Just ranting... Appreciate any feedback.
I took my boat out for another test run. It's a 17' Sailfish w/ a 93 88SPL. Started right up, warmed it up, and idled out into the channel. Once in the channel, I throttled up and it wouldn't go over 2500RPM at full throttle. I throttled back to idle and tried a few times more. Each time, it would rev up like it should and then beyond about half throttle it wouldn't develop any more power.
My previous test run a couple of weeks ago, it would just bog right off idle. I did the link and sync procedure from the OMC manual and went for a run today. Since there was an improvement, I messed around on the water with all the adjustments (throttle cam, idle timing, and speed, and WOT timing). Not much luck.
I noticed when I did a really hard turn to the left to head back to the ramp the engine picked up a bit. I then tried pressing the electric primer on the key and the RPM increased by 500. Same if I turned on the manual primer. The other bit is I can't kill the motor be running the primer at idle. I think in the past I have been able to.
Stuff I've tried/verified:
1) replaced water/fuel canister
2) verified no restriction in pulling fuel from tank through separator canister
3) verified primer bulb isn't collapsing. Did notice that when I squeeze the primer bulb hard I'm able to squeeze fuel either backwards to the tank or into the carbs past the carb floats.
4) pulled both carbs, disassembled and cleaned out all passages and jets using wd40, carb cleaner and compressed air. I wasn't able to loosen the two brass screws at the bottom and outside of the bowl. I did the carb clean out early on since the engine wouldn't idle after it had set for a few months. Before sitting, it was running great.
5) used a spark gap tester on all four coils and plenty of spark.
6) used a timing light to check idle and WOT (via the Reeves method) and all cylinders firing.
7) checked plugs and always way too oily. Probably too much time idling on the hose.
8) pulled each plug wire and verified that engine would idle worse without it. When I pulled cyl #1, engine would die! Strange since pulling the other wires would resolve on a really rough idle.
Next Steps:
1) run a test tank w/ new hose and primer bulb.
2) pull carbs and do a full rebuild. I'll need to somehow pull the two brass plug screws from each of the cards. I think the previous owner used locktight or super glue or something else.
3) redo a compression check. I did one last year and the #'s were around 110lbs and the engine was running really well.
4) replace plug wires. I've been doing a lot of pulling and twisting and a couple of the terminals ends needed to be reseated.
5) start looking at a possible ignition issue. The idle is ok, not great, and there is a skip every couple of seconds.
I took my boat out for another test run. It's a 17' Sailfish w/ a 93 88SPL. Started right up, warmed it up, and idled out into the channel. Once in the channel, I throttled up and it wouldn't go over 2500RPM at full throttle. I throttled back to idle and tried a few times more. Each time, it would rev up like it should and then beyond about half throttle it wouldn't develop any more power.
My previous test run a couple of weeks ago, it would just bog right off idle. I did the link and sync procedure from the OMC manual and went for a run today. Since there was an improvement, I messed around on the water with all the adjustments (throttle cam, idle timing, and speed, and WOT timing). Not much luck.
I noticed when I did a really hard turn to the left to head back to the ramp the engine picked up a bit. I then tried pressing the electric primer on the key and the RPM increased by 500. Same if I turned on the manual primer. The other bit is I can't kill the motor be running the primer at idle. I think in the past I have been able to.
Stuff I've tried/verified:
1) replaced water/fuel canister
2) verified no restriction in pulling fuel from tank through separator canister
3) verified primer bulb isn't collapsing. Did notice that when I squeeze the primer bulb hard I'm able to squeeze fuel either backwards to the tank or into the carbs past the carb floats.
4) pulled both carbs, disassembled and cleaned out all passages and jets using wd40, carb cleaner and compressed air. I wasn't able to loosen the two brass screws at the bottom and outside of the bowl. I did the carb clean out early on since the engine wouldn't idle after it had set for a few months. Before sitting, it was running great.
5) used a spark gap tester on all four coils and plenty of spark.
6) used a timing light to check idle and WOT (via the Reeves method) and all cylinders firing.
7) checked plugs and always way too oily. Probably too much time idling on the hose.
8) pulled each plug wire and verified that engine would idle worse without it. When I pulled cyl #1, engine would die! Strange since pulling the other wires would resolve on a really rough idle.
Next Steps:
1) run a test tank w/ new hose and primer bulb.
2) pull carbs and do a full rebuild. I'll need to somehow pull the two brass plug screws from each of the cards. I think the previous owner used locktight or super glue or something else.
3) redo a compression check. I did one last year and the #'s were around 110lbs and the engine was running really well.
4) replace plug wires. I've been doing a lot of pulling and twisting and a couple of the terminals ends needed to be reseated.
5) start looking at a possible ignition issue. The idle is ok, not great, and there is a skip every couple of seconds.
in a week or so.