Re: power tilt and trim
it varies from model to model.
some have two springs and some have three.
some have no ball bearings, some have five, and others have anything between.
tips -
there is a hollow space below valve seat so you can not reface the valve seat, resuface the lower casting, or bead blast anything without removing the valve seat(s). use vaseline when reassembling. assemble unit upside down. most important - don't force anything. aluminum is soft. if you force it then you'll probably break it.
settings:
Spring compression varies from model to model based upon what type of valves are installed. You can calculate it by multiplying surface area of opening in valve face by 750PSI. For example - if your valve seat has a 1/16" opening then compress the srping to 2.3Lbs.
If you do not have a spring gauge then just start with four shims and use a pressure gauge to check output after assembly. Pump should deliver 700-800 PSI thrust and 350-600PSI hold. Too much pressure shortens lifespan of system. Too little pressure doesn't lift engine. Check pressure, reshim, recheck. It may take three or four (or five or six) tries to get it right.
or (from the school of duct tape repairs) -
Hook it up to engine using temporary tubing and the tilt ram. Hang some extra weight on prop. I dunno how much, maybe 20 lbs or so. run system up/down a few times to get out air. run it all the way up. if it doesn't lift then add shims to forward valve. If it lifts but has pressure lock on full extension then reduce front shims. keep shimming and reassembling until you can lift without getting pressure lock.