Shimming of gear balls

murphys_law

Cadet
Joined
Jun 28, 2007
Messages
9
I have just finished removing both gear balls and am awaiting new parts. I am a little confused on the shimming procedure. From what I can tell the seals, o-rings and such look to be in good shape. If I don't mess with any of this and just put the gears on is this shimming necessary?

Also while I was trying to pry off the gear from the upper gearcase I did some damage to the housing. There appears to be a metal gasket that seperates the 2? In an automotive shop we used some sort of a blue like cauliking ( permatex or permagasket )? Would this be ok to use or any sugeestions.

This is a used boat I purchased last year. All oil levels seem to be fine and no milky appearance of any kind. 1976 OMC Stringer (800) I think.:)
 

Manipulator

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Apr 11, 2005
Messages
743
Re: Shimming of gear balls

The thin plate behind the housing (bearing retainer) on the shaft is the shim, not a gasket. Don't need permanex here as the large o-ring takes care of anything getting in. You're going to need that. You don't need to reshim anything unless you're putting in new bearings. Even if you changed out the seals, no need for shimming. I would put new seals in, you can buy them separate from the ball gears. I just feel if you're going to all the trouble. Its ok if the shim is a little beat up as it doesn't seal anything. The upper gear case has one too, just reuse it. For some reason mine didn't have a shim under the upper housing bearing retainer. I beleive the previous own had that bearing replaced. Either the clearance was fine, or the mechanic simply forgot or screwed it up and just left it out. I've inspected the bearing when doing my ball gears and seals, it seems fine.




http://www.masonmarine.net/images/exploded_views/omc_volvo_pages_88_89.gif
 

murphys_law

Cadet
Joined
Jun 28, 2007
Messages
9
Re: Shimming of gear balls

Thanks for the quick reply. I bought a complete package and am awaiting the parts. A local boat dealer wanted $400.00. Ebay had a set for about $140.00. I also bought a new transom seal. Any need to put any extra sealer around this thing?

I was considering replacing the water pump ( impeller )? I think. The boat seems to run cool. It does seem to get a little warm when idling slow. Is this common? And what would you recommend as a normal and max operating temp.

Thanks again
 

Manipulator

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Apr 11, 2005
Messages
743
Re: Shimming of gear balls

I just changed out everything you're doing. I found a place that had a great deal on most of what I needed. I purchased most of my parts from them. They were total rednecks in the bayou but parts were new, were cheap and had no problems. As far as the seal goes, take it off and clean the transom real good. I injected the holes with Marine 3M 5200 and I went around the transom hole with it. They say you do not need to put any around the IM where the large clamp goes. When I removed mine it had been replaced before. It had Marine 3M 5200 in the groove on the IM and on the transom. So that's what I used. I have not had any problems. As far as the temp goes, my gauge has no markings. Just a low notch, middle and a hot one with some red after that. Mine runs mostly in the middle but will go over the middle notch a little bit. Sure its normal. Increased temp at idle could mean the impeller is getting weak or possible the seals. When you get going the water is forced in the drive, which aides in getting water to the motor. Anyway, that my thought. You midis well jump in and do it, it's easy. I can answer any questions you have. Look at the link I posted, you can get the whole pump kit with housing for $29.95. Can't beat that price! this is where I got my boot, pump and also water pump shaft.

https://shop.tungstenmarine.com/displayProductDocument.hg?productId=41
 

Lyndy

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Oct 15, 2006
Messages
437
Re: Shimming of gear balls

This is a used boat I purchased last year. All oil levels seem to be fine and no milky appearance of any kind. 1976 OMC Stringer (800) I think.:)

Nope, not an 800. They were introduced later than 1976 I think 1978. Below are some sample pictures of what they look like.

This is a 400 but similar enough for comparison:

model400.jpg


This is a Stringer in the General Age group as yours. It is a Low Profile. High Profile is a little taller:

6419_1_b.jpg
 

KaGee

Admiral
Joined
Aug 14, 2004
Messages
7,069
Re: Shimming of gear balls

REPLACE THE O-RINGS!

Replace everything that you get in the kit.
Be careful with the shims and you can re-use them. The shimming process with the special tools is only necessary when you replace the gears and bearings. If you damage the shims, you can use a micrometer to measure them for replacements.
 

murphys_law

Cadet
Joined
Jun 28, 2007
Messages
9
Re: Shimming of gear balls

Lyndy,

Thanks for the pics and everyone's wisdom. I should be getting parts over the next couple days. I'll be looking for some help in the future I am sure.
 

murphys_law

Cadet
Joined
Jun 28, 2007
Messages
9
Re: Shimming of gear balls

What is Locquic Primer? The book says to put this on the splines of the gear ball splines and nuts and air dry and then to let it air dry 3-5 min. And what is silastic rtv sealant.
Any recommendations on gear lube. It sounds like the upper and lower gearcase take the same oil?
 

Lyndy

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Oct 15, 2006
Messages
437
Re: Shimming of gear balls

If you have a 1976 Outdrive and it is an Electric Shift and not an 800, then the Upper and Lower Unit will use different Lubes. Which do you actually have?
 

KaGee

Admiral
Joined
Aug 14, 2004
Messages
7,069
Re: Shimming of gear balls

Blue Loctitie.
and the brand name rtv is rtv sealant.

Actually you are to use LOCTITE #609 retaining compound on the ball gear shaft. I used SUPER BLACK on the nut under the caps.
 

murphys_law

Cadet
Joined
Jun 28, 2007
Messages
9
Re: Shimming of gear balls

If you have a 1976 Outdrive and it is an Electric Shift and not an 800, then the Upper and Lower Unit will use different Lubes. Which do you actually have?

I am pretty sure it is electric shift. I had to unhook 2 wires that ran through the transom.

aahh... I just referenced the stern drive manual and it says to use a premium blend gearcasr lube for both. It doesn't diferrentiate.
 

Lyndy

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Oct 15, 2006
Messages
437
Re: Shimming of gear balls

OMC Type C Lube for Electric Shift Lower Gearcase
OMC Hi-Vis Gearcase Lube for Upper Gearcase
 

Lyndy

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Oct 15, 2006
Messages
437
Re: Shimming of gear balls

The name for the Lower Gearcase lube has changed over the years. Just make sure it states for OMC Electric Shift. The Hi-Vis would be better for the Upper. Others will chime in if I am incorrect.
 

KaGee

Admiral
Joined
Aug 14, 2004
Messages
7,069
Re: Shimming of gear balls

The name for the Lower Gearcase lube has changed over the years. Just make sure it states for OMC Electric Shift. The Hi-Vis would be better for the Upper. Others will chime in if I am incorrect.

Lubriplate still makes a gear lube for electrics. Make sure you buy "TYPE-C" whatever brand you buy for the lower. You can use the "C" in the upper and it will not hurt anything, except your wallet! :eek:
 

Lyndy

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Oct 15, 2006
Messages
437
Re: Shimming of gear balls

Lubriplate still makes a gear lube for electrics. Make sure you buy "TYPE-C" whatever brand you buy for the lower. You can use the "C" in the upper and it will not hurt anything, except your wallet! :eek:

:DSee, Told ya!:D
 

lilsinker

Cadet
Joined
May 24, 2007
Messages
11
Re: Shimming of gear balls

I have a '75 stringer and use type "c" in both the upper and lower. Shoot, with the price of gas nowdays, a couple quarts of "c" is nothing!!:D
 
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