Re: cant get to idle
These engines will run when all the components are in good shape and correctly adjusted. And of course... good compression. Do yourself a favor- BUY A MANUAL and follow the directions for service. Listen to what the guys in this forum tell you, weigh the info and see for yourself, we are trying to help you. There must be an understanding of general mechanics or this info will do no good. Here's my suggestions:
#1, Check your compression and record the findings. Look for variances of greater than 10%.
#2, open the magneto and adjust the point tension, gap and dwell angle to correct spec. Be sure to clean the rotor cap well and replace any cracked parts.
#3, follow the manual and adjust the carburetor to ignition timing both primary and secondary. This synchronizes the timing with the fuel. Idle screws should be out 1-1 1/2 turns to start. Assure gaskets are tight and not leaking air or fuel.
#4 If the WP impeller, housing or plates needs work then replace them but a bad WP is going to cause/cost you big trouble.
#5, think back into your history of owning this engine. Was it ever overheated where you couldn't put your hand on the motor? That's important because the pegs that hold the reed blocks in place are plastic. Once overheated, they melt now they're going to be a problem holding the reeds in place as they vibrate. That may be your problem as I read your posts. If you're seeing gas spit back out the carbs when running that is a good indication of a reed problem.
#6, use a good 50-1 tcw rated outboard oil. 25-1 is for older 2 stroke engines when they used 30wt motor oil. New technology, better oils, better protection.
#7, make your final adjustments in the water. Setting it all up can be done on the muffs.
Good luck.