Electric shift 50 HP?

[reelfishin]

I was given a 1971 50 HP the other day along with a set of single cable/pushbutton controls. The motor was taken off an old boat that had sat for about 35 years or so in a barn. It has 130 pounds of compression on each cylinder and looks pretty clean. The throttle cable is shot and someone cut the wire harness about midway to make removing it easier.

My question is, are these as bad as they say? I have an older boat that this would be perfect on but don't want a headache motor. Is there a way I can check the shift solenoid to see if it all works before investing any time or money in this?

So far everyone that has seen it agrees it's clean for a 1971, but I've been told over and over to junk it and find a non electric shift motor.

Also, there's a micro switch on the throttle cam that has no wires on it? The boat it was on was destroyed by a falling tree, thus why I ended up with the motor, but the motor was well protected and didn't suffer any damage. I didn't remove the motor, it was pulled from the boat by the owner and sat in his garage for a few years as well since then.

I have no other experience with any electric shift motors, so any input on this would be very helpful.

 

[F_R]

Re: Electric shift 50 HP?

There are two generations of electric shift. Yours is the second generation and is more accurately called Hydro-Electric shift. The biggest problem with them is ignorance. And boy is there ever a lot of ignorance out there.

The second biggest problem is the push button switch. They gave a lot of trouble. New ones are hard to find and expensive when you do. It will also work with a Johnson control which has a better track record, but they do have the same problem, just not so much.

There is nothing wrong with the hydro-electric shift. It is a good design. Like anything else, it requires proper maintenance. It requires special oil. Water intrusion into the oil will kill it, just like any other gearcase.

BTW, I am trying to rebuild a first generation electric shift lower unit and can't get it apart because some cretin has messed it up. Back to the ignorance thing. If he had known what the heck he was doing this wouldn't have happened. As it is, I am going to have to cut the case open and shuck out the internals for parts. What a waste.

 

[stormin1]

Re: Electric shift 50 HP?

Something to consider for all electric shift posts & questions. May be a commonly known / simple thing but I just figured it out. I have a 72 Lark 50HP electric shift that isn't shifting into Neutral or Reverse. I've read all of the posts I could on how to check each electrical connection for continuity for Neutral & Reverse and have had no luck with confirming continuity.
Today I was out messing with it and just happened to jiggle the key with the tester hooked up. Bammo!! It lit up. When I let go of the key, the light went out. So all this time of testing for continuity for Neutral & Reverse and it was the ignition switch preventing a successful test. That may be basic knowledge for most of you, just thought I'd throw it out there to save someone else at least one headache.

 

[F_R]

Re: Electric shift 50 HP?

Sometimes we forget or ignore the simple stuff. Thanks for the heads-up.

 

[Boatnik70]

Re: Electric shift 50 HP?

One thing that's nice about the design is that even if you have electrical problems with the switch or the solenoids, it will still run fine in forward. My solenoids were weak and tended to "grind" a little in reverse, and I ended up disconnecting power to the solenoids altogether. My 85hp is mounted on a 15-1/2 ft. ski boat, so what do I need with reverse?
Seriously, I don't know when I'd ever need reverse anyway....from what I've seen, people tend to use it largely to rev back and forth while trying to "drive" their boat back onto the trailer.

 

[reelfishin]

Re: Electric shift 50 HP?

... My 85hp is mounted on a 15-1/2 ft. ski boat, so what do I need with reverse?
Seriously, I don't know when I'd ever need reverse anyway....from what I've seen, people tend to use it largely to rev back and forth while trying to "drive" their boat back onto the trailer.

Reverse = brakes in the close confines of a crowded marina. With a larger, flat bottom boat that don't handle so well, reverse can be a necessity.

I tried to start it today, the prop turns with the starter, it started and I have reverse, but no neutral.
Is there a simple way to work the shift solenoids sans the control buttons to see if the problem lies there? The motor was supposedly a good running motor, but the controls came from another source, although they are identical to the ones on that boat, these are from another source. I have the originals, but the harness will need to be spliced and the cable needs to be replaced.
What about the micro switch on the throttle linkage under the hood? It's not hooked up, no loose or unconnected wires either. The buttons are sticky on both controllers, but with a firm push they seem to work, they seem to bind more on the sides of the trim panel then internally. The key switch on both work with no key, a screwdriver does fine.

 

[F_R]

Re: Electric shift 50 HP?

There are two wires, green and blue, coming up from the lower unit. If I am getting the location right, they are on the port side of the powerhead, by the exhaust cover. Slide the insulator back and check the voltages on the wires (with them still connected). You need 12 volts on green for neutral and 12 volts on BOTH green and blue for reverse. It's very likely your push button switch is shot.

You can also check the lower unit by using a jumper wire from the battery (+) directly to the two wires as above. (disconnected in this case). Motor has to be running for shifting to actually happen.

 

[larky]

Re: Electric shift 50 HP?

F R
the wires are on the starboard side

reelfishin

also under the cover plate for the shift buttons there is a part called a link yoke, not sure what it does, but it can get in the way of the button travel.

 

[papasage]

Re: Electric shift 50 HP?

your motor should look like this . i have had 3 of them .still have the one pictured above . replaced the foot on one with a 1974 standard shift foot .
be sure to drain all the foot oil and use the OMC type C oil for the eletric shift . be sure to use a ledd additive in that year motor unless the pistons have ben replaced .

 

[larky]

Re: Electric shift 50 HP?

never heard about the lead additive, please explain

 

[F_R]

Re: Electric shift 50 HP?

The link in the control prevents shifting with too high a throttle setting. I predict a war starting on the lead issue, so won't comment on that. There WERE some engines that required premium leaded gasoline. Very unfortunate timing on OMC's part because it was just before lead was outlawed.

 

[reelfishin]

Re: Electric shift 50 HP?

your motor should look like this . i have had 3 of them .still have the one pictured above . replaced the foot on one with a 1974 standard shift foot .
be sure to drain all the foot oil and use the OMC type C oil for the eletric shift . be sure to use a ledd additive in that year motor unless the pistons have ben replaced .

Yep, same motor, even down to the hydrafoil fin, (which I already tossed).
It does shift if I apply voltages are above, so the problem is in the switch.
Why can't I just set up my own set of shift switches? It's a fishing boat, so I don't much care about appearance or being original. Just so it gets me there and back.
The not shifting at higher RPM is pretty much common sense, so the don't bother me much. I may also just try taking the switch unit out of the controller, the buttons are binding on the plastic bezel, that may be hindering the shift too.

 

[F_R]

Re: Electric shift 50 HP?

Let me be clear that I am telling you not to do this. It is unsafe and could damage your motor if used incorrectly or accidently. But if you insist on doing it anyway, here's how it's done:
http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s311/frankr_photos/HydroElectricToggleSwitch.jpg?t=1187087788