Re: Perko switch ? wrong one . . .
You may not like my response but it involves "reality". You either need to rethink your wiring or forget the switch as its adding complexity where it is not needed. A battery switch with OFF-1-BOTH-2 settings works like this. OFF obviously disables both batteries. In the "1" position, the starting battery only is connected to the engine and only it will be charged with the engine running. In the BOTH setting, both batteries are connected to the engine and both will be charged with the engine running. You do not need to select BOTH to start the engine. It's main purpose is to allow charginge both batteries while under way. In the "2" setting, only the trolling motor battery is connected to the engine and only it will be charged with the engine running. Now, here's the rub. Trolling motor batteries get discharged rather deeply and you would have to run the engine wide open for a very long while to bring it back to full charge. How long depends on what the alternator output is. Next, DO NOT run a ground cable to the hull of the boat. Just don't do it. The negatives of both batteries need to interconnected with the same gauge wire as the negative starting battery cable. Next, the trolling motor receptacle can be connected directly to the trolling motor battery since its already up front. It does not need to connect to the switch. Just turn the motor off or pull the plug when its not being used. Lastly, why go through all that bother with the switch. Carry a set of jumper cables and use them to jump start the motor if the start battery dies. How simple can it get.
Thx Silvertip . . . I just opened a fortune cookie after chinese takeout and the fortune says "Every wise man started out by asking many questions" Ha ha that is pretty appropriate.
Your response has me returning the $33 Perko switch so I like the sound of that!
I was trying to simplify things . . . problem is this new boat to save on manufacturing cost has all the electronicss directly wired and bolted to the starter battery terminals with no cutoff switch. Rocker arm type switches on the dash have no on/off indicator positions so if someone hits one (like me)it's going to be running the battery down.
I picture coming out of a motel at 6AM to hit the lake only to find a dead battery. So I figured with the Perko wired correctly I could flip the switch to off and "all" is shut down for the night. Removing both battery cables bolted onto the terminals with a wrench, at night in the rain is not my idea of a good time.
I think I have the troller issue solved by the installation of the Marinco plug and adapter today. As you say not I just unplug it and I'm good.
Carrying jumpers is not exciting either. I have a 2nd female Marinco adapter, I can connect t a couple of feet of some extra 6 gauge wire I have, ending in two spade connectors (the troller battery adapter now is mounted within inches of the starter battery now). I can use this to jump start from the troller battery if need be.
Also, this connector will allow me to still use the troller if I rent a boat somtimes, since the troller now has a Marinco male plug with no way to hook it directly to a battery now. This will convert it back to spade ends.
I think I might be able to use this spade attachment to charge my deep cycle battery by just clipping my charger leads to this other plug, so I don't have to get into the boat and pick up the front hatch each time to charge the troller battery.
So lastly, could you recommend an on off type switch (maybe a water proof one) since its close to the bilge, that I can install next to the starter battery. I can then shut down the electronics when I'm off the boat.
Bilge pump is a manual switch type, so cutting it's power won't matter.
Thx for all of your input.