Newby Safety Glassin Stringers Mtr Mnts Supplies

garbage-man

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Apr 5, 2008
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7
Hello All and thanks for creating iBoats.

I have an old 87 family boat FourWinns 190 that has rotten wood.

I was just going to replace the stringers and floor but after reading Oops posting I am going to convert it to a 3 story house boat;o Just kidding.

My garage is attached to the house and we are concerned about the fumes from Glassing. I painted a car using killer yellow primer one time and we got sick. Is this something I can do in an attached garage? I can rig up whatever type of venting is required.

I have uploaded a few pictures here: http://picasaweb.google.com/tech.jenkins
http://picasaweb.google.com/tech.jenkins/BeforeRepairs

I need to know everything: where to get glass supplies in Austin Tx, what to use to make the stringers with, old look like 4x4's, Motor Blocks look like they were 4x6. I need to get some CCA PT plywood GreenwoodProducts.com XL panels. I need to get the wood and start drying it. I would like to read a book or two. I have been reading many posts here, does someone have a pdf or a list of posts to get me started?

Note: the transom has been redone and is good.

I would like to just do a quick repair if possible and get back on the water after three years. Should I cut out the back 5 feed of deck and remove the foam and gas tank and inspect? Motor and stern drive have been removed.

Why might I need to remove the ?top? and is there a thread on this and the seam piece?

Thanks in advance for all your postings here and any assistance you are aboe to offer.

Mark
1987 Four Winns 190
 
Last edited:

jcsercsa

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May 21, 2007
Messages
3,401
Re: Newby Safety Glassin Stringers Mtr Mnts Supplies

Hay garbage-man welcome !!!

Well you are just doing stringers, and deck ??? are you going to use poly, or epoxy ?? On a list of threads just use the search ,on stringers .

to funny on the house boat !!!!!

Are you sure on the transom ?? whould hate to see you have to have to go throw all this again in a few years !!

The best spot i have found on the net is http://www.uscomposites.com/cloth.html
They have the best prices I have found !!!! Unless califorina is closer the florida , there is a place in cal, that has some good prices but the shipping is what gets yea , If you need there site i can find it for yea !!!

Ok again welcome , and isnt this place great !!! john
 

garbage-man

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Apr 5, 2008
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Re: Newby Safety Glassin Stringers Mtr Mnts Supplies

John,
Thanks so much for the suggestion and material source. I will search on stringers and compile all that information. I don't know what I am ging to use as I don't yet have a clue. I was kind of hoping for some guidance in getting started. I am sure I will find much searching for stringer.

Thanks!
 

i386

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Aug 24, 2004
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Re: Newby Safety Glassin Stringers Mtr Mnts Supplies

AFAIK, polyester resin (or maybe the catalyst) really smells. I'm using epoxy resin from the source noted above and it has very little odor to it at all. I think JB weld is epoxy though and it really stinks so idunno hmm.... Anyone?
 

jcsercsa

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May 21, 2007
Messages
3,401
Re: Newby Safety Glassin Stringers Mtr Mnts Supplies

John,
Thanks so much for the suggestion and material source. I will search on stringers and compile all that information. I don't know what I am ging to use as I don't yet have a clue. I was kind of hoping for some guidance in getting started. I am sure I will find much searching for stringer.

Thanks!

Yea you bet theres a lot of choices!! I am going with epoxy it sticks to anything !! and you dont need matt when you are going that way so a few less steps !! it does cost more , when you glassing with poly first is a layer of matt the woven then matt then woven again then i think a layer of matt again !!!! and epoxy will form a chemical bond. where poly is just a mechinal bond { when you grind and ruff it up ] there are a lot of guys doing it that way , it will work but i just trust epoxy !!!
When you start to grind make sure you have a good mask and dont wash your cloths in your washmachine all the glass will get on other cloths !!!! and oops is useing one of the throw away suits , that would work really well !!!
I am useing a cement cutting disk , there 2 bucks at home depot, it really eat that old glass I have only use 3 of them !! , just becarefull !!! there also a flapper that you can get at home chepo, think i read 24 grit !!!
A good grinder is a must,and when i am grinding i run the shop vac at the same time just moving the hose to where i am throwing the dust !!!! it really cut down on the dust !!1
Other then that read some will really help fuigure out what you want to use and do !! we are all here to help so good luck and keep the post comming !!! JOHN
 

garbage-man

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Apr 5, 2008
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Re: Newby Safety Glassin Stringers Mtr Mnts Supplies

Thanks for your suggestions. I have cut into the boat and although the transom was done a couple of years ago, the boat has been out of the water since, they did not do the transom where the stringers meet up. I am wondering if it worth the trouble to glass the stringers seperately to encapsulate them? One place it seems may be worth it is isolating the transom from the stringers in case there is future damage. I am guessing it is not worth it?

The gimble housing seems to have the lower studs pulled out. Does anyone have a source for these or do I have to buy new?

I am strongly considering pulling the motor mounts out and redoing them. Does anyone want to caution me from doing this?

Please look at my pictures in my signature. It seems the boat was build with a bulkhead 8' from the transom. I am considering rebuiding the boat aft of this bulkhead. HOWEVER, if you look at the picture, it appears to be blackened. The boards that to fore of this go under the cap. Do I need to redo the entire boat? I would like to replace the rub rail anyway because it is dinged up. I would like to get it into the water soon though.

What kind of wood do ya'll think I should use? I have heard outdoor plywood is sufficient. I have also heard that will not prevent root and have considered pressure treated wood?

Thanks for your suggestsions. I will impliment them this weekend :D
 

garbage-man

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Apr 5, 2008
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Re: Newby Safety Glassin Stringers Mtr Mnts Supplies

Here are some pics.
Not sure if I need to replace my fore bulkhead? :confused:
Does it look like this gimble housing? is bad due to pulled threads?:confused:
 

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salty87

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Aug 12, 2003
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Re: Newby Safety Glassin Stringers Mtr Mnts Supplies

welcome, garbage man

is that middle pic your fore bulkhead? its been absorbing water, might was well do it while you're in there.

austin lumber co. on e 5th can get marine plywood, best price i could find around town. i didn't want to bother with drying PT.

i also ordered from us composites although there's a place off 35 near 71 (josco) where you can get 5 gal buckets of poly resin and rolls of chopped mat. you still need to order heavier cloths and other items from elsewhere though so that's not much help. i've gotten a few 5 gal buckets from them.

generally, you want to build up layers of plywood rather than use dimensional lumber...esp in stringers.

as for pulling the cap, i couldn't imagine trying to work around it. this is a nasty job, fiberglass dust will be everywhere. and, no point in doing all of this to leave something questionable behind...your call though.
 

garbage-man

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Apr 5, 2008
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Re: Newby Safety Glassin Stringers Mtr Mnts Supplies

Salty,

Thanks for the info. I now plan on removing the cap, I need to replace the rub rail anyway. Do you know if I can make a 2x4 frame and lift it off with an engine hoist? I think I'll give that a shot as that is how I removed the body from my car.

Thank you for all the supply sources.

At this point I guess I am gutting the boat. It is probably fastest to just go ahead and get it over with.

Now the big question is do I need to redo the transom? It was done a couple of years ago but they did not get behind the stringers. OK I know you are going to tell me might as well replace it while you are in there. OK nough said, I'll cut out the motor mounts and the stringers too inless someone thinks otherwise?

Thanks,
Mark
 

Coors

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Dec 8, 2006
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3,367
Re: Newby Safety Glassin Stringers Mtr Mnts Supplies

2x6 legs, with 45 degree braces to the header; (2) 2x12 for the header, nailed or screwed every 8"

Then use the non stink epoxy.
 

garbage-man

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Apr 5, 2008
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Re: Newby Safety Glassin Stringers Mtr Mnts Supplies

2x6 legs, with 45 degree braces to the header; (2) 2x12 for the header, nailed or screwed every 8"

Then use the non stink epoxy.

Coors,

Thanks for the guidance. I am afraid I am a little lost here. It kind of sounds like I am making a stand to set the cap on using one 2x12 per side and having legs every 8". Then duplicate for the other side. Or are you referencing how to build a lifting jig? Perhaps it is easier if I just clean out the other side of the garage and have 6 people lift it and set it on the floor? I am sorry I know my green-ness is shining through ;):confused:
 

salty87

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Aug 12, 2003
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Re: Newby Safety Glassin Stringers Mtr Mnts Supplies

the cap will be heavier than it looks with the dash and open bow area attached (you have open bow i think). the windshield adds a good bit of weight at the front. the stern will be feather light and floppy...so, it's kind of akward to move around. i rigged a lift with 4x4 posts, the top half has been hanging in it for months. there's no way mine could have been lifted out by hand but i have an interior hull wall in my boat which meant it had to go higher. what i'm trying to say is that you might be able to get enough hands under it but it's heavy and akward, you don't want to mess it up, and if you have any problems its not something you can easily or quickly just set back down once its halfway out.

setting it on some saw horses in the garage would be good, lift it up and pull the trailer out from under it, lower it if you can. mine was so heavy i left it up there, ran 2x6's under it between the 4x4 posts. i'll just back the trailer under it when ready.
 
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