please help me 1976 9.9 problems

nick2950

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Hello I Have A 1976 Evinrude 9.9 Hp With The 15 Hp Carb.the Problem Is It Runs Nice Then Gets Warm Sputters And Dies.wont Start Back Up For 15 To 20 Mins I Replaced The Points The Other Day.i Know There Isnt A Water Hole So How Does It Cool?? Please Help Before I Turn Into A Ancor
 

ooldschooll

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Re: please help me 1976 9.9 problems

That should be water cooled. If you don't see water coming out of the exhaust or a tell tell hole your probably overheating it.
 

nick2950

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Re: please help me 1976 9.9 problems

there is a mist and some drips coming from the exaust
 

Daviet

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Re: please help me 1976 9.9 problems

When it stalls, can you put your hand on the cylinder for the count of three? If you can you are probably ok. Another thought, if you have a base gasket blown, it will run for a while and then stall. Try running with the cover off and see if it stalls. You can also keep track of cylinder temp at the same time, just keep touching the cyl head.
 

OptsyEagle

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Re: please help me 1976 9.9 problems

That unit does not have a tell-tale hole for water indication. The pumps operation is observed by a spray that comes out the exhaust hole, in the back, just under the cowl. Note, that nothing observable really comes out until the T-stat opens up. Usually happens about 15 seconds after start up. As the T-stat opens and closes the drizzle of water will increase and decrease. If this is happening, your water pump is working fine.

As the other poster has said, if you can put your hand on the powerhead while in use or just after shut down, then it is not overheating.

Your problem may also be the coils, however I am hesitant to think that both coils would fail in the same way at the same time. Usually what happens with a faulty coil is one cylinder drops out first, indicated by just a loss of power. Since these motors can run quite well on one cylinder, they rarely stop completely when this happens. However, coils do have a tendancy of cutting out when they warm up (when they are defective), hence my reason for pointing them out. If both cylinders are dying at the same time, I might rule out the points as well. That would lead me to a fuel issue (carburetor, air leak, gas tank ventilation) or compression (head gasket perhaps).
 

nick2950

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Re: please help me 1976 9.9 problems

How Would I Check To See If The Head Gasket Is Blown? And I Think Its Overheating Ill Try To Keep My Hand On It And See What Happens.i Know Its Not A Fuel Problem I Have A 15 Hp The Carb Came Off Ill Remove The Coils And Give Them A Try
 

Rick.

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Re: please help me 1976 9.9 problems

When it quits, check to see if you have any spark at either plug. My guess is you don't because these motors run very well on one cylinder. They simply lack power with only on running. I'm thinking you should switch your power pack from the other motor and that will get you going. Remember it was you who said fuel isn't the problem so I am avoiding that road all together. Best of luck. Rick.
One simple thing to check is unplug one of the leads to the kill switch. If it is going bad it would cause a complete shutdown although I doubt if it is a problem. Just something simple to do.
 

nick2950

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Re: please help me 1976 9.9 problems

i dont think there is a power pack on it there is points and coils
 

Rick.

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Re: please help me 1976 9.9 problems

nick2950: Your right about that. Sorry to mislead you. Perhaps one cylinder is getting no spark already and then when the motor heats up the other coil drops out causing the stall. Get yourself a spark tester with an adjustable gap and check for good spark. It should jump 3/8 inch with blue/white snappy spark. If your spark checks out good it may well be gas related. Rick.
 

bktheking

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Re: please help me 1976 9.9 problems

Not carb related, carbs either work well or they don't, they produce symptoms right away, not after 20 minutes. If a carb were the issue it wouldn't idle right or run at high speeds. Check the coils for cracks, these are a points and condensor engine. Once the coils heated up after 20 minutes they would die and wouldn't restart until they cooled off. Coils are cheap enough, just throw them on for preventative maintenance if they have never been changed. Points wouldn't cause this either, when points go there is no spark whatsoever or inconsistent spark. Running and dying after 20 minutes is either everheating which you say is not happening or something in the electronics.
 

LIGHTFOOT

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Re: please help me 1976 9.9 problems

I have an engine like yours. There is a tell-tale hole under the edge of the cowling, its on the left side when facing the engine from the front. Mine was plugged up with mud when I bought it and I had a hard time finding it too. There is a grommet around it. Cleaned mine out with a paper clip!
 

nick2950

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Re: please help me 1976 9.9 problems

Well I Have A Parts Motor That Is The Same And I Took The Water Jacket Apart And There Is A Inlet For Water But No Outlet To A Tattle Tale Hole And Alot Of People Tolled Me That Year Dont Have One So I Know Thats Not The Problem Ill Mess With It Today And See What I End Up With
 

bktheking

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Re: please help me 1976 9.9 problems

I have an engine like yours. There is a tell-tale hole under the edge of the cowling, its on the left side when facing the engine from the front. Mine was plugged up with mud when I bought it and I had a hard time finding it too. There is a grommet around it. Cleaned mine out with a paper clip!

You have an engine made after his then, 74-76 did NOT have the telltale hole, the water sprayed from the mid exhaust hole in the back of the motor.
 

jay mendoza

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Aug 14, 2009
Messages
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Re: please help me 1976 9.9 problems

Some things to check:

Fuel pump OK(take off line to carb while running and look for fuel flow)
Look for oil near the top seal under the breaker cam near point, indicating a bad top main seal.
Be sure your gas can is venting, especially if it is full to the top.
Look for water coming out of the hole at the top rear of the exhaust housing, and often you have to have it in a test tank to see this.
You can remove the thermostat cover and look for a corroded/stuck thermostat, or corroded/clogged cooling passages. It easy to pull the head and check the engine block for corroded water jacket. Remove corrosion carefully using a brill bit and screwdriver as a scraper.

If the impeller is good, and the passages OK, but low or no water flow, the upper water tube grommet where the exhaust pipe bolts on may be bad, causing some of the water to just run out the exhaust and lower unit before it enters the block. You can clamp a small hose onto the copper water pipe with the lower unit(gearcase) removed and connect it to a garden hose using a barb adapter to force water through the cooling system of the engine to see if it will circulate. Remove the thermostat to do this test so you get full flow, and replace it once you confirm you can get good water flow through the engine block.

HTH, Jay
 
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