Hi
-Check the compression!! Don't consider it unless you do.
-Check for external oil leaks on the rear of the VRO pump.
-look for calcium deposits at base of powerhead which can suggest cracked block from poor winter storage
-check for bent prop shaft by rotating prop by hand in nuetral
-observe starter drive gear (excessive wear can mean starting issues)
-Listen for the warning horn when key first turned on
-look for discolored paint on heads
-drain a little lube out of the gear box and check for water in oil
-take for a road-test and check for max RPM (4800-5500)
-take for a road-test and check for overheat warnings
Good Luck!
Cheers![]()
Unless you can test it out and verify all of the above, you should consider it a parts motor and set your expectations accordingly. Many well-intentioned sellers inadvertently sell you their problems.
A meter on the battery is fine to check charging system. Charge the battery and check running voltage at 1500-2000 rpm, should be somewhere around 13.8 to 14.2 volts.
I'd do a continuity check on the rectifier first. Chances are it's blown.
Unregulated rectifiers have a triangular base with a cylinder on top, at least 2 yellow wires and one red.
On V4 engines the water cooled regulated rectifiers are mounted at the top of the engine block, between the cylinder banks.
Give the model number of your motor for better help.
Looks like you have a 1980 model Johnson 115 with tilt and trim, electric start, and a long shaft (20").
The model number (J115TLCSA) signifies:
J - Johnson
115 - hp
T - tilt/trim, electric start
L - 20" shaft
CS - 80
A - model run
If the space where the L is located is blank, it's a 15" shaft.
To determine the year, use the acronym "INTRODUCES"
I=1, N=2, T=3, R=4, etc.
Had a 1976 Johnson 115hp, but I don't know what changes were made between '76 and '80, so I'd hate to steer you wrong. I can tell you that it was a great motor. Never had any problems with it, and put lots of hours on it.
Good luck,
JTB