Re: Which gets better mileage?
Thx 45auto, this was just the input I was looking for below that you posted:
Which gets better mileage?
Read the original posters question:
Quote:
So here is my question:
What type of mileage/fuel burn at various speeds, can I expect from:
You can tell him that at 30 MPH he will burn 10 GPH. Or you can tell him that at 30 MPH he will get 3 MPG. Exact same thing in both cases. If fuel economy is what is important to him, then the info he is interested in is that the Optimax gets about 5 MPG at best cruise, and the Verado gets about 4 MPG at best cruise. Can MPG be determined using GPH and speed? Yes! Can GPH be determined using MPG and speed? Yes! Can speed be determined using MPG and GPH? Yes! It's just a set of variables. No significance to any of them except in relation to what you're interested in.
Expidia says: great to the point response!
TD's response was very helpful too in that the hull of O/B has a different design than the I/O as to why 200-220 O/B vs I/O can have diff MPG burn factors.
So the guy with the 2nd choice of boat design that I found for sale finally called back a few days later (to me this was not good either, many times they are still fixing an issue with the boat). Said it's been for sale since last fall. He can't be in too much of a rush to sell it because it took him several days to return my call. I left my original message that I'll be there the next day to give him a 5k deposit. Usually, when you sell a boat you might only get one call and that's the one who takes it. When I sell a boat I stay glued to me cellphone.
I say 2nd choice because his was the I/O design which would cost me much needed deck space. Big fiberglass boats have the power plant behind the back seat and below deck. I would have taken it and flipped it as soon as I found the model I wanted (O/B mounted off the exterior bracket). But after spring, it becomes a tough time to sell a boat. He had dropped his price from 20,500 down to 18,500 in his next ad. But I looked it up in the used boats book and 18,000 was the average selling price anyway.
For me to flip it fast I'd have to buy it for at least 3k under the average.
I might have tried to talk him down but I had already changed my mind about the I/O design. Also, his ad said it has downrigger plates on the back. That would be OK if he trolled with an auxiliary motor. But I asked him if he did that and he said he just used a trolling plate that hangs over the prop
and he had no issues.
That statement was the deal breaker for me since I'm not touching an I/O that's been trolled at 1-2 mph for hours on end for the past 3-4 years. You can do this with the newer EFI computer controlled outboards as they won't load up like a carbed model. But I use a 9.9 aux or a Minn Kota electric for trolling anyway. I wouldn't troll with a large O/B since I prefer to treat them better.
Lastly, even the seller had commented to me when he knew I had already changed my mind and continue my search for an O/B model, he said if he had it to do over, he loved everything about the boat but he missed having that extra deck space freed up.
Another reason I want the O/B bracket design is that I plan to have a custom enclosure made up that goes all the way to the back of the boat (a camper top style) this will give me an enclosed salon area, when I'm hanging out over night at various marina's during my cruising trips. I won't have to be relegated to a tight cuddy to spend my time.
So my search continues . . . I'm in no rush since I still have the Lund to use. I just put the final coat of black on the props that I painstakenly refinished, yesterday. Installed the no feed back steering. She's all ready now to just ADD THE WATER
