Removing Hull scratches

WatrGirl

Cadet
Joined
Aug 1, 2007
Messages
9
Hi guys! I am new to this boating forum.
I have a couple of scratches from docking trauma. :eek:
They are not surface scratches, because I can feel them - but not really deep.
What are some good products to use on my brand new, first boat? I've been told I need to sand them out using water and a sanding block. What grit is best? Will I have to wax the boat after I get the scratches out?

I'm still learning how to dock without hitting the pier! :rolleyes:
 

blue77

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jul 31, 2007
Messages
32
Re: Removing Hull scratches

I can't answer your question, not enough expirence :D

What I can tell you from expirence is.. FENDERS....and if you hit a lot, LOTS of them and BIG ones ;)
 

stein

Cadet
Joined
Aug 1, 2007
Messages
6
Re: Removing Hull scratches

You will be surprised what will come out with a polisher and rubbing compound. I use 3M compound. Get it at any boat place, maybe even WalMart. Make sure you use a good low speed orbital polisher so you don't get swirl marks. I did mine last fall and got 99% of my scratches out. If you have some that won't come out, get some super fine grit sandpaper from Advance Auto or auto parts place. VERY fine grit. Use a little water and just sand them out. But that should be the last resort. Have fun. You will be sore!
 

gcboat

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
May 29, 2007
Messages
1,822
Re: Removing Hull scratches

If you have any scratches deeper than 1/32" leave em'. That is the approximate thickness of your gel coat. Go too far and you will be sanding into the first layer of lay up resin. Smaller superficial scratches can be buffed out ( there are thousands of products out there ) or as mentioned ,sanded and then buffed. I wouldn't use anything heavier than 1000# wet paper, finish up with some 1200 or 1500# wet. Little trick is to put a couple of drops of IVORY liquid soap in your bucket, keep dipping your paper into that. It keeps the paper from binding, smoother sanding. As stein mentioned a slow speed buffer is essential. If you don't have a lot of experience using one stay away from the wool pads if you can - they produce a lot of heat and sometimes can do more damage than good. Get the 3M foam pads. Black to start, white or yellow to finish. One more important thing is a cooler full of barley pop's. :D
 

WatrGirl

Cadet
Joined
Aug 1, 2007
Messages
9
Re: Removing Hull scratches

How can one measure a 1/32 inch scratch?
I can tell you, that right after the last scratch happened, I saw some powdery stuff around it? Is that the gel coat, or the fiberglass?
 

stein

Cadet
Joined
Aug 1, 2007
Messages
6
Re: Removing Hull scratches

I think if you're going to use the fine grit sandpaper, then just gently rub the scratch with the paper (wetted). It will start to form kind of a paste which is the gelcoat mixing with the water. If the scratch doesn't sand out after the GENTLE sanding, then don't keep sanding. It's too deep if gentle sanding doesn't remove it. You can fill those yourself, or take it to the dealer to fill -- they can match the color better. Don't worry too much about those little scratches. You will always have them!:D
 

WatrGirl

Cadet
Joined
Aug 1, 2007
Messages
9
Re: Removing Hull scratches

Okay, I used some Turtle wax rubbing compound (heavy duty cleaner). The scratch didn't quite come out, and now the area just around the scratch is dull and has little tiny swirls (scratches?) around it.
I thought I was rubbing gently, but I guess not gently enough? I used a soft cotton cloth for everything and rubbed by hand.
Now, how do I get it to be shiny again? I tried Mcguires Scratch X and then the boat wax, but still is dull.
Do I need to get an electric buffer now?
 

new_boater

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jun 1, 2007
Messages
293
Re: Removing Hull scratches

ok how about deeper scratches or gouges? i have a 1960 sea spirit that has some of these what do i fill them with and how do do finish them
 
Joined
Jul 30, 2007
Messages
27
Re: Removing Hull scratches

Deep scratches can be filled with gelcoat repair kits available at most boating supply stores.
 

QC

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 22, 2005
Messages
22,783
Re: Removing Hull scratches

Deep scratches can be filled with gelcoat repair kits available at most boating supply stores.
And they are actually reasonably easy to use. Follow the directions . . . ;)
 

studlymandingo

Commander
Joined
Mar 22, 2006
Messages
2,716
Re: Removing Hull scratches

Okay, I used some Turtle wax rubbing compound (heavy duty cleaner). The scratch didn't quite come out, and now the area just around the scratch is dull and has little tiny swirls (scratches?) around it.
I thought I was rubbing gently, but I guess not gently enough? I used a soft cotton cloth for everything and rubbed by hand.
Now, how do I get it to be shiny again?

The swirls around it and the dull finish are due to the fact you were using rubbing compound. There is nothing wrong with this, you used the right product, you just need to finish with polishing compound. Rubbing compound contains a more aggressive grit, the polishing compound is finer and used to polish the surface after you have used the coarser rubbing compound. This stuff takes some work as you obviously are experiencing, but with patience and perseverance you can get a great finish.

Good luck:)
 

WatrGirl

Cadet
Joined
Aug 1, 2007
Messages
9
Re: Removing Hull scratches

No. You need a polisher. A buffer won't do it...

Is the Mcguires Scratch X considered a "polisher" or a "rubbing compound"?

And,
In what instances would you use a product such as Marine Tex - as opposed to the rubbing and polishing compounds?
At what point should I stop rubbing with the compounds and attempt to "fill the scratch" with something like Marine Tex? Is it possible to rub too deeply as to make it worse?

Thanks a bunch for all the replies!
 

bjcsc

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Jun 1, 2006
Messages
1,805
Re: Removing Hull scratches

Is the Mcguires Scratch X considered a "polisher" or a "rubbing compound"?

And,
In what instances would you use a product such as Marine Tex - as opposed to the rubbing and polishing compounds?
At what point should I stop rubbing with the compounds and attempt to "fill the scratch" with something like Marine Tex? Is it possible to rub too deeply as to make it worse?

Thanks a bunch for all the replies!

ScratchX is a compound. By polisher I was referring to the machine you use (polisher vs. buffer). A filler would be used on a gouge, not a scratch. If it's fillable, it is beyond a scratch and no compounding will make it better. At best, you'll lower everything around it to the same level. You can make it worse by over-compounding/sanding. The top of the gelcoat is smooth like glass. Under the top layer, it can be a little porous. If you sand through into that layer, the pores will trap polish, wax, dirt, whatever and make the spot you sanded always visible.


Polisher:
00917556000



Buffer:

ccr20050601bo_s04.jpg
 

Acer2428

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Aug 6, 2007
Messages
82
Re: Removing Hull scratches

What is the preffered method for fixing a gouge? Marine-Tex?
 

WatrGirl

Cadet
Joined
Aug 1, 2007
Messages
9
Re: Removing Hull scratches

"What is the preffered method for fixing a gouge? Marine-Tex?"

Yes, I'm wondering the same......should I use Marine Tex, or a gelcoat repair to fill in a deeper (fillable) scratch?

Also, once it's filled and sanded down, will the polishing compound and polisher be able to make that filled scratch shine just like the rest of the boat? In other words, can you make the scratch/gouge completely disappear?
If not, then I'll probably just leave it. Or, do you HAVE to fill a gouge so that particles cannot get caught in it?
 

Reel Poor

Vice Admiral
Joined
Jan 29, 2005
Messages
5,522
Re: Removing Hull scratches

Go to spectrumcolor.com and see if they list your boat. If they do buy the paste kit to repair scratches and gouges.

If the gelcote is scratched/gouged to the fiberglass you need to fill it with something to keep water from weeping into the glass between the gelcote and the fiberglass.
 

bjcsc

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Jun 1, 2006
Messages
1,805
Re: Removing Hull scratches

"What is the preffered method for fixing a gouge? Marine-Tex?"

Yes, I'm wondering the same......should I use Marine Tex, or a gelcoat repair to fill in a deeper (fillable) scratch?

Also, once it's filled and sanded down, will the polishing compound and polisher be able to make that filled scratch shine just like the rest of the boat? In other words, can you make the scratch/gouge completely disappear?
If not, then I'll probably just leave it. Or, do you HAVE to fill a gouge so that particles cannot get caught in it?

I would use a gelcoat repair kit. But, keep in mind, that even if you're filling a white hull, it might not be as white as you think it is. RP's suggestion is a good one, esp. if you're dealing with color. That said, convince yourself in advance that getting the color close is just fine - it will not be a perfect match. The upside is that after a few weeks you won't be able to find it anyway.

You will be able to make it completely disappear. Once it is filled (make sure you just slightly overfill it) and cured, this is what you do:
1) Take an old windex bottle or equivalent and clean it out. Fill it up with water and give it a few drops of dish detergent. Shake it up till it's foamy and let it settle. You'll also need a small bucket of water.
2) Get the following sandpaper grits: 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1500, 2000. You want wet/dry paper, 3M makes it, and you can get it at Wal-Mart in the auto section next to touch-up paints, bondo, etc..
3) You need blocks to sand with. You can buy one that fits your paper, but typically repairs like this are smaller, and the blocks you can buy are big. You can buy a piece of trim at a hardware store (like 1x2 for example) and cut 3-4" pieces to use as blocks and use a staple gun to attach the paper. Either staple the sides or the top, so allow for that when cutting the paper.
4) Spray the repair area with the soapy water and starting with the 400 grit, right on top of the repair, sand it down. Keep the block flat, and keep it wet. Do not push hard, let the paper do the work. At first, only the top of the material you applied should be coming off. If you get gelcot smears on the paper you're using too much pressure or not keeping it wet enough. If it builds up on the paper, rinse it in a bucket and rub the paper clean with your fingers. Once it feels smooth with the surrounding area when you rub your fingers/hand over it, rinse it off well and move up to 600 and then move through the others in a similar fashion. You can also use a light or a good angle to the ambient light, to check it via reflection.
5) If you use the grits through 2000, you won't need rubbing compound. A polish will work just fine. But, you have to use a polisher. There is no way to get it by hand. Polish the area until it disappears.

It's not as hard as it may seem. Gelcoat sands easily...
 
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