Perko switch ? wrong one . . .

Expidia

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A search did not readily turn up my answer . . .

I bought a Perco switch yesterday (model #8501dp). Now as I ponder how to install it, it might not be the correct one for my needs.

This one seems to be for running two batteries and 1 motor off the same switch.

What I'm trying to accomplish is to use my outboard and it's starter battery and my trolling motor and it's deep cycle battery off of one Perco Switch.

It would be nice if my starter battery went I could switch the starting to the troller. I also want to be able to shut down all power at the end of my boating day.

The Perko's switch diagrams don't show this so I'm guessing I might need two switches. Any suggestions, do they make a model to do what I'm trying to do?

Thx
 

bruceb58

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Re: Perko switch ? wrong one . . .

Sounds ok to me. In addition, if you want to turn off the deep discharge battery from the trolling motor, you can add a single on off switch for that.
 

Expidia

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Re: Perko switch ? wrong one . . .

Sounds ok to me. In addition, if you want to turn off the deep discharge battery from the trolling motor, you can add a single on off switch for that.

Thx for that response. I don't mind just unplugging the trolling motor, because I'm installing a Marinco plug and adapter for the troller that just came today.

I had to run two 6 gauge wires from the bow to the transom because my boat is designed to have the trolling battery mounted near the bow. I don't use a bow mounted troller (mine is a transom mount), but I do like the deep cycle battery in the front as it helps distribute the weight better in my 15 foot boat.

But some sites recommended that one hooks up a heavy battery cable like a 4 gauge between the negative terminals of each battery. This would be difficult for me to do, since I just ran the two 6 gauges back to the transom.

Or do I just ground each battery to the boat. Would this give me the same as connecting the two batteries negatives together. It's aluminum.

Also, just a double check on the Perko connections . . . 1. My outboards positive starter cable to the common 2. My starter battery's positive to the positive #1 post of the Perko. My Deep Cycle 6 gauge positive coming from the bow to the #2 positive post of the Perko.

I guess to put this new Marinco adapter (looks like a cig adapter, accepts the plug I'm putting on the trolling motor wire) in line, I'd have to run a lead off the # 2 post on the Perco to the positive terminal on the back of the adapter. The 6 gauge negative coming from the troller battery goes into the back of the adapter.

Final result: All positions: both batteries for an emegency start. #1 only the outboard and it charges starter battery while motor running. #2 Troller's deep cycle battery and troller on. Does the outboards alternator charge the troller a little if the outboard is running when I select position #2 because the outbaord is connected to the common post?

Off: all off, when I'm trailering or am not using the boat.

Does the above wiring meet with the objectives I've outlined above?

I tried West where I bought the switch, but he was useless. So is trying to find an answer at Perko.com

Thx
 

Silvertip

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Sep 22, 2003
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Re: Perko switch ? wrong one . . .

You may not like my response but it involves "reality". You either need to rethink your wiring or forget the switch as its adding complexity where it is not needed. A battery switch with OFF-1-BOTH-2 settings works like this. OFF obviously disables both batteries. In the "1" position, the starting battery only is connected to the engine and only it will be charged with the engine running. In the BOTH setting, both batteries are connected to the engine and both will be charged with the engine running. You do not need to select BOTH to start the engine. It's main purpose is to allow charginge both batteries while under way. In the "2" setting, only the trolling motor battery is connected to the engine and only it will be charged with the engine running. Now, here's the rub. Trolling motor batteries get discharged rather deeply and you would have to run the engine wide open for a very long while to bring it back to full charge. How long depends on what the alternator output is. Next, DO NOT run a ground cable to the hull of the boat. Just don't do it. The negatives of both batteries need to interconnected with the same gauge wire as the negative starting battery cable. Next, the trolling motor receptacle can be connected directly to the trolling motor battery since its already up front. It does not need to connect to the switch. Just turn the motor off or pull the plug when its not being used. Lastly, why go through all that bother with the switch. Carry a set of jumper cables and use them to jump start the motor if the start battery dies. How simple can it get.
 

Expidia

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Re: Perko switch ? wrong one . . .

You may not like my response but it involves "reality". You either need to rethink your wiring or forget the switch as its adding complexity where it is not needed. A battery switch with OFF-1-BOTH-2 settings works like this. OFF obviously disables both batteries. In the "1" position, the starting battery only is connected to the engine and only it will be charged with the engine running. In the BOTH setting, both batteries are connected to the engine and both will be charged with the engine running. You do not need to select BOTH to start the engine. It's main purpose is to allow charginge both batteries while under way. In the "2" setting, only the trolling motor battery is connected to the engine and only it will be charged with the engine running. Now, here's the rub. Trolling motor batteries get discharged rather deeply and you would have to run the engine wide open for a very long while to bring it back to full charge. How long depends on what the alternator output is. Next, DO NOT run a ground cable to the hull of the boat. Just don't do it. The negatives of both batteries need to interconnected with the same gauge wire as the negative starting battery cable. Next, the trolling motor receptacle can be connected directly to the trolling motor battery since its already up front. It does not need to connect to the switch. Just turn the motor off or pull the plug when its not being used. Lastly, why go through all that bother with the switch. Carry a set of jumper cables and use them to jump start the motor if the start battery dies. How simple can it get.

Thx Silvertip . . . I just opened a fortune cookie after chinese takeout and the fortune says "Every wise man started out by asking many questions" Ha ha that is pretty appropriate.

Your response has me returning the $33 Perko switch so I like the sound of that!

I was trying to simplify things . . . problem is this new boat to save on manufacturing cost has all the electronicss directly wired and bolted to the starter battery terminals with no cutoff switch. Rocker arm type switches on the dash have no on/off indicator positions so if someone hits one (like me)it's going to be running the battery down.

I picture coming out of a motel at 6AM to hit the lake only to find a dead battery. So I figured with the Perko wired correctly I could flip the switch to off and "all" is shut down for the night. Removing both battery cables bolted onto the terminals with a wrench, at night in the rain is not my idea of a good time.

I think I have the troller issue solved by the installation of the Marinco plug and adapter today. As you say not I just unplug it and I'm good.

Carrying jumpers is not exciting either. I have a 2nd female Marinco adapter, I can connect t a couple of feet of some extra 6 gauge wire I have, ending in two spade connectors (the troller battery adapter now is mounted within inches of the starter battery now). I can use this to jump start from the troller battery if need be.

Also, this connector will allow me to still use the troller if I rent a boat somtimes, since the troller now has a Marinco male plug with no way to hook it directly to a battery now. This will convert it back to spade ends.

I think I might be able to use this spade attachment to charge my deep cycle battery by just clipping my charger leads to this other plug, so I don't have to get into the boat and pick up the front hatch each time to charge the troller battery.

So lastly, could you recommend an on off type switch (maybe a water proof one) since its close to the bilge, that I can install next to the starter battery. I can then shut down the electronics when I'm off the boat.
Bilge pump is a manual switch type, so cutting it's power won't matter.
Thx for all of your input.
 

Silvertip

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Re: Perko switch ? wrong one . . .

Yes -- Perko and others make a simple battery disconnect switch. Its either on or off. You would wire all your accessories to the ON side of the switch except the bilge pump (automatic type I assume) which would remain connected directly to the battery. You pull the positive battery cable and connect it to the switch. Add a short (new) cable between the battery positive post and the switch, mount the switch and you are good to go. I think these are less than 20 bucks. Check right here on iBoats.
 

Expidia

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2,368
Re: Perko switch ? wrong one . . .

Yes -- Perko and others make a simple battery disconnect switch. Its either on or off. You would wire all your accessories to the ON side of the switch except the bilge pump (automatic type I assume) which would remain connected directly to the battery. You pull the positive battery cable and connect it to the switch. Add a short (new) cable between the battery positive post and the switch, mount the switch and you are good to go. I think these are less than 20 bucks. Check right here on iBoats.

When I return the other Perko I'll see if West has the on/off one. If not I'll pick one up here.

Thx
 

Expidia

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Re: Perko switch ? wrong one . . .

They had another brand Blue Sea systems It was about $24 and I like it better than the Perco because it's smaller and keyed too. A solidly built unit.
I don't have a lot of room in this locker where the battery is so smaller is better.

I installed it and it's fine.

** But here is a question if someone can answer it . . . Since I ran a 12 foot run on 6 gauge cable from my troller's deep cycle battery (which is in a hold in the bow of the boat) back to the transom hold where the starter battery is and mounted a troller female receptacle in that hold for my transom model electric troller . . .

By the way, I used all Marinco plugs and adapters. They make great stuff. Great quality. The first brand I bought at West fell apart in my hand while installing it. If you buy Marinco stuff online you get nailed for high from many of the sites (I paid $ 41.98 for female adapters the first time).

But I found a Minn Kota plug and adapter set which is actually the Marinco for $25 for both at Walmart. This is a cheap price with no shipping too. I just returned one of the Adapters for $21.98 back to Amazon.

I hung a couple of feet of 6 gauge off the 2nd plug I bought and would like to plug in this plug into the transoms newly mounted female adapter and hook my AC battery charger to it so I don't have to climb into the boat, lift the hatch and hook up the chargers alligator clips each time I get back from fishing.

Does anyone know if the charger will pop the circuit breaker that is in this line about 7 inches from the battery. I'm thinking if it dows on the 6 amp setting maybe it won't on the 2 amp setting but that will take a long time to charge the battery at 2 amps?

My battery is full now so I can't tell until I drain it down again if the charges will pop the breaker?

Thx
 

Tredeb

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Joined
Apr 19, 2007
Messages
48
Re: Perko switch ? wrong one . . .

I have the switch you mentioned and I find it works well. My trolling motor is connected directly to the battery and has no switch. The 2 position, as mentioned, is for charging your trolling motor battery. I find, with my etec, that I need very little cruising time (15-30 min) to put a decent charge back on my trolling battery. It makes the difference if you are leaving your boat in the water or have poor access to electricity for a charger.

The one thing to remember, is not to troll on the 2 setting as I believe it will draw down your starting battery as well.

My switch makes before it breaks, so you are able to switch the setting while your motor is running without losing power.
 

Expidia

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Messages
2,368
Re: Perko switch ? wrong one . . .

I have the switch you mentioned and I find it works well. My trolling motor is connected directly to the battery and has no switch. The 2 position, as mentioned, is for charging your trolling motor battery. I find, with my etec, that I need very little cruising time (15-30 min) to put a decent charge back on my trolling battery. It makes the difference if you are leaving your boat in the water or have poor access to electricity for a charger.

The one thing to remember, is not to troll on the 2 setting as I believe it will draw down your starting battery as well.

My switch makes before it breaks, so you are able to switch the setting while your motor is running without losing power.

Ya, the 150 Etec probably has a much bigger alternator. I returned the Perko and went with just an on/off Blue Sea switch. I use an "off board" charger for the trolling motor. Since I trailer and the boats never left on the water. I doubt the Mercury 40 HP would give my trolling battery much of a kick anyway!
 
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