=43760

Get some bulk adhesive from your local auto upholstery shop, fanfold your Nautolex flooring @ $15.00 sq yd;

www.a1foamandfabrics.com/site/department.cfm?id=11BE5A56-98C1-443E-A01FB5A6B3A61E36

position the butterfly folded flooring mid boat, spray both sides, a folded section at a time, then unfold flooring and press into place.

budda bing

vinylfloor.jpg


You have an easy to maintain floor that will not hold moisture, sand, seaweed, blood, ad nauseum.8)
 

Boomyal

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Aug 16, 2003
Messages
12,072
Re: New floor surface...

Tail_Gunner said:
Ahhh i knew he was good for something, beside's yelling Pic's Pic's there ya go........:love:..........
wave.gif


the Order has been placed

Well TG, you ought to know by now, that unlike sumothers, I walk the walk!;)
 

dvan1901

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Mar 26, 2006
Messages
503
Re: New floor surface...

What about Rust-Oleum Marine Topside Paint with the non-skip additive? Can that be applied over epoxy that has been sanded with 80 grit or would I need to use a primer? What are some other roll-on options that are good, but maybe not $120/gallon?
 

Tail_Gunner

Admiral
Joined
Jan 13, 2006
Messages
6,237
Re: New floor surface...

From there site:" Prime before using Topside Paint on"

Bare wood & fiberglass surfaces
Rust-Oleum Marine Coatings Primer for Wood & Fiberglass (for use above the waterline only)
Bare metal surfaces
Rust-Oleum Marine Coatings Primer for Metal (for use above the waterline only)
Previously painted surfaces
Either of the Rust-Oleum Marine Coatings Primers can be used if desired. Priming is not necessary unless paint is cracked, peeling, or otherwise unsound.






Available Colors:

207016
White Primer for Metal

207014
White Primer for Wood & Fiberglass










Above the Waterline
· Anti-Slip Additive
· Primers
· Spar Varnish
· Topside Paint
· Watco Teak Oil Finish

Below the Waterline
· Boat Bottom Antifouling Paint

http://www.dreamspaces.com/product.asp?frm_product_id=302&SBL=1

Yes they indicate to prime fiberglass, sorry for hijacking your thread.......... those price's boom posted made my ideal work got a litttle worked up......:}
 

JasonJ

Rear Admiral
Joined
Aug 20, 2001
Messages
4,163
Re: New floor surface...

You really should seal the wood before applying the non-skid. Otherwise, there is the possibility of nicking the non-skid, then having water wick in through the nick and damage the wood. I would thin some epoxy so it will saturate the wood, then sand and apply another layer. Sand again with an aggressive grit like 80 grit, wipe down with acetone and you'll have a surface that the non-skid will stick to and stay stuck, and the wood will never get wet.

On my boat I did this. I now have carpet over the non-skid, but I can say that between my coating of poly (that is what I used on my rebuild), the non-skid paint, and the liberal coat of exterior grade caret glue, I can't imagine that wood will ever get wet....

Boomyal always does good work on his boat, that floor looks great. I am just anxious to see the boat complete and on the water...
 

Boomyal

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Aug 16, 2003
Messages
12,072
Re: New floor surface...

Here ya go Jason. Lake Shasta in August. That Explorer 5.0 roller motor was frightful. I never did run the boat at full throttle as a result. But when I did get throttle happy with it, I paid the price. Gas was $6.00 a gallon at the lake. I learned real quick to stay out of the secondaries.

I might also add that my gas tank bay drainage system worked as planned. Except it was for gasoline instead of water. I screwed up my new sending unit installation and ended up dumping about 3 gallons of gas out over the top of the tank and into the bay. I ran the boat up on the shore, pulled the new plug in the forward bilge bulkhead and out it all came into the bilge. Before, that gas would have simply been trapped in the tank bay. That would have been a nightmare that would have disabled the boat for this trip.

DSCF0328.jpg


DSCF0261-1.jpg
 

iwombat

Captain
Joined
Jul 12, 2006
Messages
3,767
Re: New floor surface...

Okay, so I'm in the middle of this myself. I'm redoing the benches and storage areas in the bow of a late 70's starcraft SS bowrider. I'm new to the whole fiberglass and wood thing. But here's what I'm getting.

1) Cut some good grade plywood to shape.
2) Saturate pieces with thinned out poly resin.
3) Lay wood in place and fasten down.

Finish appropriately.

That nautolex looks nice and easy, but I can't say I've seen it anyplace. What's the texture like?
 

Boomyal

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Aug 16, 2003
Messages
12,072
Re: New floor surface...

iwombat said:
Okay, so I'm in the middle of this myself. I'm redoing the benches and storage areas in the bow of a late 70's starcraft SS bowrider. I'm new to the whole fiberglass and wood thing. But here's what I'm getting.

1) Cut some good grade plywood to shape.
2) Saturate pieces with thinned out poly resin.
3) Lay wood in place and fasten down.

Finish appropriately.

That nautolex looks nice and easy, but I can't say I've seen it anyplace. What's the texture like?

Don't forget to glass it over after you fasten it down. The precoating with resin not only preserves the wood but keeps the raw wood from sucking up all the resin, leaving a weak bond with the fiberglass.

The nautolex texture is non skid. You do not want to slide across it with your bare knees.:%

It is very durable and easy to keep clean.
 

Tail_Gunner

Admiral
Joined
Jan 13, 2006
Messages
6,237
Re: New floor surface...

Boomyal said:
iwombat said:
Okay, so I'm in the middle of this myself. I'm redoing the benches and storage areas in the bow of a late 70's starcraft SS bowrider. I'm new to the whole fiberglass and wood thing. But here's what I'm getting.

1) Cut some good grade plywood to shape.
2) Saturate pieces with thinned out poly resin.
3) Lay wood in place and fasten down.

Finish appropriately.

That nautolex looks nice and easy, but I can't say I've seen it anyplace. What's the texture like?

Don't forget to glass it over after you fasten it down. The precoating with resin not only preserves the wood but keeps the raw wood from sucking up all the resin, leaving a weak bond with the fiberglass.

The nautolex texture is non skid. You do not want to slide across it with your bare knees.:%

It is very durable and easy to keep clean.

Now how does a good old boy get on his knee's in his own boat.......hmmmmmmmmm.........
 

Boomyal

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Aug 16, 2003
Messages
12,072
Re: New floor surface...

Tail_Gunner said:
The nautolex texture is non skid. You do not want to slide across it with your bare knees.:%

Now how does a good old boy get on his knee's in his own boat.......hmmmmmmmmm.........

Wishful thinking TG8) I was driving up thru Portland, on the Willamette, maybe 20+ mph, when I hit a rogue trough. The family was with me and I was standing up between the front seats, reaching over to keep touch on the wheel.

The boat rose up then dropped into the trough. That made me go airborne. When the boat rose back up, my feet were not under me and I dropped to the Nautolex:%

I had to scramble for all I was worth to pull myself up to grab the throttle and shut her down.

Needless to say, my knees looked like I had hit them with some 30 grit paper on my pnuematic sander.
 

dvan1901

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Mar 26, 2006
Messages
503
Re: New floor surface...

NAUTOLEX is a carpet like material right? I don't really want to put in a carpet again unless it is a snap in (and that stuff is pretty expensive). I'm looking for something that can be rolled/painted. I was in Lowe's and saw that American Traditions makes an anti-slip epoxy paint, but it is designed for concrete; do you think that it would hold up or peel off?
 

Lou C

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 10, 2002
Messages
13,064
Re: New floor surface...

Check out Durabak, they make a non skid textured coating specifically for marine use. I would definitely sand the floor and seal it with epoxy, and add a layer of fiberglass cloth before doing an anti skid paint/coating.
 
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