Help needed w/ trailer setup (pictures)

[Joe_the_boatman]

My second boat (still don't have one that's seaworthy yet, but I digress...) Bottom line is, I don't know how to properly set up a trailer.

I've read:
Have 7-10% of total weight as tongue weight.
Bunks should extend underneath transom to support it.

Boat is a 18'6" Starcraft with no motor; weight is approx 900lbs dry. Motor will be a 60hp Mercury 2-stroke. There is a 20 gal gas tank near the stern, also.

About the trailer:
Previous owner thinks it's a "bass boat" trailer. He bought it as a temporary trailer when he was in a bind picking up another boat. He kept the good one and sold this one with the boat. Trailer wiring was done at 8 o'clock at night in a dark field - don't laugh!

Rollers on the bottom are about 1-2" short of touching the keel. All weight is on the 2 bunks. It's a steel trailer with 13" wheels. I towed it 80 miles, 70+ mph at times, and it did fine.

With that being said, my bunks are 22" short of the transom. The winch/bow stop can be moved another 6" forward, leaving me 16" short back there if I move it up all the way. (yes, it may also throw off the weight distribution, but we'll deal w/ that when the motor's mounted).

So....
Is this trailer too small? No ID or load ratings are on it anywhere.
Can I just make new, longer bunks to support the transom, or should I leave it?

Boat/trailer was $200. I'm hoping to be under $500 with new transom, floors, and paint; a new trailer really isn't in the budget.

 

[wire2]

Re: Help needed w/ trailer setup (pictures)

It looks to me like the front of the bunks have no contact with the hull for ~24". I'd adjust the bow stanchion to get 60-80 lbs tongue weight with the motor on and fuel in tank. Then move the bunks back to support the transom.

That's not a very heavy boat, and the 13" wheels suggest it's a medium duty trailer. I think you'll be fine with it. Just keep the tires inflated to the sidewall recommendation for the weight.

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: Help needed w/ trailer setup (pictures)

In my opinion, approximately a 2 foot overhang on 2 x 4 bunks on their sides is too much. Either turn the bunks 90 degrees so they are on end, go to 4 x 4 bunks, or extend the front of the trailer. It looks like the front wheel is right up against the coupler. If that's the case, a couple of feet of square tubing and some gussets and a half dozen bolts should do it. Or have a welder attach it. Then you will have plenty of room to move the winch forward.
Center rollers should be adjusted to touch keel when boat is sitting properly on trailer. They should have a little pressure against it, but the bunks should do almost all the supporting.

 

[Nova II 260]

Re: Help needed w/ trailer setup (pictures)

IF your balance is good now, i.e trailer level, no wag, no steering lift at speed, then you have the boat loaded in the best position. But you have not tryed it with the motor on (I assume). Once you're rigged-up and loaded with stuff, get the rig weighed and set the tongue weight at around 12% (ballpark) Then see where the boat needs to sit. Your bow stop should be above your bow eye and your winch strap close to level. This will help to keep it from creeping up on ya in a panic stop.
You may have to change the location or shorten your bowstop arm and maybe moving the winch post to get the optimum setup. The longer the tongue the better she likes it....when launching and loading.
But, DO plan to support your transom, even if you have to get longer bunks or put in an addition cross member.
Keel rollers will help you center and give a little support.

 

[wire2]

Re: Help needed w/ trailer setup (pictures)

Good point, Frank, I hadn't really considered the overhang thing, although it may well be less than 24" when he's got the tongue weight right.

I don't think welding or bolting a longer tongue on, and moving the winch & boat ahead that much is feasible either, will probably make the tongue well over 200 lbs. Then he'd have to move the axle/springs/fenders ahead to compensate.

OR, extend the back of the trailer by ~ 20" to support the bunk. Far less work.

There ya go, Joey, lots of ideas to pick from.

 

[Joe_the_boatman]

Re: Help needed w/ trailer setup (pictures)

Thanks guys!

I'll be "dry docking" the boat for a paint job, figured I'd get the trailer right at the same time. I'll let you know what I come up with.

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: Help needed w/ trailer setup (pictures)

i agree with Frank. 2x4 on the flat cannot carry that span.

 

[burroak]

Re: Help needed w/ trailer setup (pictures)

Assumptions:

The trailer is rated for the boat:

It seems that it is.

The trailer tows at speed correctly:

The driver is not the best judge of that unless the trailer gets to the chaos point. - swerving and swaying. Have a partner tow the vehicle at different rates of speed while you follow and observe any departures from straight line tracking. The owner is the best judge of what is acceptable, anyone can read a speedometer. The early stages of poor tracking is subtle and a visual from the rear will show up. So that checks out.

The poorly supported overhang of the transom is problematic. The4 X4 will raise the boat 3.5" at the ramp. Floating a boat at low water docks may be an issue. Any 4 X 4 of reasonable cost will be of poor quality that can be weak and take its own idea of straight. You'll never know how it wants to warp until it has been through the wet and dry cycle a few times.

IMO, locating a 3' C-channel of iron at a scrap yard to apply under the 1 1/2" bunks should provide a back bone sufficient to support the transom. A rabbet joint on either side of the bunk material will make for a clean appearance and protect the hull from being damaged by the iron C-channel. Before installing the C-channel, set the risers for the bunks at the correct height, paying close attention to assure that the bunks are evenly contacting the hull. The channel iron can be curved, if needed, to the bunk risers with C-clamps and a smoke wrench if necessary.

The tongue weight is too light:

Move the winch post forward, allowing the boat to move forward. If not enough, shorten the the flat bow bumper supports, allowing the boat to move forward.

If it is still to light, reset the winch post to a more acute angle, it will allow the boat to move forward.