Chrysler 35, wiring help!

CaptOchs

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I have a Chrysler 35HP M/N: 354HD. I was given this motor to replace a bad Johnson. The problem is the control wiring harness has been completely disconnected and the previous owner neglected to document which wire goes where. There's a junction box inside the engine that is mounted nearly vertical. Can someone help me which wire goes where?

Thanks!
 

Frank Acampora

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Jan 19, 2007
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12,004
Re: Chrysler 35, wiring help!

Wires are color coded. Standard wiring is from the top: Yellow, purple, white, green, orange, red, blue, black.

Depending upon what ignition system you have, the engine wires will be different colors--for example, magneto ignition has two brown wires connecting to the blue and white terminals, while battery ignition will have two blue wires connected to the blue terminal.

In almost all cases, the purple wire is not used. It is a signal wire for an a/c tachometer.

The Chrysler Crew (Google it) has a chat room tonight from 9pm eastern time to 11 pm.
 

CaptOchs

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Re: Chrysler 35, wiring help!

Ok, I got to hooking it up. I have my junction box looking something like this:

Engine --- Control cable
Yellow --- Yellow
Empty --- Empty
Large Red --- Large Red
Black* --- Blue
Black* --- White
Green --- Green
Empty --- Orange
Empty --- Brown
Large Black --- Large black

The two unknown black wires go up underneath the power-head. They don't look original, so I have no reference. The large black on the bottom is also grounded to the engine block. This doesn't work.

You said if it was dependent if I have a magneto or battery start. I do have a battery start. I also have an electric choke.

Please help because I'd like to know if this motor will work before Winter. It's already getting colder in Western NY.
 

Frank Acampora

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Re: Chrysler 35, wiring help!

The two BLACK* wires that go up under the flywheel tell me that this is a magneto ignition engine. The two BLACK* wires are the stop circuit. The cable blue and white connect to these terminals and to the "M" terminals on the ignition switch. When the switch is off, both "M" terminals are in continuity and short the points together. Thus: even if you were to crank the engine by hand you would get no spark with the switch off.

The ORANGE wire is always an overheat indicator circuit. On the head somwhere there will be a sensor. Most times on these older engines it is a 5/8 inch head bolt with a switch glued on top and a terminal sticking out. An orange wire connects from the sender to the engine terminal and the orange wire in the cable connects to the same terminal. Under the dash, a power wire connects to one side of the overheat indicator and the orange wire connects to the other. If the engine overheats, the sensor closes and power will now flow through the indicator to ground through the sensor.

The very top and bottom screws on the terminal board are mounting screws and are not used for anything else. You will see that they screw the bakelite engine terminal board to the engine block on the exhaust cover plate, or an aluminum mounting plate.

TOP wire is YELLOW and is the stop circuit. One side of the microswitch (neutral interlock) is connected to it while the other side goes to the start solenoid. The yellow in the cable goes to the "S" terminal on the ignition switch.

The empty below the yellow would be purple and as I said before it is not used.

Now: Your wiring is not the standard Chrysler wiring order since the next wire should be WHITE with one of the black wires from under the flywheel going to that terminal. The white in the cable will go to one "M" terminal on the ignition switch.

Next should be GREEN with the green choke wire and the green wire from the cable attached to this terminal. The green cable wire connects to the "C" terminal on the push-to-choke ignition switch.

Next should be the ORANGE terminal.

Next should be RED with one red wire coming from the battery side of the starter solenoid and the red wire in the cable attached. This wire connects to the "B" terminal on the ignition switch and supplies power for the choke, starter solenoid, and the "I" terminal. The "I" terminal is used to power accessories that must be on when the engine is running--like gauges and overheat indicator-- but off when the engine is stopped.

Next would be BLUE with the other black wire from under the flywheel attached and the blue wire in the cable attached also. The blue cable wire goes to the other "M" terminal.

Finally, there will be the black terminal, This terminal is grounded to the block with a jumper to the mounting screw and the black in the cable connects to this last terminal. It is only used under the dashboard if you need a ground (like for gauges). If this is the large black wire you mentioned, it will be about the size of #10 wire, or twice as large as the other wires in the cable. It doesn't really matter where you connect it (terminal board or block) since ultimately everything is grounded through the block to the battery negative.The battery black is massive, like jumper cables and bolts directly to the block or the lower engine pan which should also be connected to the engine block with a massive jumper wire.

There is no brown wire on the terminal board but perhaps what you are seeing is a faded purple--with age, they frequently appear brown. Or, since you appear to have too many terminals, it could be another ground that the previous owner installed.

NOW: after having gone through all this, actual order of the wires on the terminal board is not critical since all are independent. What is important is that the correct cable wire is attached to the proper colored terminal wire.

Have fun and good luck.

By the way: If you want to check for spark, disconnect the two black wires (coming from under the flywheel) and insulate them. If you crank the engine now and get no spark, then either the points are dirty, worn, or improperly gapped (.020) or the condensers or magneto coils are bad. Points would be the first thing to check. With the two wires disconnected, the engine will start and run but you will not be able to stop it unless you short them together. If the engine has spark with them disconnected but no spark with them connected, then the ignition switch is bad.
 

CaptOchs

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Re: Chrysler 35, wiring help!

Frank,
You are the best! I followed your directions and we're almost there. I either have a faulty switch or a break in the yellow line somewhere. I don't have voltage at the junction box for yellow when I turn the key. So the engine won't turn over. However, if I jump voltage to it then the starter kicks on. That ought to be simple enough for me to figure out thought!

Is the orange wire required for the engine to run? I see the sensor on the bolt, just as you said but it wasn't hooked up to anything. So I ran a new wire from the orange on the junction box to the sensor on the bolt. The same goes for the dashboard. The orange was taped up underneath. I don't see a overheat indicator. My 100 HP Johnson has light. Would I just need to pick up a basic 12v light and connect the orange to the negative and the red to the positive? Then if it overheats the light will turn on as a warning?
 

Frank Acampora

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Messages
12,004
Re: Chrysler 35, wiring help!

Before you replace the ignition switch, check the neutral interlock. There will be a brown micro-switch about 2 inches long attached at the shift linkage lever usually on the starboard side of the engine. If the linkage is out of adjustment so that the white button in the center is not depressed in neutral, then the power can not pass to the solenoid. This prevents you from starting the engine in either gear. If the white button is fully depressed in neutral, then look for a loose, broken, or detached yellow wire and check the ignition switch: With the switch in start position, you should have 12 volts to ground at the "S" terminal --Positive voltmeter lead to "S", negative lead to ground. If not, replace the switch.

Orange wire is completely separate; it only energises the overheat indicator. The engine will run without it. You can buy a simple 12 volt red light in Pep Boys or other auto stores, or you can buy a buzzer. I have both on different boats. The only problem with the light is if you mount it in a conspicuous location, the sun tends to wash it out and sometimes you just will not see it. The buzzer usually gets your attention better since it vibrates the whole dashboard.
 

CaptOchs

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jul 3, 2007
Messages
230
Re: Chrysler 35, wiring help!

Frank,
I was trying to figure out why they had the purple wiring going to the S terminal on the switch. Then after about an hour tracing the yellow wire I found out there's a break in it somehow. That's why the purple wire (tach) went to the yellow junction box and the S terminal on the switch. Instead of running another wire, someone just hooked the purple into the yellow's spot. Since the yellow wire was useless I cut it back so it won't be used again.

Good news! After I got it hooked up, it started right up. The engine purred like a kitten. I'll have to wait until this weekend to give it a sea trial.

Thanks for your help
 
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