1992 Mariner 115hp - Regulator Rectifier???

samm835

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My motor is turning over easy, fuel is getting to the motor but its not starting. I was looking at the regulator rectifier and it looks like there are some burned wire, I don't remember this looking this way before.....could this have fouled out and could this be the reason why it is not starting? If not what else should I be looking for on reasons why its not starting? last week the motor started, then it shut off because it wasn't completly warmed up yet. So I went to start it again and nothing. It was acting like the plugs were fouled, so I changed plugs and looked through other things, but at this point I am needing some help on things to check.
 

j_martin

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Re: 1992 Mariner 115hp - Regulator Rectifier???

My motor is turning over easy, fuel is getting to the motor but its not starting. I was looking at the regulator rectifier and it looks like there are some burned wire, I don't remember this looking this way before.....could this have fouled out and could this be the reason why it is not starting? If not what else should I be looking for on reasons why its not starting? last week the motor started, then it shut off because it wasn't completly warmed up yet. So I went to start it again and nothing. It was acting like the plugs were fouled, so I changed plugs and looked through other things, but at this point I am needing some help on things to check.

Did it shut down when you sat down in the seat.........on the kill switch lanyard?

Been there, done that.:D

Connectors on that regulator are quite unreliable. I replace the burnt ones with solder and heat shrink. It has nothing at all to do with spark.

hope it helps
John
 

samm835

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Re: 1992 Mariner 115hp - Regulator Rectifier???

It isn't the wires that connect to the rectifier its the inside of it. Mine has a clear top for some reason so you can see the inside electric board.....and the board looks burned in certain areas. So if the rectifier isn't the reason....waht else should I be looking for? What the stator do, someone suggested that this could also be my problem....is the stator under the flywheel? Is it a pain in butt to get to? Any help would be appreciated.
 

shankforce

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Re: 1992 Mariner 115hp - Regulator Rectifier???

The stator is under the fly wheel and on that model should be easy to remove. I do not think you need a wheel puller for the stator only the trigger is under the pressed wheel. But I would trace back all my wires and check for loose grounds, check batteries and the cables and do a meter check on all of your ignition componets.
 

samm835

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Re: 1992 Mariner 115hp - Regulator Rectifier???

Thanks for your help....I did do a trace of all the wires to make sure nothing was lose(always fun) and came up with nothing. I don't think I am getting fire to my coils. I am also still curious as to what the hell a regulator/rectifier does...like I said I can see the board and it looks like its burned out a little. Whats this think do? Thanks for the help.
 

shankforce

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Re: 1992 Mariner 115hp - Regulator Rectifier???

It trickles power back to your batteries I dont know if you have a voltage regulator but they work a little better at recharging batteries. You should just replace the rectifier they are usally around $20, stator for that will be around $120. I had a voltage regulator blow my stator so replacing the stator and leaving the rectifier might be too risky.
 

krakatoa

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Re: 1992 Mariner 115hp - Regulator Rectifier???

Those engines have a 20amp. fuse. if this one is blow up the engine will not start. hope this helps!
 

j_martin

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Re: 1992 Mariner 115hp - Regulator Rectifier???

The stator is under the fly wheel and on that model should be easy to remove. I do not think you need a wheel puller for the stator only the trigger is under the pressed wheel. But I would trace back all my wires and check for loose grounds, check batteries and the cables and do a meter check on all of your ignition componets.

You should not disassemble the flywheel at the flex plate, as is being advised here. The correct way to remove the flywheel is to pull it at the hub with a special Mercury flywheel puller that threads into the flywheel, and presses firmly but squarely against the crank. The tool also has a piece to protect the crank from crushing.

hope it helps
John
 

j_martin

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Re: 1992 Mariner 115hp - Regulator Rectifier???

It trickles power back to your batteries I dont know if you have a voltage regulator but they work a little better at recharging batteries. You should just replace the rectifier they are usally around $20, stator for that will be around $120. I had a voltage regulator blow my stator so replacing the stator and leaving the rectifier might be too risky.

That aluminum box with the potted electronics and 5 or 6 wires hanging out of it is a voltage regulator. It should not look burnt in any way.

Proper testing per the maintenance manual is the surest way to limit the cost of parts.

hope it helps
John
 

sschefer

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Re: 1992 Mariner 115hp - Regulator Rectifier???

The voltage regulator/rectifier is not part of the ignition circuit and won't keep your engine from starting. However, it is designed to blow if the battery cables are reversed. In theory this protects the more expensive switchbox.

It doesn't always blow fast enough so if that happened you may have damaged the switchbox.

Stator spike can blow a rectifier.

The only way get on track with this problem is to do the basic resistance checks and come back with the details. The procedure is in the Seloc manuals with the specs for your system.
 

Jeff_G

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Re: 1992 Mariner 115hp - Regulator Rectifier???

The voltage regulator/rectifier is not part of the ignition circuit and won't keep your engine from starting. However, it is designed to blow if the battery cables are reversed. In theory this protects the more expensive switchbox.

It doesn't always blow fast enough so if that happened you may have damaged the switchbox.

Stator spike can blow a rectifier.

The only way get on track with this problem is to do the basic resistance checks and come back with the details. The procedure is in the Seloc manuals with the specs for your system.

Steve stop with the BS enough is enough. You have no idea what you are talking about!
First you say it is not part of the ignition system which is correct, then you say it is designed to blow if the cables are reversed. While it will damage the rectifier it isn't "designed" to do that nor designed to do it to protect the switchbox, which IS part of the ignition system. You can say it isn't part of the system and then say it protects it. Poppycock.
Stator spike? What are you talking about??????
Before you post at least know how the systems work.
 

j_martin

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Re: 1992 Mariner 115hp - Regulator Rectifier???

The voltage regulator/rectifier is not part of the ignition circuit and won't keep your engine from starting. However, it is designed to blow if the battery cables are reversed. In theory this protects the more expensive switchbox.

It doesn't always blow fast enough so if that happened you may have damaged the switchbox.

Stator spike can blow a rectifier.

The only way get on track with this problem is to do the basic resistance checks and come back with the details. The procedure is in the Seloc manuals with the specs for your system.

There is absolutely no connection between the switchboxes and the battery. I've been in electronics and electrical engineering for 40 years, and I have no idea what a stator spike would be. I call BS.

Now, to the problem.
The stator has coils in it, called charge coils, that provide power to the switchboxes. There are 2 sets of them. It has another coil in it that provides power to the battery charging system. That's the yellow wires.

You can do some ohmmeter testing to find radical problems in the stator. If a coil is open, or shorted to ground, it is definitely bad. This testing cannot find a single shorted turn, or a low point short to ground in a charge coil. Both of these faults will cause the system involved to fail.

Tests at cranking speed with a DVA will find the above hidden faults. That would be the next step in this process. Believe me, a DVA and a manual are a good investment at this time, and will be paid for by preventing just one mistep that installs an unneeded part.

If you find everything has gone to pot at once, the most likely reason is a mechanical strike by a loose magnet, loose stator mounting, or a bad top main bearing. If you suspect that, you can pull the flywheel (properly please) and look for mechanical damage. There should be no sign of contact anywhere on the stator. If you find mechanical damage, you've found the problem.

hope it helps
John
 

samm835

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Re: 1992 Mariner 115hp - Regulator Rectifier???

J_Martin, and all, I appreciate your help.
I have pulled the boat out of the water to start testing the motor with a tester. I do have a manual and I have started to read it to do the right testing and the correct ways. I do need to go a buy a tester/meter this weekend. I will first test the regulator....then move towards the Stator...once I read and figure out how to correctly move the flywheel. This will show my stupidity....but you said I needed a special tool to pull the flywheel? If the cost of this tool is expensive....would it just be best to take to a mechanic and have them pull it? Thanks for the help always appreciated.
 

j_martin

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Re: 1992 Mariner 115hp - Regulator Rectifier???

Puller is 20 - 30 bucks on eBay. 'bout 50 from Murkery. A fine thread bolt and a bent piece of metal makes it an engine lifting lug.

If you buy one from eBay, be sure the bolt is fine threaded. It's the difference between a hard twist and sheer frustration if the flywheel is tight.
 

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Jeff_G

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Re: 1992 Mariner 115hp - Regulator Rectifier???

Kudo to J Martin. 100% correct

You don't need to remove the flywheel to test the stator nor the trigger. You will have to remove the flywheel if you need to replace them. You MAY find a shop that will pull the flywheel for nothing, particularly if you buy the parts there. I pull them all the time, never a charge.

The DVM you need will have peak reading voltage capability or a adapter. Usually a Fluke type meter. Check on this web site; http://www.cdielectronics.com/
 

sschefer

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Re: 1992 Mariner 115hp - Regulator Rectifier???

There is absolutely no connection between the switchboxes and the battery. I've been in electronics and electrical engineering for 40 years, and I have no idea what a stator spike would be. I call BS.

John, I understand your miss-understanding. The connection is ground. Trace it backwards and you'll see why Seloc and Clymer both make reference to the rectifer/regulator and it blowing to protect the switchbox. What is wrong is that Seloc and Clymer belive it to be some sort of genius design. It's not it just happens to be where it is in the circut and because it is, it potentialy blows (opens) and protects the switchbox if the battery cables are accidently reversed.

This is why I always ask folks if they reversed the battery cables. The rectifiers don't always fail open, sometimes they short and when that happens, voltage is induced into the charge coils of the stator. I think you can follow it to the switchbox from there via inductance. Think two coils in close proximity one producing EMF the other absorbing it, (a transformer).

I understand you have a vast knowledge of electronics so I hope I'm not offending you with this low level explanation. It's not intended to be that way. Sometimes my writing is not interpreted the way I intend it. I should use more smiles:)

I'm heading out for a couple of weeks of fishing.:):):):) Talk to you when I get back.
 
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