1996 Evinrude 9.9HP Four Stroke

[tyest02]

I have a 1996 Evinrude 9.9HP Four stroke that I bought used with the boat a couple of years ago. It is my kicker motor that I troll with. My problem is that my starting battery continues to slowly drain throughout the day of trolling. Before I start my engine my lowrance reads around 12.2V. When I start the motor the voltage does not go up it just stays the same for a couple of hours then slowly drops. After about two days my voltage is so low that my electronics shut off. I just replaced the power pack and the stator 2 weeks ago. I was thinking it was going to be the stator but I was wrong. I would think that the only other option would be the rectifier. What is your opinion on it.

Thanks ahead,
Todd

 

[Vic.S]

Re: 1996 Evinrude 9.9HP Four Stroke

It has the round non regulated type of rectifier so can be tested with the aid of a multimeter following Joe Reeves' instructions
http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=190638
BUT if you are using a digital meter use the "diode test" range because they do not necessarily work for testing diodes on the ohms ranges. (Some work on some ranges some dont work at all)

First though check the DC volts between ground and the red wire of the rectifier. If that comes up well above battery volts then be looking for a bad connection.

When you said you replaced the stator did you mean the charge coil. thats different and sparate from the power pack (ignition module) and the stator coil that powers the ignition. They appear to be incorrectly labelled in the parts diagrams. The charge coil is the one that is not present in ropestart engines.

BTW is you run your battery down below 50% of fully charged many times or if you do not recharge it after use you will shorten its life considerably.

 

[tyest02]

Re: 1996 Evinrude 9.9HP Four Stroke

Alright so I checked the rectifier and when I ground the ohm meter to the back of the rectifier and check all the wires individually I get no readings at all. But when I ground to the red wire and check the yellow, and yellow/gray wire I get the same reading in each only in one direction as stated. Is it odd to not get any readings at all in the first part.

Thanks Vic, big help,

Todd

 

[Vic.S]

Re: 1996 Evinrude 9.9HP Four Stroke

If I understand you correctly it sounds as though half of the diodes in your rectifier have failed That is why you get no readings in either direction when you test between the case and the yellow leads.

Not sure if you have a four wire rectifier or a three wire one ... the parts diagram shows a 4 wire type.

Whichever, there is a diode from each yellow wire to the case and a diode from each yellow to the red (that makes 4 or 6 diodes depending upon the type) Each diode should conduct in one direction but not in the other.

If you get no reading either way between the case and the yellows it indicates that both/all three of the diodes connected to the case have blown. You'll then not get a reading either way between the red and the case.

 

[tyest02]

Re: 1996 Evinrude 9.9HP Four Stroke

Ok so my rectifier has the wires that come out with the plug on it. There are three other wires, a red, a gray, and a purple. I was looking online to buy another and i see some of them only have a red and a purple wire. They are both part # 584890. What is the difference.

 

[tyest02]

Re: 1996 Evinrude 9.9HP Four Stroke

To make it easier here is what my old one looks like

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Evin...1100472QQptZBoatQ5fPartsQ5fAccessoriesQ5fGear


And here is what the new one im looking at looks like.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-...1794805QQptZBoatQ5fPartsQ5fAccessoriesQ5fGear

What is the difference. Same part number.

Todd

 

[Vic.S]

Re: 1996 Evinrude 9.9HP Four Stroke

Ah you have a rectifier regulator. Might have spotted that if you had given the model number!

Disregard all comments about testing ... they only apply to the non regulated type.

I have seen this question about the lack of a gray wire before. IIRC the answer is the the new ones do not need it so forget it. Purple wire is the feed to the tachometer and red is the DC positive.

If I am now looking at the right model then all the coils are combined into one stator assembly.

You should be able to check the stator (yellow wires) for continuity and that there is an AC output.

But check the DC output on the red wire. It should read battery volts before the engine is started (or nothing if it is disconnected) and rise once it is started.

You need to prove that there is no output from the rectifier before buying a new one, they cost too many $$ to replace unnecessarily.