Yamaha 250 Water Pump - Time for replacement?

[242AbacoGV]

Question, I have a Yamaha 250 4 stroke, 2006, 200 Hours on it... What is the typical hour mark to replace the water pump.. Thanks.

 

[scjmc]

Re: Yamaha 250 Water Pump - Time for replacement?

I think annual service is normal. I do mine every year regardless of hours, but I only do 100-150 hours per year. Some people let it go 2 years, but I think every year is what is recommended.

 

[robert graham]

Re: Yamaha 250 Water Pump - Time for replacement?

it depends on how you run the motor(fresh/salt)water, sand, mud, clear fresh water, how many hours, and who you ask. a lot of professionals and boat motor dealers will say get a new pump impeller every year, which has to be a great preventive maintenance plan. my motor is a 1999 Yamaha 90HP and I run in clear fresh water most all the time and I've had the impeller replaced once since I bought it new and the old one looked pretty much like new, so I keep it as a spare. again, depending on how you use the motor, maybe every year or 2 or 3. if I ran a lot of 20 miles off-shore salt water then I'd be doing it every year just to be safe. just my thoughts on this, plenty of other opinions on this subject. Good luck!

 

[242AbacoGV]

Re: Yamaha 250 Water Pump - Time for replacement?

Many thanks.... I just scheduled an appointment to have the Water pump and 2 thermostats replaced.. I plan to do offshore fishing and want to play it safe...

 

[242AbacoGV]

Re: Yamaha 250 Water Pump - Time for replacement?

Ok, got the job done on Friday by a very experienced mechanic over in Morehead City NC. Here was the deal, the water pump was definitely in need of replacement, engine has about 200 hours on it impeller looked more like a rounded legged star rather than the replacement a true star shape, that was from laying up the motor for long periods of time. Secondly, upon checking the oil we found it to be about 1/2 quart over full which pointed us to the thermostats in which we replaced also. One of the thermostats was stuck in the open position causing the engine to run cold, computer says its needs more gas in the cylinders, cylinders cannot burn it all, pushes it through the rings and into the oil. Changed the crankcase oil and wound up changing the lower unit oil.. Just a suggestion that made sense to me. If at all possible, if you flush the motor, use the muffs and a start rather than just the hose flush on the motor. What was told to me is that using the engine flush (no start) causes to thermostats to close (cold water) and you do not get a true flush. In the future I am going with an every other year maintenance schedule for the water pump / thermostats as I will be only putting about 50 hours on the boat a year due to a physical location move of the boat. Thanks for everyone's help.