Suggestions for upgrading bunk trailer?

Wee Hooker

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Sep 11, 2005
Messages
618
I just bought a new package that came with a Yaght club 1500# galvanized bunk trailer. The boat itself is 16'x6' aluminum and will weight approximatly 900# or so fully rigged. My issue is that I've always ahd roller /roller bunk combination trailers and am not looking forward to owning a bunk only style trailer . ( Which seems to me is going to load/unload different according to ramp steepness, water depth etc.) Since I often fish/launch alone, and from varing places, I want the trailer to be as user friendly as possable. Since the bunks on this trailer are around 8' long, I don't see a commercially available replacement roller bunk available. :-(

Questions:
Are those plastic "glide strips" worth adding over the carpeted bunks?

Would adding a (poly) keel roller at the rear and/or forward edge of the trailer help (Not sure if aluminum boats are supposed to support weight that way.

Any opinions on adding a flat switch that activates a LED when the trailer (rear) is at optimum depth?
I do plan on adding a good set of post guide-on's ( with my lights up high/dry) but would appreciate any other rigging/usage advice beyond that.

Thanks
Dave
 

Silvertip

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Sep 22, 2003
Messages
28,771
Re: Suggestions for upgrading bunk trailer?

Keel rollers are perfectly acceptable and I'm surprised the trailer doesn't have them. The rollers can be adjusted to provide some support as well as the bunks providing side to side stability. Loading and unloading a boat from any trailer is a matter of experience. People that routinely have trouble either back into the water too far or not far enough. Roller bunks are not a good solution because of the small roller diameter. Too little contact area.
 

reelfishin

Captain
Joined
Mar 19, 2007
Messages
3,050
Re: Suggestions for upgrading bunk trailer?

Those plastic guide strips work great, some are so slick that they act like rollers.
The also don't hold dirt like carpet can. I had a pair of them on a flat 2x6 bunk trailer that were on there for years, they were pretty beat when I redid the bunks and didn't care to spend the dollars on new ones, I made something similar from nylon strips, I just added several strips to each bunk. These are slipperier than the flat ones were. Picture a 2x6 with the bunks laying flat with 7 or 8 linear strips of white nylon with counter sunk stainless screws holding them down, and running the length of the boards. They give less friction than the flat bunks and I used the old front end of the old bunk covers to cover the rear end of the new boards. I do think that if I were to do it again, I'd have used full width nylon and just milled in the grooves with a router. It would have meant less screws and less labor to install.

Having a bunk trailer don't necessarily mean more work loading, just that you will need to find what works best for your rig. The only drawback I've seen to some bunk trailers is more frequent bearing maintenance since the trailer wheels are usually completely submerged each time. I just carry a grease gun a give the bearings a shot before heading home each time to be safe, but I do that on all my trailers.
 

180shabah

Rear Admiral
Joined
Mar 26, 2005
Messages
4,995
Re: Suggestions for upgrading bunk trailer?

YES those nylon "slicks" work. Even on a shallow ramp you better leave the saftey chain attached to the bow eye. Don't ask.

Seriously though, we are talking about lkoading a 900lb boat, you could pobably pull it by hand if you don't quite back in far enough. I have had no complaints with my bunk trailer in the last three years. It took a couple of retrievals to get it right, but now I know exactly how deep to back it in.
 

Wee Hooker

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Sep 11, 2005
Messages
618
Re: Suggestions for upgrading bunk trailer?

Thanks to all that responded. I had searched and read several previous threads (including the linked) but didn't come up with anything much endorsing the "slicks".
I guess maybe I'm over stressing about the bunks but again, if the boat isn't easy to launch, I know it will sit in my driveway all too often. ( My free time comes a few hours at a pop so launch time /effort is a big motivation factor with me.) Anyway, I know I'll get a launch pattern down in just a few trips , it's just a question of adapting that pattern to various ramps. I frequent some very steep /deepwater ramps as well as some that are flat and shallow (i.e. maybe not enough water to wet the bunks at low tides.)

In any case, I'm going to spring for a set of the slicks ( or make some myself.) after I readjust the bunks.
I'm also going to try to fit a couple of urathane keel rollers on the two crossmembers. Not 100% sure if there is enough clearence but I think I can squeeze them under there.
Lastly, I'm going to think about a way to mount a level "gang-plank" to the trailer. My current trailer has such a walkway going right down the center and that allows me to walk out to the end of the trailer without getting my feet wet/needing boots. ( Handy for hauling in cold weather!) I won't be able to center this one due to the v hull /crossmember but I'm thinking I can run one up one side anyway.

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txmntman

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Dec 5, 2007
Messages
108
Re: Suggestions for upgrading bunk trailer?

I have had bunk trailers with and without center rollers. Part of that will depend on your boat (Boston Whalers specifically ask for a center trailer rollers where the bulk of the boat weight will sit). For your aluminum boat, a bunk trailer will work great (I have one with an aluminum trailer). You won't need the strips, but could use them (yes, leave the safety chain attached). I would say use the trailer as is for a season, and then change if you find you need to. I would bet you will not need to change the trailer at all.....just a thought...:cool:
 

reelfishin

Captain
Joined
Mar 19, 2007
Messages
3,050
Re: Suggestions for upgrading bunk trailer?

Myself, I've owned many boats over the years, I've only lately gone to a roller trailer, and that was only since it came with a free boat I picked up on Craigslist. Two of my other boats came with roller trailers. I used bunk trailers for years and never new any different. A roller trailer is nice, but not that big a deal to me. I actually like the way a few of my boats sit on their bunk trailers vs the roller trailers.
Chances are you won't notice any concerns. Like said above, I'd try it and see how it works. You may already have the perfect set up for that boat. A rear keel roller would really only be in order if the bow keel contacts the trailer when loading. If not, it's probably not worth the trouble or cost.
A walking plank is a good idea, especially in colder water. I have them on just about all my trailers that would take them.
 

Wee Hooker

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Sep 11, 2005
Messages
618
Re: Suggestions for upgrading bunk trailer?

All good advice again. I'll chew on it a bit. I guess ALLOT of what I do/don't do depends on how deep teh trailer needs to be to get optimum loading. i.e. If the bunks are submerged , then a roller won't do much. if I find she likes to come up onto a higher trailer, the roller might help. Time will tell I guess. Thanks much!
Dave
 

gmurf

Recruit
Joined
Dec 18, 2008
Messages
1
Re: Suggestions for upgrading bunk trailer?

Slicks work great. Just be careful loading the first couple of times as the boat slides up the hitch mast real quick. On steep ramps I have to leave the motor in idle in gear until I can hook up the bow chain.

I would look into getting two foot guide-on-bunks. They serve two purposes: after clamping onto the trailer frame they can be adjusted to guide the boat into proper position even in crosswinds. They also, after some backing to load, will serve as a guide as to positioning the trailer in the optimum position to load.

As to the walking planks, I went to the home store and got a roll of 3 inch tape. The non-slip type that people put on stair treads. Especially on painted porches in snow/ice country. It's black rubberized sandy on top and adhesives under. Trims with scissors and placed on every place on the tongue that I could put my foot. It makes for an unobtrusive, safe, firm foot surface. Be sure to clean the surface and after cleaned use alcohol to clean again. I do not apply at temps below 70 degrees.
 
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