Chip in water jacket

[Capt. Steelhead]

Hi again, this time after running my '61 Evinrude 40HP Lark notice water coming out of lower spark plug hole sludge in my garbage can. My guess was a blown headgasket I was correct when I pulled the head off I saw at the 1 oclock position on the bottom cylinder a broken gasket (the compression seal ring) and small chunk out of the cooling jacket sleeve. Is this removable? none of the cylinder liner is damage is this something I should be worried about I was thinking about cleaning it up real good and building it up with a steel epoxy diferent expansion rates I'm not sure it would hold up how hot would it get any ideas? When I was loosen head noticed they weren't that tight I just got this motor and probably shoulv'e tighten/retorqued bolts possible root cause?

 

[F_R]

Re: Chip in water jacket

What you have there is common in salt water motors, caused by corrosion between the liner and the aluminum. Yeah, I know yours looks like it is a fresh water one, judging by the clean water jackets. Either way, I have been largely unsuccessful trying to fix them when that happens.

 

[Okee Jimmy]

Re: Chip in water jacket

It looks like it ran for a while with a blown head gasket, eroding the block away from the cylinder liner. The bulk of the sealing is on the cylinder liner, it may live for a while if you build up the area around the liner with JB weld or something similar. All you would be out is a head gasket if it doesn't seal. Also, check to see if there is any play in the connecting rod/crankshaft/piston pin. Sometimes when water is entering the cylinder, and crankcase, the needle bearings rust, and cause excessive rod clearance resulting in a thrown rod. You will need to take the cylinder head to your local machine shop to be resurfaced, because, by the looks of the block the head is almost certainly warped or burnt in the area of the blown gasket. The only way to be 100% sure of a repair, would be to replace the block. I'd give it a try, if the head gasket doesn't seal, you could pick up a used block or maybe a complete powerhead on ebay, or Craigslist.

Good luck, Jimmy

 

[Capt. Steelhead]

Re: Chip in water jacket

Okay thanks, I'll check the head with straight edge/feeler gauge machine flat if needed go for building up that area with JB weld do they make that stuff for Aluminium? whats everybody's opinion on using a plate of glass and 320 grit wetsand for minor disortion? Thanks again for the help, Paul

 

[mikesea]

Re: Chip in water jacket

Thats an unfortunate siituation.I too have tried and saw many others try in vain to get a seal that will work.It may work for a while.But ,sooner or later fail.You dont want to trust any repair.Based on yr of eng,my advice is,find another eng.that you can trust.You will never be able to trust that repair.You have 2 different metals,a repair with epoxy,heat and cooling along with a small area for compression seal.On larger ,newre engines the repair is total dissassembly,boring the old cyl sleeve out,cutting the bad alum cast down with further boring and then installing a flanged sleeve that replaces the alum with a metal flange that is part of the cyl sleeve.Way too much money for the eng you have,You may be fortunate enough to get a replacement powerhead assy,assuming your lower end is worthy or a replacement block and rebuild it with your parts.Ebay often has parts.One last possibility,if you know a GOOD alum.welder have the area built up with weld and dremel it down then using a 100 grit on a piece of marble resurface the block.Good luck

 

[captlee]

Re: Chip in water jacket

I had a similar issue years ago with a 85 johnson. I tried various repairs and it would last for an outing or 2, then id come in on 3 clyinders and have to fix it again. Made it thorugh a season then repowered in the spring. I havent heard of many people having sucess with repairs to a block like that. Id suggest looking for a powerhead. Good luck.

 

[Capt. Steelhead]

Re: Chip in water jacket

Yeah I would agree so far the repair has worked perfectly I believe the prep work for the JB Weld is the key to success grinding down to bare metal scrapping notches for the metal epoxy to hold to and wiping down with acetone then dry rag whether the repair holds for awhile longer? time will tell I'll let you know, right now I'm catching fish. Paul