Won't go into drive

kjginter

Recruit
Joined
Aug 14, 2008
Messages
4
I am brand new to this and to boating, so I'll try to minimize the stupid questions, but no promises. I have an 88 Bayliner with a 3.0L and an OMC outdrive. I finally got the motor running and tuned and am running the hose in the driveway. I can get the prop to go in reverse, but nothing in the forward direction. Also, I checked the lower end of the outdrive oil and it was very milky. Only small minimal shavings on the magnets though, so I think that's good. Any suggestions where to start for a newby? BTW, I really enjoy these forums and am learning a lot just by reading everyone elses posts.
 

chiefalen

Captain
Joined
May 18, 2008
Messages
3,598
Re: Won't go into drive

I got good news and not so good news for you.

Good news your boats gonna live. Bad news you got to adjust the cable.

Good news, might just be a adjustment. Bad news lower cable might be shot.

Good news probably not alot of money. Bad news the drive got to come off to start the adjustment.

Good news you get to put in a new impeller. Cause when the drive is off you would be crazy not to.

Good news you get to see what the gears look like. Bad news is you got to drain the drive.

Heres the link to the adjustment. It don't work new cable sorry.

http://www.hastings.org/~stuart/cobra/kw-shift.html

Good luck!
 

kjginter

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Joined
Aug 14, 2008
Messages
4
Re: Won't go into drive

Thanks chiefalen for the reply. I took the boat to the marina shop today to get an idea of what is wrong with it and they said it was a bad (kinked) cable, and said it was $600 to fix. That's not even getting to the big part of why is there water in my gear casing. The marina guy said it would be upwards of $1800-2000. Does that sound right? Is this something that I could figure out on my own? For that much money I could buy a brand new rebuilt lower end. I'm not sure if this is something I could do on my own or not. I consider myself somewhat mechanically inclined, but I am very intimidated right now. What's your thoughts?
 

Bondo

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Staff member
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Apr 17, 2002
Messages
71,103
Re: Won't go into drive

Ayuh,.... Welcome Aboard,....

1st off,.... I don't do OMCs,...
But,..
I think the shift cable job you could probably pull off by yourself,,.
With a Manual,+ the Help from the iboats crew...
There are a few OMC Diehards that still work on them...

Resealing the outdrive might be possible, but it requires a few special Tools,+ some Knowledge,...
Some of that maybe found in manuals,+ maybe the Help from the Crew....
But usually is left to be done by guys who do it everyday,....
I send mine out to a fella 20 miles up the road,...
It's just not worth the investment on All the specialized Tools for Me,+ my Merc.s...
 

kjginter

Recruit
Joined
Aug 14, 2008
Messages
4
Re: Won't go into drive

Thanks for the welcome and the advice Bond-O. I dropped the boat off with the mechanics today for a thourough inspection and guestamite. They said it would be $200 max for the look see. I figure that could be the best thing I could do since I am new and unsure. I'll keep you guys posted about what they find and how I'm going to go about it.
 

carpaediem123

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jul 25, 2008
Messages
33
Re: Won't go into drive

Dude, OMC is a different animal from Merc or VP. Many peeps in here will tell you they don't do OMC, and there is a reason for it. OMC went out of business several years ago, causing parts to be scarce, a good mechanic hard to find---and so forth. You have two options. 1. become an OMC expert OR 2. find a great mechanic that is CONFIDENT about OMC.

Sounds to me like you have two, seperate, unrelated problems. THe shifting should be a simple adjustment in the cables and linkage (replacing components as necessary). The water in the drive is another problem and is BAD---must be addressed immediately because YES replacment OMC drives (and parts) are expensive. It could be as simple as a bad O-ring, or it could be as bad as a prop shaft seal.

let the drive sit in the down trim position for something like 48 hours (or better) and then drain it from the VERY BOTTOM. Water will settle to the bottom of the drive while it sits and apon draining (if you watch for the dope to turn from water to clean oil) you will begin to get some idea how much water is actually in it. Your drive should hold about 2 quarts of fluid. It could be just a little from years of neglect an poor maintenance. The only way to know is to completely drain it, fill (from the bottom up!) with clean gear lube, go boating (I recommend a short trip) let it sit, and check it again.

I'll let you mull all of that over, and will keep an eye on this thread.
 

kjginter

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Joined
Aug 14, 2008
Messages
4
Re: Won't go into drive

Well, here's the outcome from the mechanic... basically scrap it. They said that the u joints are bad, and the input shaft is damaged. They quoted $2200 for the entire repair, including the drive cable. Said if I just wanted to come and get it, I would get some pieces back in a box. YUK. Any thoughts? Starting to understand that good deals aren't always good deals. This is probably more than the boat is worth.
 

Bondo

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Staff member
Joined
Apr 17, 2002
Messages
71,103
Re: Won't go into drive

YUK. Any thoughts? Starting to understand that good deals aren't always good deals. This is probably more than the boat is worth.

Ayuh,..... You have My Condolences,....

I just Hope that the boating world hasn't lost another enthusiast to the dreaded Great Deal,...
Of an old Bilgeliner/ OMC combination......

It's either the Hull is rotted out,+ falling apart,...
Or,..
There's the Drive's broken, unobtainable, but Necessary part that's listed in the parts books as NLA,.....
Or,...
The Hull is Rotted out,... The Motor is Knocking, or just doesn't run,+ the Outdrive is lacking NLA parts.......

Whatever you decide,..... Good Luck.....
 

mthieme

Captain
Joined
Oct 6, 2007
Messages
3,270
Re: Won't go into drive

I'll take my OMC over an Mercruiser any day of the week.
They are easier to work on and are less complicated.
In 20 years, mine has only required a cable and just this year a bellows kit.
Now, outside of adjusting the cables, replacing it requires the outdrive to come off. If you are comfortable with this, the cable runs about $100. Routing the cable was a little tough on my Searay - dunno about yours - it's a pretty stiff cable.
But - big BUT. milk and shavings are not a good sign. I would be extremely concerned about this. I would change the oil, run it, and re-inspect it.
Good news, Alphas are common and will bolt right up to a Cobra outdrive. Rebuilt units can be had for $750.
 
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