Accessories turn off on battery 2

[utk1997]

I have a 2005 280 Sundancer. When I turn the battery selector switch to battery 2 my accessories (radio, lights, fridge, etc) all turn off. The battery is new and I just put in a new selector switch to see if this was the problem which was not. What else should I be looking for?

 

[Randy169]

Re: Accessories turn off on battery 2

The basics.

Check all fuses and connections.
If any are bad - fix. (Bad connections) I suspect a bad ground somewhere...
If good, continue... (We like good connections and fuses)
Disconnect both batteries.
Connect either battery directly to accessory lead.
- do the accessories operate?
If Yes, switch or connections are bad. (Bad connections)
If No, somewhere in the wiring there is a break in the accessory feed. (Isn't that great when someone says that? Somewhere?!)
Test it with an ohm meter to make sure there is continuity.

Let me know how far you get and that will determine the next step(s).

 

[fishmen111]

Re: Accessories turn off on battery 2

If they work when on #1 and cut off on #2, they are wired to battery #1. Common practice to save a dedicated battery for starting. Cruise in position "all" or "both" to keep both batteries charged. Anchor up...switch to the accessory battery to isolate a battery just for starting. When under power, switch back to both to recharge.

 

[Silvertip]

Re: Accessories turn off on battery 2

I agree that the accessories are wired directly to battery #1. Everything should be connected to the COM terminal on the switch so you can operate accessories from either or both batteries. The only thing that should be wired directly to the battery is the bilge pump -- and only then if it has a float switch.

 

[45Auto]

Re: Accessories turn off on battery 2

What exactly does work when you switch to battery #2? Does the boat crank OK on battery #2? Or is EVERYTHING (starter and engine and accessories) dead on battery #2? If the accessories were wired directly to battery #1 (either at the battery terminal or at the switch) they would work irregardless of the position the switch was in as long as battery #1 has power (same reason Silvertip pointed out for wiring a float-switch bilge pump directly to the battery - doesn't matter where the switch is, the pump will work as long as the battery has power). Many boats are wired exactly like this (accessories directly to one battery) so they don't loose the radio presets every time you switch batteries.

You probably have 3 terminals to connect wires to on the switch - BATT 1, BATT 2 and COMMON. Make sure it is wired correctly and someone didn't accidently hook it up using one of the BATT terminals as the output. If BATT 1 is being used as the output and battery #1 is actually connected to COMMON, then putting the switch in position 2 would turn off everything as you describe (except for items wired DIRECTLY to either battery - is your starter wired directly to either battery?).

 

[utk1997]

Re: Accessories turn off on battery 2

Nothing works on battery 2, the port engine wont even crank. I know there have been some responses about making sure everything is wired correctly. I have had the boat 3 years and have never had this problem so I am not sure why it would be wired incorrectly. Is there a master fuse that could have blown?

 

[45Auto]

Re: Accessories turn off on battery 2

Shouldn't be any kind of fuse between batt 2 and the switch that would shut down everything. There would be AFTER the switch, but in that case nothing would work in either position. Since nothing works and you've tried a new switch, I would start at the #2 battery:

1) Is it charged? Just checking it with a voltmeter won't tell you anything, a totally dead battery can still show 12 volts.

2) You should be able to track down where the voltage stops with a voltmeter. Hook the negative on the voltmeter DIRECTLY to the battery so you don't have to worry about whether the negative cable is good or bad:

A) Is there 12 volts at the battery terminal? - If not, batt is dead.
B) Is there 12 volts at the INPUT on the switch? - If not, pos cable is bad.
C) Is there 12 volts at OUTPUT of switch? - If not, switch is bad.

If you get 12V at the output with the voltmeter negative lead hooked DIRECTLY to the battery, move the negative lead to the far end of the negative cable and see if you still have 12V. If not, then the negative batt cable is bad.

3) Another way is to swap the pos cables coming from batt 1 and batt 2 AT THE SWITCH. If pos 2 works now (it's using batt 1 now), something is wrong with your batt 2 cables (either pos or neg). Many times people use automotive battery cables when wiring up dual batteries because they are much cheaper than marine cables. For examle, a 2 foot #2 gauge Pep Boys auto cable is $7, a 2 foot #2 gauge marine cable is $55. Adds up to several hundred dollars difference when you need 3 or 4 cables to run the switch and 2nd battery. Problem is the auto cables are NOT tinned internally and the copper will corrode over time where you can't see it until you get no continuity. Swap the cables from the working side to the dead side one by one until the dead side starts working.

Good Luck!

 

[m&m252]

Re: Accessories turn off on battery 2

awesome explanation 45auto

 

[Boatist]

Re: Accessories turn off on battery 2

I agree with 45 auto.
First your accessories can not be wired to battery one as suggested. If they were then it would not matter where you put the switch. The only thing that would matter is if battery one was charged.

So since they work in postion 1 and not in postion 2 they are wired to the common post.

This to me means it is
1 Discharged or Bad Battery 2, OR.
2 Negitive battery cable dirty or loose connection at either end but usually at the battery end. OR
3 Positive Battery cable dirty or loose connection at either end but usually at the battery.
4 New switch defective or has an insolator on terminal 2.

How to troubleshoot. 45 autos way very good if you have a voltmeter.
I would turn something on that you can see or here in the battery 1 position. Lights, Bilge blower, Radio.

Now switch to position 2.

Now look or listen to what ever you turned on.
Now I would start at the battery.
If you have a meter or test light messure from battery post to battery post.
Put the meter in 12 volt dc postion, RED lead to pos or + and Black lead to Neg or - post. With the load if you get 12 volt then it not the battery.

Next move the meter leads to the battery cables again looking for 12 volts. If still have 12 volts it is not the connection to the battery.

Next hook the black lead to whatever the black lead form the battery connects to. Motor block or whatever.
Red lead still on the POS or + battery Cable.
Still get 12 volts and the the negitive on - battery cable is good.

Leave the black lead on the engine block and move the red lead to the post 2 on your switch. If get 12 volts there the red battery cable is also good.

Move the red lead to the common post on the battery switch if still get 12 volts then the switch is good.

Last thing to check would be to make sure the Negitive lead from battery one and the negitive lead from battery 2 go to the same place or are connected together.

If you do not have a meter then still turn on something you can See or Hear.
Put the switch in position 2 then take on the black negitive battery cable and clean battery post and inside of the cable connection. Check the outher end of the black cable where it goes to engine ground and make suer clean and tight.

Next will be the RED Positive or + battery cables.
When working with the Red or Positive or + Cable it is very important to not let your wrench touch anything but the postivity cable. It it on the positive cable and hits anything metal then you can get a big spark and melted wires or fire.
Remove and clean and reinstall the red cable or positive cable.
Clean and reinstall the other end of cable on switch position 2. Again do not let wrench hit anything.