'92 Johnson 225 hard cold start

[boatsonthebrain]

Hello all,

My engine has developed a problem starting when cold. I need to crank for 3-5 minutes to get it to start, then it runs quite rough, coughing and sputtering with copious amounts of smoke until warm. Once the engine is warm it starts fine repeatedly with no drama.

I know the battery is good, compression is good & I follow the general guidelines for starting: pump up bulb until hard, push in key to choke, etc.

Any thoughts?

Thanks!

 

[Dhadley]

Re: '92 Johnson 225 hard cold start

What spark plugs are you using? What's their general condition / age?

 

[boatsonthebrain]

Re: '92 Johnson 225 hard cold start

What spark plugs are you using? What's their general condition / age?

I'm using the recommended Champions (also tried the recommended NGKs) properly gapped to IIRC 0.30. I'm wondering if it has something to do with the choke. If I pull the plugs during the cold start process they're covered in fuel. Or could be a weak spark even though the battery is at full charge and plenty of CCA.

BTW, fuel filters are new with good gas.

Other ideas?

 

[Dhadley]

Re: '92 Johnson 225 hard cold start

OK, look up under the flywheel and check the 6 outer magnets. If they are loose we'll need to pull the flywheel and reglue them. They should be tight and evenly spaced.

We'll assume you're using the QL77JC4's gapped at .030.

BTW -- OMC never recommended any plug other than Champions. Be real careful when using other brands.

 

[CharlieB]

Re: '92 Johnson 225 hard cold start

Please clarify your starting procedure.

Pump up, push in choke, etc.?

How long are you on the choke?

What is your throttle position?

Many people have a habit of leaning on the choke for a couple of seconds or more before cranking, Many times this will flood the engine

Please be specific and describe your procedure.

 

[Dhadley]

Re: '92 Johnson 225 hard cold start

This motor does not have a choke, it uses the primer system. If the plugs are wet during the start process it means the primer is working so you could indeed have a weak spark. The ignition system does not rely on the battery for inital spark (it's a magneto system) other than the starter must turn the flywheel at least 350 rpm.

 

[boatsonthebrain]

Re: '92 Johnson 225 hard cold start

This motor does not have a choke, it uses the primer system. If the plugs are wet during the start process it means the primer is working so you could indeed have a weak spark. The ignition system does not rely on the battery for inital spark (it's a magneto system) other than the starter must turn the flywheel at least 350 rpm.

Thanks for the input everyone. I do indeed have QL77JC4s gapped correctly at 0.030. Procedure is to pump up, push in key, turn and crank, holding key in. If I try just pusing in the key (prime) a couple seconds while cranking and then release the key (prime off) but continue to crank as someone suggested over the summer, it will never start when cold. In fact, anything less than constant prime while cranking will never yield a start.

I haven't had a chance to check the magnents yet but will take a look in good light in the morning and report back.

If it is a weak spark, what could be causing it other than the magnets? The PO replaced the rectifier a couple of years ago, other than that it has just received regular maintenance. Motor has 650 original hours.

 

[Dhadley]

Re: '92 Johnson 225 hard cold start

Once the system has pressure (from pumping the bulb) you can hold the key in for an 6-8 count, then engage the starter. The pressure in the system will be released thru the primer without cranking it. If the spark & compression is as it should be, it should pop off almost immidately.

You mentioned the compression is good so lets look at the basics. Start with the magnets. If they're OK, run a spark check with the plugs in and then with the plugs out.

We're also asuming you have 87 octane fuel that's less than 30 days old.

 

[boatsonthebrain]

Re: '92 Johnson 225 hard cold start

Once the system has pressure (from pumping the bulb) you can hold the key in for an 6-8 count, then engage the starter. The pressure in the system will be released thru the primer without cranking it. If the spark & compression is as it should be, it should pop off almost immidately.

You mentioned the compression is good so lets look at the basics. Start with the magnets. If they're OK, run a spark check with the plugs in and then with the plugs out.

We're also asuming you have 87 octane fuel that's less than 30 days old.

I finally had a chance to check the magnets. Wriggling my fingers up under the flywheel I tried to push or otherwise move them but they all feel solid and won't budge.

You had mentioned a spark check. Is a spark checker something I can pick up at a Pep Boys-type store or is it a special item?

Thanks!

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: '92 Johnson 225 hard cold start

yes preferable and adjustable one. spark should jump 7/16 inch, on each plug wire.

 

[MarkV_Deep6]

Re: '92 Johnson 225 hard cold start

Hello all,

My engine has developed a problem starting when cold. I need to crank for 3-5 minutes to get it to start, then it runs quite rough, coughing and sputtering with copious amounts of smoke until warm. Once the engine is warm it starts fine repeatedly with no drama.

I know the battery is good, compression is good & I follow the general guidelines for starting: pump up bulb until hard, push in key to choke, etc.

Any thoughts?

Thanks!

I had a problem very similar to this, it caused me to do some dumb things and now am trying to fix all the problems. Long Story.

Check the wires on the primer pump and ensure it is working correctly. I have the same starting/priming system you have and it works flawlessly.
When the problems started one of the wires on my primer had corroded through, but was not readily visible. The plugs were a bit wet when trying to start so I did not suspect the primer. As soon as this wire was reconnected the engine was back to normal.

 

[boatsonthebrain]

Re: '92 Johnson 225 hard cold start

I had a problem very similar to this, it caused me to do some dumb things and now am trying to fix all the problems. Long Story.

Check the wires on the primer pump and ensure it is working correctly. I have the same starting/priming system you have and it works flawlessly.
When the problems started one of the wires on my primer had corroded through, but was not readily visible. The plugs were a bit wet when trying to start so I did not suspect the primer. As soon as this wire was reconnected the engine was back to normal.

MarkV, thanks for the tip! Is there an easy way to tell me where the primer pump is, otherwise I can go dig out the SELOC ;-) Thanks again!

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: '92 Johnson 225 hard cold start

primer

 

[Dhadley]

Re: '92 Johnson 225 hard cold start

The primer is a solenoid (valve) rather than a pump. It'll have a red lever on it and 3 hoses. All 3 pretty small but one slightly larger than the other 2. If you pull the hoses off to check flow be very careful. Those little hose nipples break off real easy. Also check the cap for cracks, kinda common.

 

[ezeke]

Re: '92 Johnson 225 hard cold start

Your engine's powerpack incorporates QuikStart, which may not be functioning. If QuikStart does not activate [advance the timing] on the cold engine, it will indeed be much harder to start.

 

[MarkV_Deep6]

Re: '92 Johnson 225 hard cold start

Wow.... with all this advice you should be able to find the problem pretty quick.
Another bit of advice; Loose the Solec manual and get the real thing. The Johnson Evinrude manuals will save you a lot of time and money! They cost more, but are worth every penny!

Let us know how your doin.

 

[boatsonthebrain]

Re: '92 Johnson 225 hard cold start

Thanks all for your pics, advice and encouragement. Well let you know what I find.

 

[boatsonthebrain]

Re: '92 Johnson 225 hard cold start

Hi all,

Just wanted to thank everyone for the input on my cold start problem last fall. Due to impending bad weather I ended up having to shrinkwrap the boat before getting a chance to further diagnose the problem.

Now that spring has almost sprung here in New England, the boat is back in the water and the problem ended up being caused by a bad powerpack. Turned out the engine was only getting spark on one cylinder bank and, once a new PP was installed, it fired right up just like it used to. Now it runs great.

Hope this helps somebody down the road!