Drain on the new transom

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drewmitch44

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Im getting the wood for my new transom in and im curious as to the drain. The drain type that was there is this kind http://www.iboats.com/Garboard_Drai...06590770--**********.286425566--view_id.39405 . How it was is this was mounted on the outside and the wood on the inside transom was exposed inside the hole that ran to this fitting. Is there some type of tube that needs to be there like the splashwell drains? What is the standard procedure for installing the drain in a new transom install with all new wood. As soon as i get it all dont ill post pics im just waiting for my clamps to come hopefully tomorrow. I have no clamps to clamp the wood to the outer skin. Thanks a lot for any advice!! I got to protect this wood from getting wet!!!
 

TheWoodCrafter

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Nov 20, 2007
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Re: Drain on the new transom

My boat has what looks like 1" brass tube that is flared inside and out and uses an expandable rubber plug with a lever on it (to expand it). Like a splash well drain.
I would think you can buy these that are flared on 1 side. Drill a hole, install with 3M 5200 and flare the outside. Never installed one but looks like that is how you would do it.
My splash well had plastic tubes that cracked and leaked, don't use plastic.
 

drewmitch44

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Re: Drain on the new transom

I got my splashwell drains on lock. I made them myself with PVC fittings from Lowes and some Tubing that they cut by the foot there. I used it on the old transom before i started ripping it out. I made it really well and it costs like 5 bucks per drain. A little more than standard drains buy its well made and i know that no water touches the wood. Now i need to know what everyone is doing with a garboard drain to keep water off the wood. Or should i just install one of those plug type drains??? And figure a way to flare it out. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!!!
 
D

DJ

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Re: Drain on the new transom

Brass rots, PVC doesn't.

I removed the brass "tubes" out of my Boston Whaler and replaced them with PVC. Much to the chagrin of Whaler afficianados.

However, I look it as an improvement to a great hull.

The trick, with "through hull" fittings, is to seal them. Use 3M-5200, and you'll be fine.
 

oops!

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Re: Drain on the new transom

ditto...^^^^^^^^^^^
 

OhWellcraft

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Jun 22, 2007
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Re: Drain on the new transom

When I redid my transom I had two splashwell drains and the bilge drain to do and was in the same boat as you are. I heard pros and cons of every system so I ended up using the brass tubes. Didn't want to spend the money on a flaring tool that didn't work all that well, so I came up with my own way to install that worked very well for me. After I drilled the holes through my new transom I carefully preped the holes, cleaned very well with acetone then sealed (3 coats ) with thinned epoxy and allowed to dry. I pushed the tubes through from the inside, figured it would be easier to work on outside, and temp blocked tight to inside skin with 2x4 then marked outside 1/8" to 3/16" longer. Remove tube and cut to marked length I used a hacksaw to avoid damageing tube, then deburred and sanded outside of tube to make better adhesion. Then I slathered tube and inside of hole with 5200 and pushed tube in (from inside). Most important step, block tube tight to inside skin so it is tight and cant move. I used a 2x2 piece flat on tube then a 2x4 wedged from front of bilge area to my 2x2 use a shim or two if need be to make it tight. once it was braced well I moved to outside. You need two ball peen hammers one medium size and one large size.(cheap at harbor freight if you don't have them) insert the ball of the medium into tube and use the bigger to drive ball into tube it will start to flare out just go easy and use controlled taps once the smaller one bottoms out switch to the bigger ball in tube and continue tapping and flareing once the bigger one bottoms out you should be at a point where you can use the smaller ball to peen it tight to the outside by tapping around the edge just work it easy using the ball end of the hammers once it is all peened over you can give it a few taps with the flat end to get it real tight to the outside glass. Wipe up excess 5200 that was squeezed out, let cure and your done. It sounds like a lot but I did each of mine in about 15 minutes per(excluding dry times of course) that was three years ago and haven't had any problems. I like the plugs that use the t handle to screw them in over the lever type they seem alot more secure. Not saying this is the only way to go just relaying a method that has worked very well for me. Good luck and sealing the wood with some thinned epoxy is the most important part.
 

ozzylr

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Jun 29, 2011
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Re: Drain on the new transom

I just posted a thread regarding the flaring tool. I don't agree with the idea of using plastic since it will degrade with sunlight and isn't near as strong and durable as the brass. The flaring tool will work just fine if you anneal the tube before flaring. I have the flaring tool and you can use it. If your interested I will explain a guaranteed method of sealing better than the above which while you would think would be good really isn't.
ozzylr
 

ezmobee

Supreme Mariner
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Mar 26, 2007
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Re: Drain on the new transom

Please look at the thread dates ozzylr. This one is over 3 years old.....
 
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